Jump to content

ub3r_n3rd

Renault, Paladin of Iomedae (Duke Gerard)

Recommended Posts

He's worked out alright in the end, eh?

 

The only thing I would suggest (if you are wanting to add anything at this point, after seeing the WIP I understand if you want to have him hit the table and call it good.) is to add some more contrast to the gold areas.  I especially like his face, cloak, and shield.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am "happy enough" and quite honestly tired of working on him and ready to go to something else. I spent almost as much time on him as I did on a couple of my better (in my opinion) figures such as Aiwen and Logen who had elaborate bases to go with them.

 

Guess I'm not opposed to a brown wash on his gold parts to add more contrast though lol :upside: . Those are just straight up Antique Gold and New Gold w/o any blending, I got lazy there...

 

Thanks for the complements on his face, cloak, and shield. Those are definitely the parts I'm most proud of. The shield came out really nicely with the TMM and after trying both TMM and NMM, I've come to the conclusion that I MUCH prefer the TMM look and will be using that going forward.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Horrible work (or not).  :upside:

 

I just felt like being a bad person, so there you go  :devil:

 

(Being serious now, I love the cloak. Your blending there is great. As a first NMM piece it is excellent, and the TMM looks quite nice, even if lacking contrast. Wash heavily with sepia the golden bits and then drybrush with gold again -my favourite wargame recipe is actually bronze, wash with sepia, then drybrush gold, then touch up shiny spots with silver- and you will be surprised how much 3D it will look)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Willen  :upside:

 

Friendly harassment is fine with me, I also appreciate the honest critiques from everyone on here. 

 

I guess I wanted the TMM to be more subtle, I did have it at a higher contrast to begin with, but it just didn't look good to me so I blended back in some of the mid-highlight to take down the highest highlight. For the shield I used True Silver, Black, and White and just mixed a whole palette with those 3 colors, added in some water and drying retarder to allow myself time to wet blend and felt like it came out looking how I wanted it.

 

I know a lot of people say/think it should go lighter, but I just wasn't feeling that bright bright white/silver I had on there. Also, that shield is massive and really hard to tackle for someone like me who just started with these techniques, can't say I don't try and experiment, love to jump into everything in this hobby with both feet.  ^_^

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am watching things with new eyes lately... and the thing is, you don't need to do a big area of brightest highlights. We tend to believe that "darker" shapes go with lower highlights... and the truth is that darker shapes have "smaller" highlights!

 

For example, my wife was watching Criminal Minds the other day and this guy was in a dungeon or cell or whatever, full dark with a little light. The face was all mostly black, but the tiniest spot of highest light was pure white. The size of the transitions and the tiny little dot of white made all the difference.

 

What I am saying is that a simple lining with pure silver, or a couple of dots at the points of maximum reflection can do wonders on a TMM. Like in my dwarf's kneepad for the diorama, if you look for the thread. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found that in the reaper paint line the Tarnished brass makes a better gold than their gold paints.  I used it as a base and highlighted it with antique/new gold and it works alot better.  Brown wash at the end of course...

Just an idea you might want to experiment with if you are only "happy enough"

Edited by Bane Of Humanity
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll dig up your thread again Willen and take a look at his kneepad. 

 

Bane - I think I have Tarnished Brass actually. I'll take a look at using it the next time. For this figure the last touch-up I'll do is probably the brown wash on those gold bits to add some more contrast and call it finished completely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, a brown wash on that gold will make a huge difference.  I'm also not sure if the grey stone base works with there being so much grey on him already, but I can see that with the red cloak it would be hard to come up with a color that complements well.  (I sort of had the same problem with Trista, soooo much grey and red.) 

 

Definitely he's "good enough", and I totally relate to that mentality!  ^_^

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, brass with actual golden highlights is what I was talking about. A darker, more orange shade of metallic as the base for actual gold works better for me too.

 

Let me see if I can dig out some pic of my TMM...

 

Take this guy:

mini7.JPG

 

Depth of shadows is Black wash many times on the base of Oily Steel, until the shine of the metallic paint is dulled quite a bit (the shadow of a metal should not be registered as "bright", and that is an issue with metallic paint of course). Then the top highlight is a very very bright Pure Silver paint. Check the tip of the axe (most right of the pic, the edge downwards). The whole tip looks dark, but the thin silver edge gives it definition and contrast.

 

Hope this helps!

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I'm also not sure if the grey stone base works with there being so much grey on him already, but I can see that with the red cloak it would be hard to come up with a color that complements well.  (I sort of had the same problem with Trista, soooo much grey and red.) 

 

I wouldn't have picked it myself either, but I asked the guy who I painted up the figure for and he wanted him "on cobblestones as the Paladin is from a large city" so I made tri-colored cobblestones (grey, light-grey, and green) and used the artwork that he provided me for reference to paint up the red/gold/silver of the figure itself. Usually I try to give the feel/look of the figure I paint as close as possible to what someone in my group has requested since it's a custom figure for their character in our Pathfinder game.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I made a few touchups for the gold with brown wash. I'll update original post with new pics tomorrow morning!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am watching things with new eyes lately... and the thing is, you don't need to do a big area of brightest highlights. We tend to believe that "darker" shapes go with lower highlights... and the truth is that darker shapes have "smaller" highlights!

 

For example, my wife was watching Criminal Minds the other day and this guy was in a dungeon or cell or whatever, full dark with a little light. The face was all mostly black, but the tiniest spot of highest light was pure white. The size of the transitions and the tiny little dot of white made all the difference.

 

What I am saying is that a simple lining with pure silver, or a couple of dots at the points of maximum reflection can do wonders on a TMM. Like in my dwarf's kneepad for the diorama, if you look for the thread. 

^^^

This!  Understanding this has made a huge difference in how I tackle highlights on dark objects and shadows on light objects.  The shadows in the creases on a white shirt are almost black, but they transition to black over a VERY small area.  The highlight on black hair goes all the way to white, but, as I learned from Doug, over a very small area.  Being able to transition from one extreme to another in a small space smoothly is what I'm working on now.

 

I love the reds you did here (was excited to hear you shaded with green! I've got to try that!) and the shield...although I do agree some glints of a brighter color would make it pop more.  Nevertheless, a fearless and successful NMM/TMM attempt! 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your C&C Heidi! Totally going to be experimenting more with the dark/light especially when it comes to metal as I have like "20" other figures that are going to need the metal bits done nicely. Smooth and natural transitions are harder than they look that's for sure. It's something I'm working on as well. No matter our skill levels we are all still learning.

 

Yep, I got the red shading with dark green glaze and green shading with dark red glaze from Willen and Dontfear. It REALLY works so I pass it on to everyone else who works with those colors, I also pass along the highlighting of red isn't white added to the red as that makes pink, but rather adding different orange colors to get the right lighter shade of red that you want.

 

Again, to everyone I really appreciate your feedback, it's invaluable and helps me keep growing as a painter as I delve further into this wonderful hobby!  ^_^

 

Edit to add:

 

I updated the pics of the original post to reflect the added brown wash/gold dry-brushing I did to him last night. He's now done.

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Cicciopiu
      Hello forum family, wanna show you my last work: Sister Hazel.
      Was aiming to a realistic look,  she came out cartoonish  (as always)...
      Had some problems painting the bottles and had to paint it twice cause at first I've inverted the shadows and it looked like Windows XP desktop image -.-
      Still no good, but at least it look like bottles  Same problem with the googles.
      I'm happy with the blood splat and the dirty look, that's probably the only part I'm happy with.
      Anyway:



      Every advise is suuuuper welcome (please!)
    • By Maledrakh
      Mat and Pat of the City Guard. Or whatever Reaper calls these minis. So far the only names I have for them is Bones 4 Core set #14 and #15.
      STOP PRESS: Upon actually checking the internets, it seems that they are already available cast in metal, and called "City Guard (2)". A no brainer, really. They are quite obviously just that.
       

      I think I should have done the edging on the lower parts of the tabards differently, the blacklining did not turn out well at all. Looks better unmagnified IRL though.
       

      'Alt raht there Guv'ner. You're not gettin' in 'ere dressed like that!
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
      B4Core #14 and #15 City Guard
      Reaper Miniatures, Bones 4 KS 2017
      Sculpted by Bobby Jackson
      Bonesium PVC.
      30mm round lipped base
      should be available from reapermini.com some time in the future
       
       
    • By 72moonglum
      So I have finally painted my first Bones Black figures, Juliana the Herbalist and it really was a very nice experience, far better than painting the normal Bones white squishy material. The detail is far crisper and cleaner and this figure was just really nice, not really a warrior or adventurer running around with sword or staff, just hanging out in her garden.  Those two little balls on her sides I thought originally were hedgehogs, but I think they must have just been pine cones.
      Anyway, enjoy!
    • By Maledrakh
      In the grand scheme of things, this Ogre Palace Guard proxy for Kings of War Vanguard turned out to be a Half-Ogre Fighter when I googled it.
      Number 4 on the Bones 4 core set graphic, but no official code as of yet.
       
      B4Core #4

      The casual, brute strength on display straight-arming that shield like that!
      As you can see, I had problems with the gradient on the shield. Not really satisfied with that at all.
      He is about the size of an older style Ogre. I rebased him on a 40mm round I printed out.
       

      The armour is thick, and the shield is broad. Weak at the neck, and under the arm ...and behind the legs!
       
      I wonder if the upper parts of the chest, between the plackart and the gorget, are meant to be bare flesh and not armour? It would probably look wierd if I painted it like that though.
       
      B4Core #4 Half-Ogre Fighter
      Reaper Miniatures, Bones 4 KS 2017
      Sculpted by Bobby Jackson
      Bonesium PVC.
      40mm round lipped base
      should be available from reapermini.com some time in the future
    • By Hack Mini Painter
      It's all finished. The grass came in, and I finally finished the sword to my liking. For more pics click here.
       
       
       
       


       
       
       
      Thanks for looking,
      HMP
       
       
  • Who's Online   31 Members, 2 Anonymous, 167 Guests (See full list)

×