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deathwolf669

What’s the difference other than the price?

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I think the first layer is the key to getting paint to stick well. Brown Liner, unthinned, seems to be your best bet, and then you can do whatever you want over it without a problem. If even that's rubbing off, then I don't know what to tell you.

 

 

Walnut brown is another one that's become rather notorious for not sticking well to Bones.

 

 

 

Yep, and the latter is how the former was discovered.  I'd been telling people to use Walnut Brown, and several people mentioned that it wasn't sticking very well.  At this point I had begun using brown liner in place of walnut brown to do the same job, because I had much more liner than walnut.  I tested the two against each other, and it turned out the walnut brown and some other colours did indeed have poor adhesion quality - which meant I had been giving people bad and frustrating advice.

 

Since then enough people have reported in on the other liner colours to vouch for their robustness.  So basecoat in a liner colour, paint over that, and then the paintjobs should be near on indestructible.  There's lots of paint that doesn't give any trouble, but it's like cleaning the Bones before painting them.  If even only 1 in 20 is going to be a problem, or less, it's better to be sure of it than to find out the hard way.

 

So clean Bones with dish soap and water, basecoat with a reaper liner, and that should head off any issues.  If it does not, and this applies to anybody reading, please let us on the board know.  See if we can figure out why. 

Edited by buglips*the*goblin
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The vast majority of the paint I use is Vallejo Game Color (the rest being Reaper MSP), and I haven't had any problems with the paint rubbing off of Bones.  I don't use primer or the Brown Liner method that others have mentioned, though sometimes I have to use a couple of coats to get a full basecoat to stick (particularly with thinned-down paint).

 

Definitely make sure to wash the figures with soap and water (and thoroughly dry) like Buglips mentioned; I've noticed a difference in the way most of the figures feel before and after doing this, so it's a good bet that there's some mold release or other residue on the figures that could easily interfere with paint adhesion.

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When I first got my box o' Bones I checked the all against the list and sorted them into baggies. While doing that skin on my hands felt peculiar, a little slippery, a little ... I don't know, subtle and waxy or silicon-y. I would guess there is at least some mold release residue on the figures.

 

A good washing doesn't hurt. I like to use dish soap and a toothbrush until the figures squeak like clean tupperware.

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The spider was painted in a reaper blood black, my dear barmaid had some non reaper blues and some reaper blues. GW goblin green works pretty well thinned a tiny bit as does their orkhide shade. Now that you mention it I was using walnut brown on those orc boots.

Edited by EvilJames
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Ok, I repainted my bats that were used as an example in the first couple posts of the thread... mostly because I was embarrassed by my horrible drybrusing. 

 

Here is what they look like now.

post-4341-0-90152800-1399596361_thumb.jpg
 
post-4341-0-13741000-1399596375_thumb.jpg

 

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Has there been any changes made to the casting process or selection process since KS1?  I love bones because there are 1/3rd of the price and I don't have to carry them around like Faberge eggs.  But recently have working on some resin minis and forgot how much better the sharper edges look. 

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There haven't been any changes to the casting process that I'm aware of but then I don't work for Reaper either. You can't compare resin miniatures to BONES though. Resin does have a sharper edge and probably holds more detail. The trade off being a mini that can be pretty fragile in some respects as compared to BONES which has good detail and is virtually indestructible, at least from a miniatures point of view. Oh and let's not forget the cost of those resin minis. 

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Based on what I saw of Bones2, it seemed like they did some reworking of existing models to better suit the material. Most of the minis are not exact copies of the metal counter parts, and those that are exact copies are the thicker, less detailed ones which likely wouldn't have issues with the casting process. My impression was that Reaper learned what works best for the PVC molds and what doesn't and used that to improve the sculpts for this KS.

 

Again, this is just my impression of what happened. Goodness knows I'm not Reaper staff and know nothing of their inner workings or whatnot.

 

But also keep in mind that Bones can hold some remarkable details. Yeah, some of them end up soft, but then you'll come across a guy with extremely fine etchings on his sword and be all like "holy fine print batman!"

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I would have to assume they learned a bit from the first batch, as you would expect. If it turns out bones aren't the best for some models, there are still plenty of models that it's great for, and still allows us all to acquire vast piles of miniatures at a good price, saving our dollars for the small, detailed ones we really want in metal.

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The biggest difference to me is that the surface takes on a slight ripple in Bones.   Its barely noticeable but it makes good NMM really hard to accomplish. 

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