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shibe

How to hold your mini while painting?

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I use scrap pieces of 1x2 (about 2 x 4 cm dimensional lumber, when you account for the kerf). When cut to around 6"/15cm, they fit my hand well, are big enough to rest my brush hand on as well, and are easy to flip around.

 

Miniatures are normally attached with PVA.

 

For very large figures or figures where I've removed an integral base, I'll put pins in the bottom of the figure and attach them to the painting stick. Not a great sacrifice, since I'd normally have to pin those figures anyway.

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Tamiya paint can or just the cap with double side foam tape. It has held even the heaviest of minis.

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I use wooden spools, or large corks. Since thread doesn't come on wooden spools anymore I have to buy them. I hold them on with hot glue, double sided tape, or poster tack. 

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For small minis (30mm bases usually) I just bluetack them down to an old GW paint pot. For larger stuff I hot-glue it to a larger jar or pot, usually something that held hair product or face cream or something I steal from my wife. Hotglue is strong enough to hold heavy minis down but also peels off easily when I'm done. 

 

I do base everything before I prime/paint though, if I was the sort to paint stuff off-base I would drill a pin into it and hold it in my pin-drill to paint.

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If it's big enough to be an issue, I'll pin it even if I'm keeping the integral base. I do need a new system for bigger models because my current project is very tippy and has already fallen over several times and chipped three times. For now I lay it on a sheet of foam.

 

I generally pin to champagne corks, the flared base is nice for stability vs a thin wine cork (and I like champagne).

 

For blue tacking, I use old Polly S paint pots, which are glass and have a nice heft.

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Below is a picture of the shelf where I keep the things I currently have in progress (this picture is from last summer, and some of those figures haven't been touched in years).  You can see several different ways that I have for holding minis while they are being painted.  Corks, wood blocks, plastic caps (using double-sided tape), etc.

 

What you can't see in this picture is that the shelf itself has rare-earth magnets glued into it in evenly spaced intervals, and all of the corks and blocks have metal discs in the bottom.

 

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A much larger version of this picture is on my FB page (link in sig)

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Since I invested in the TableWar cases that use the reverse system (magnets in the base, shelf is metal) I'll be going back over most of my minis and adding magnets to the bases. I have to prioritize so I have a good selection at ReaperCon!

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Metal discs are much cheaper than rare-earth magnets, so I'll stick with the discs.  :-)

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Metal discs are much cheaper than rare-earth magnets, so I'll stick with the discs.  :-)

 

Makes sense for the way you use the magnets. If you had several different places to place each mini (movement trays for army miniatures, a painting desk, and a couple of different travelling boxes, for instance), it can make sense to put the magnets into the base rather than the shelf or carrier.

 

And especially in the case of movement trays/sabot bases, thickness is more of an issue than it is for the miniatures base, so there can be an aesthetic consideration as well.

 

Different problems suggest different solutions.  ^_^

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Right.  Different problems have different solutions.  Also, the uniqueness theorem doesn't apply.  As I tell people in the classes I teach, use whatever method works best for you.

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What kind of classes do you teach?

As I tell people in the classes I teach...

 

 

I super glued a mini to a pill container and he snapped off of it.  I think I need to be more careful.  I don't have the drill yet so i cant pin them to a cork.

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What kind of classes do you teach?

As I tell people in the classes I teach...

 

 

Most recently, I taught classes on blending and NMM at GenghisCon.  I've also taught skintones, glazing, and some basic basing in the past.  Maybe even some other things.  I've been at it a while.

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