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revloc8

Noob (that's me!) needs help with mold lines...

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So I broke down and got back into the hobby after 15+ years (life was so much easier in high school), and got Bones 1, and a bunch of other figs on KS. I'm really glad I decided to get back into painting cuz it's just so much fun. However, I've gotta say that mold lines are driving me crazy. I don't recall that being an issue for me years ago, so maybe I've become more picky? I dunno.

 

So I do my initial cleaning with a hobby knife, and found that there were some knooks and crannies that I just couldnt do with my knife. So I got some needle files, but I think the grit must be too high cuz I feel like they just scrape my minis terribly. So I've decided to buy some sanding needles to see if they are better. These are the ones I'm looking at:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Albion-Alloys-Coarse-150-Grit-Sanding-Needles-8-344-/331106300338?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item4d177931b2

 

I've got two questions: how low of grit should I be using? 150? 240? 320?

 

Secondly, how long should a set of sanding needles last? I've got several hundred minis to clean and paint, and I live in South Korea, so its not like I can just go down to the local craft store for more. Will 8 be enough? Or should I get two packs?

 

Thanks in advance for helping, and thanks to everyone for all the awesome guides, advice, and other goodies you've contributed on these forums. There's so much good stuff, it's a little overwhleming :)

 

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I'd recommend two packs, but I'm no help with the grit. I just scrape off as much as I can with my hobby knife. BONES aren't meant to be showpieces, they're meant to fill out large quantities of minis on the cheap. (Or maybe I've become less picky over time.)

 

My wife is Korean, so I'll ask her about hobby stores. If you PM me a more specific location, I can probably get more specific information out of her.

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I have the 320 grit (white) ones that they work really well on bones--though you'll want some tweezers to help pull off the loosened plastic. I'd get those and the one right above to clean off and the smooth out mold lines if you really want them gone.

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I use a sharp knife to get rid of the worst of them and ignore the rest. I'm ok with Bones having mold lines visible, same as plastic gaming models.

 

I've tried the sanding needles, they're ok but the tips get bendy and not-sandy pretty quickly and it's tough to use the thicker shaft part to get into the mold lines that need them.

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I find those sanding needles work alright, but I've had to cut them with old clippers and the like to get the maximum use out of them.  I ended up getting a set of really tiny metal files which I like much better.  The ones I have are no. 2 in size, also known as 2 x 100 and are 4 inches in length.  Some combination of those search terms should find you suitable ones.

Edited by Nathaniel

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Jeweler's engraver. $10 at Michael's before coupon.

 

Otherwise, I've been using the hobby knife and jeweler's files, particularly the semi-circle one with a flat other side, sorta like these:

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v4/1094613458_1/Needle-Files-Jewelers-Diamond-Wood-font-b-Carving-b-font-Craft-Tool-Metal-Glass-font-b.jpg

 

Also, if you basecoat and wash, then the mold lines show up better. But the more you work with Bones, the better you get with finding the mold lines before painting!

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I've got two questions: how low of grit should I be using? 150? 240? 320?

 

Secondly, how long should a set of sanding needles last? I've got several hundred minis to clean and paint, and I live in South Korea, so its not like I can just go down to the local craft store for more. Will 8 be enough? Or should I get two packs?

 

 

150 grit is too heavy to use for flash clean-up on Bones figs.  You can use 240 grit to knock off larger chunks like plugs/vents, but 320 will work just fine for most seams.

 

It's hard to estimate how long sanding needles will last - it's all a matter of how must sanding you need to do.  If I were you, I'd get some extra packs - it's not like they'll go bad if you don't use them right away.  Also, you might want to try and track down some emory boards - they can be found at most pharmacies/department stores/etc. - to use as sanders.  They're cheap, easy to cut to whatever size you need, and disposable.

 

The Egg

Edited by Egg of Coot

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Cross hatched files are not great for Bones, but diamond files can be used. It works best to file in one direction (say, left to right), and then very gently file off the little gribblies that are left behind by moving in the other direction. And to use soft pressure, period. 

 

A knife is going to give the best results, and a scalpel blade works even better than a hobby knife blade. I think it stays sharper longer, too, though I haven't tested that as much as yet. Exacto blades seemed to start getting dull after 3-4 Bones for me. The finer scalpel blade also makes it easier to control.

 

I've used blue and white sanding files on Bones. Assuming that the brand I used had the same grit. Both worked fine, blue is probably all you need if you can buy just one type. You'll still get a few gribblies and need to use the sand softly in an opposite direction technique. I don't know how many packs to estimate that you'd need, but they do wear out, so probably more than one.

 

I pretty much do what you're talking about - knife where I can use it, sanding needles in sharp curves and the like.

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      To demonstrate the effectiveness of the Brush-On Sealer, I applied several tools to the bottom of a Bones Purple Worm to scratch and gouge it. The picture on the left shows the surface following a wash of paint to make the damage easier to spot. The picture on the right shows the same figure after I applied three coats of Brush-On Sealer, two coats of white paint and the same paint wash. There are still a few areas of damage apparent, but the majority of the surface is smooth and ready to paint. (And I could easily apply another coat or two to the problem areas.) As you can see from the text in the middle, the Brush-On Sealer will also fill in some detail, so it is best not to use more than one coat on areas of intricate sculpted detail.
       
       
      Removing Paint from a Bones Figure
       
      Sometimes painting a figure doesn’t go exactly as planned. If you would like to strip the paint from a Bones figure so you can start from scratch to paint it another way, just drop it into a dish of Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush and it is ready to paint again. Some paint colours may leave a stain on the Bones material, but should not leave any texture or affect subsequent layers of paint. Simple Green in an eco-friendly cleaner sold in most hardware stores and some grocery stores. Brake fluid also works, though is a much more toxic material.
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