Jump to content

Recommended Posts

He's worked out alright in the end, eh?

 

The only thing I would suggest (if you are wanting to add anything at this point, after seeing the WIP I understand if you want to have him hit the table and call it good.) is to add some more contrast to the gold areas.  I especially like his face, cloak, and shield.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I am "happy enough" and quite honestly tired of working on him and ready to go to something else. I spent almost as much time on him as I did on a couple of my better (in my opinion) figures such as Aiwen and Logen who had elaborate bases to go with them.

 

Guess I'm not opposed to a brown wash on his gold parts to add more contrast though lol :upside: . Those are just straight up Antique Gold and New Gold w/o any blending, I got lazy there...

 

Thanks for the complements on his face, cloak, and shield. Those are definitely the parts I'm most proud of. The shield came out really nicely with the TMM and after trying both TMM and NMM, I've come to the conclusion that I MUCH prefer the TMM look and will be using that going forward.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Horrible work (or not).  :upside:

 

I just felt like being a bad person, so there you go  :devil:

 

(Being serious now, I love the cloak. Your blending there is great. As a first NMM piece it is excellent, and the TMM looks quite nice, even if lacking contrast. Wash heavily with sepia the golden bits and then drybrush with gold again -my favourite wargame recipe is actually bronze, wash with sepia, then drybrush gold, then touch up shiny spots with silver- and you will be surprised how much 3D it will look)

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Willen  :upside:

 

Friendly harassment is fine with me, I also appreciate the honest critiques from everyone on here. 

 

I guess I wanted the TMM to be more subtle, I did have it at a higher contrast to begin with, but it just didn't look good to me so I blended back in some of the mid-highlight to take down the highest highlight. For the shield I used True Silver, Black, and White and just mixed a whole palette with those 3 colors, added in some water and drying retarder to allow myself time to wet blend and felt like it came out looking how I wanted it.

 

I know a lot of people say/think it should go lighter, but I just wasn't feeling that bright bright white/silver I had on there. Also, that shield is massive and really hard to tackle for someone like me who just started with these techniques, can't say I don't try and experiment, love to jump into everything in this hobby with both feet.  ^_^

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I am watching things with new eyes lately... and the thing is, you don't need to do a big area of brightest highlights. We tend to believe that "darker" shapes go with lower highlights... and the truth is that darker shapes have "smaller" highlights!

 

For example, my wife was watching Criminal Minds the other day and this guy was in a dungeon or cell or whatever, full dark with a little light. The face was all mostly black, but the tiniest spot of highest light was pure white. The size of the transitions and the tiny little dot of white made all the difference.

 

What I am saying is that a simple lining with pure silver, or a couple of dots at the points of maximum reflection can do wonders on a TMM. Like in my dwarf's kneepad for the diorama, if you look for the thread. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found that in the reaper paint line the Tarnished brass makes a better gold than their gold paints.  I used it as a base and highlighted it with antique/new gold and it works alot better.  Brown wash at the end of course...

Just an idea you might want to experiment with if you are only "happy enough"

Edited by Bane Of Humanity
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll dig up your thread again Willen and take a look at his kneepad. 

 

Bane - I think I have Tarnished Brass actually. I'll take a look at using it the next time. For this figure the last touch-up I'll do is probably the brown wash on those gold bits to add some more contrast and call it finished completely.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, a brown wash on that gold will make a huge difference.  I'm also not sure if the grey stone base works with there being so much grey on him already, but I can see that with the red cloak it would be hard to come up with a color that complements well.  (I sort of had the same problem with Trista, soooo much grey and red.) 

 

Definitely he's "good enough", and I totally relate to that mentality!  ^_^

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, brass with actual golden highlights is what I was talking about. A darker, more orange shade of metallic as the base for actual gold works better for me too.

 

Let me see if I can dig out some pic of my TMM...

 

Take this guy:

mini7.JPG

 

Depth of shadows is Black wash many times on the base of Oily Steel, until the shine of the metallic paint is dulled quite a bit (the shadow of a metal should not be registered as "bright", and that is an issue with metallic paint of course). Then the top highlight is a very very bright Pure Silver paint. Check the tip of the axe (most right of the pic, the edge downwards). The whole tip looks dark, but the thin silver edge gives it definition and contrast.

 

Hope this helps!

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

 I'm also not sure if the grey stone base works with there being so much grey on him already, but I can see that with the red cloak it would be hard to come up with a color that complements well.  (I sort of had the same problem with Trista, soooo much grey and red.) 

 

I wouldn't have picked it myself either, but I asked the guy who I painted up the figure for and he wanted him "on cobblestones as the Paladin is from a large city" so I made tri-colored cobblestones (grey, light-grey, and green) and used the artwork that he provided me for reference to paint up the red/gold/silver of the figure itself. Usually I try to give the feel/look of the figure I paint as close as possible to what someone in my group has requested since it's a custom figure for their character in our Pathfinder game.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I am watching things with new eyes lately... and the thing is, you don't need to do a big area of brightest highlights. We tend to believe that "darker" shapes go with lower highlights... and the truth is that darker shapes have "smaller" highlights!

 

For example, my wife was watching Criminal Minds the other day and this guy was in a dungeon or cell or whatever, full dark with a little light. The face was all mostly black, but the tiniest spot of highest light was pure white. The size of the transitions and the tiny little dot of white made all the difference.

 

What I am saying is that a simple lining with pure silver, or a couple of dots at the points of maximum reflection can do wonders on a TMM. Like in my dwarf's kneepad for the diorama, if you look for the thread. 

^^^

This!  Understanding this has made a huge difference in how I tackle highlights on dark objects and shadows on light objects.  The shadows in the creases on a white shirt are almost black, but they transition to black over a VERY small area.  The highlight on black hair goes all the way to white, but, as I learned from Doug, over a very small area.  Being able to transition from one extreme to another in a small space smoothly is what I'm working on now.

 

I love the reds you did here (was excited to hear you shaded with green! I've got to try that!) and the shield...although I do agree some glints of a brighter color would make it pop more.  Nevertheless, a fearless and successful NMM/TMM attempt! 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your C&C Heidi! Totally going to be experimenting more with the dark/light especially when it comes to metal as I have like "20" other figures that are going to need the metal bits done nicely. Smooth and natural transitions are harder than they look that's for sure. It's something I'm working on as well. No matter our skill levels we are all still learning.

 

Yep, I got the red shading with dark green glaze and green shading with dark red glaze from Willen and Dontfear. It REALLY works so I pass it on to everyone else who works with those colors, I also pass along the highlighting of red isn't white added to the red as that makes pink, but rather adding different orange colors to get the right lighter shade of red that you want.

 

Again, to everyone I really appreciate your feedback, it's invaluable and helps me keep growing as a painter as I delve further into this wonderful hobby!  ^_^

 

Edit to add:

 

I updated the pics of the original post to reflect the added brown wash/gold dry-brushing I did to him last night. He's now done.

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Metalchaos
      Hello everyone, today is a Pathfinder day. I did my best to paint it as faithfully as possible respecting the original artwork colors. This is the metal version 60136, Aglanda the herald of Razmir sculpted by Bobby Jackson. It's also available in Bones plastic under sku: 89040.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

    • By Paintfully_aware
      Hello again people, I am still working on this boxed set of Innocent bystanders.
      Here we have the maid and some little people, the bug eyed baby is about half the size of my little finger nail. So until i get a magnification solution, will stay a little bit pop eye.
      I tried my best little fella =)
       
       

    • By Paintfully_aware
      Hi there, first post here from me. I am fairly new to the hobby, and have been painting for exactly one year now.
      I am working on the Kullhaven box set so i have characters to rescue in RPG's, the sculpts are great and the faces are full of character.
      I know my photography leaves a lot to be desired, but I am working on it. =)
      The farmer

      Blacksmith

      Beggar

      And the Strumpet, which is just a fantastic word if nothing else.

      Please feel free to share any tips or tricks, I am still very much a beginner.  But I am keen to learn.
    • By R2ED
      Gotta love the weekend.  Time to get caught up on some minis!
       
      This particular mini is sentimental to me.  I had picked them up back in 1990 when I was just finding my way with painting.  Sadly, it would only be a few years before I found sports and other things to occupy my time and left the hobby for 30 years.  
       
      30 years later, though I'm rearing to go!  My parents send these minis to me that they found at the old house and I happily take them.  A few were somewhat painted and a few were only primed.  This is one that was somewhat painted, but nothing I felt reluctant about stripping.  That said, let's get to the painting!
       
      Battle Report!
       
      Wins:
      * Stripped this metal model right down to the bare metal with the ol LA Cleaner.  Holy smokes - that stuff eats paint like a champ.  Leave it in there for a few days and it is practically falling off.  Major win to discover this very inexpensive and effective method.
      * Primed this model with Stynylrez Black and zenithal with DR White ink.  Worked out well, but still have some learning to do with the new airbrush (Badger 105)
      *  The primer and ink dries quickly allowing for work immediately after priming.  Yay!
      *  Once again learning my new training gained from RVE with using white, I figure this tunic would be perfect for a Paladin.  Using dark grey, then mid grey, and finally light grey to a white highlight.  It worked great and looks believable.  However, there is still a bit more blending I could learn going from dark to light.  For this being the 2nd one to test this method on only hours within learning it - Win!
      *  Tested a gradient on the sword.  Since my confidence was high and I was feeling saucy, I wanted to give a gradient a test.  I've often wanted to try doing something else with metal, but this seemed like a nice one to try.  I think the dark to light worked well on the blades.  This is only the first of many steps to getting to NMM, but it's a good start.
      *  Used a aluminum color for the chain mail, then shaded it with GW Drakenshade. I kind of like the blue tint and nice use of it being like a 'blue steel' look.  Dig.  
      *  Going light on metals was definitely the way to go.
       
      Misses:
      * Face still feels a little weak.  Used a Flat Flesh up to Pale Skin with two gradients in between.  It still feels spotty.
      *  With the lips I tried adding some warmth to them with a light red glaze.  Meh...
      *  Swords and dagger after I did them, I realized don't have the same direction in their gradient.  It's a small thing, but once I spotted it, Ican't take my eyes off of it.  Minor detail, but sucks that I didn't catch it earlier.
      *  I am not super happy with the boots/gloves leather . I feel like Ishould have gone with a different leather color.  Not bad, just not great.
      *  The gold coloring on the moons was added after.  I originally had them as a silver color, but it didn't look as good on the skin in silver.  So I swapped the circlet to gold . In doing that Ichanged them all and am not as happy with the gold.  May change back.
       
      This was a really fun one to do.  It's a bit smaller than the other minis because of the older style, but what a trip down memory road to paint it.  
       
      Any thoughts?  Any feedback.  Let me have it!


    • By Metalchaos
      Hello everyone, I'm updating this post with more pictures I took of the Irontongue Duergar Squad I completed recently.
       

       

       

       
      The enlaged ones, side by side.
       

       

       

       

       
      From left to right on the first picture; 03883 Dark Dwarf Irontongue Priest, 03899 Dark Dwarf Smiter, 03898 Dark Dwarf Pounder, 03892 Dark Dwarf Striker.
      All four Dark Heaven Legends models were sculpted by Bobby Jackson.
       

       

       

       

  • Who's Online   23 Members, 2 Anonymous, 34 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...