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Hello all! While I'm waiting for my dull coat to dry so I can finish basing, I was curious if anyone has any experience with weathering pigments. I came across these at Hobby Lobby today: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87080weathering/

 

Our Hobby Lobby recently upgraded its inventory, so there's a LOT more Tamiya, Vallejo, etc. products. 

I've seen similar products over at the Secret Weapon website: http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=37_38

 

So, what's the sitch? These look like they could be useful....  

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:blink:

 

Makeup.

 

It's pigments treated like makeup powders, pressed into compacts -- they even have standard makeup applicator sponges and brushes -- for minis.

 

:blink:

 

O-kay, I'm not much of a user of weathering pigments, but that's been because pigments are bloody dangerous breathing hazards.

 

These might be less hazardous. Or at least no more hazardous than makeup. I don't know.

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So these are the dry pigments referred to in the post from the other day. I'll have to do some research! 

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These are not the same type of weather pigments sold by MiG or AK Interactive. These look a bit more like pan pastels to me.

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When it comes to that, pastels are just pigments held together by the bare minimum of gum arabic to keep them in shape until used. They are the commonest breathing hazard in most art studios.

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The pure pigments (breathing hazard aside) used, primarily, by the military modelers have no gum arabic in them, they are literally just powders. They are a bit difficult to use but once you get the hang of them can be quite effective. Model railroaders have used pigments for a long time but in many cases what they are actually using is pastel chalks that have been shaved down. I think that Vallejo has a line of pigments now as well. I find them far more effective on vehicles and terrain than on miniatures themselves.

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nice, and I can see how they would be great for diorama and showpiece painters, but I have no idea how you could do anything effective to really preserve them for gamers. I can't imagine brush on or spray sealers will goon nice over these. Pingo, you've got lots of art experience, is there a way to seal chalk pastel works?

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nice, and I can see how they would be great for diorama and showpiece painters, but I have no idea how you could do anything effective to really preserve them for gamers. I can't imagine brush on or spray sealers will goon nice over these. Pingo, you've got lots of art experience, is there a way to seal chalk pastel works?

There are spray fixatives for pastels. I have several types. The problem with them is that anything put over the pigment will change its refractive index, making the colors both deeper and more transparent.

 

There is a reason most museums put pastels behind glass; they are barely held to the paper.

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Both MiG and AK Interactive have a liquid "Fixer" that is sometimes used to hold their pigments in place (like can't remove fix it in place), white spirits will also work (well ventilated area!). I honestly don't know what's in fixer but it does tend to leave a glossy finish. Don't use it in a small room! Remember these are for pure pigments I don't know if they would actually work with pastel chalks or not. So experiment on something you don't care about.

 

Here is one of my finished models that I used pigments, fixer and filters for that matter.

http://www.wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2013/03/nova-russ-bear-4x4-jeep-wip.html

http://www.wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2013/04/nova-rus-bear-4x4-jeep-finished.html

Edited by Heisler

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Most pastel fixatives are a thinly diluted varnish, lacquer, or gum arabic.

 

Fixatives for the miniatures hobby are unlikely to be gum arabic since it does not dry waterproof.

 

Damar dissolved in turpentine is difficult to store but a possiblity, I suppose. It would have a really distinctive turpentine smell.

 

Something like shellac dissolved in alcohol seems most likely.

 

As a note, I have seen artists recommend hairspray as a cheap pastel fixative. I don't recommend it, as it yellows badly over time.

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I used pastel sticks shaved down to dust for weathering (actually, like "dusting" or "mudding") in my Dragon diorama last year. I was very very pleased with the results when applied sparingly over the lower rim of a cloack, or the deep recesses of a beast that is supposed to be dirty (like the dragon).

 

I just took a pinch, and dipped an old tacklon brush in alcohol. It so becomes a sorta "paint" or mud, that you paint/apply. It dries quickly on the figure but some more alcohol will lift it off. 

 

I then applied a thin layer of matt varnish on top on some of the minis and noticed no big changes. Granted, I used only a little here and there in a combination of dark browns, olives and ochres, to get a subtle effect, but I feel it worked great. 

 

Of course it is a display piece and not handling on the minis is expected (actually, most people that see the diorama on display is terrifying of touching it).

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I know this isn't strictly speaking spot on, but if you watched Darkstar's amazing Bones Ogre wip he uses some water colors to do some weathering on said model. It's something I've wanted to play with for a while, but I don't know much about watercolors, so I don't really know what to look for. 

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