Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
Darkmeer

Darkmeer attempts a Tutorial: Rusted and Verdigris golem (pic heavy)

Recommended Posts

Credit to Daniel36 on the Warseer forums, since this is where I originally saw this.  His rust effects are what I use on the few things I make rusty.  Problem is, his pictures were on Photobucket, and they have since disappeared.  I will make notes of my differences in paints and what I do differently in the steps, as he is using GW paints and has some differences on what kind of rust he wanted.  I prefer a more brownish orange rust, myself.  Except for my notes and added steps below, this is a direct cut and paste, since his photos have long since disappeared.  The aim for this was tabletop quality, however, I can use the same technique for display style quality (I did my dragon, Abyzarran, using similar techniques to the verdigris, and I used those same techniques on the gears of his base).   Total time spent painting the golem between last night and today, including drying times was about 3.5 hours.

 

Now, onto the Tutorial itself.  I will warn you, this is taken directly on my workspace, so the pictures aren't the prettiest, but they came out pretty well.

Step 1

Base in a dark tone.

I use Vallejo Game Color Charred Brown as my base, you will note that, even with the Bones, I prime a medium-light grey.  I personally like this regardless of what paint I put on top.  My mix is 3:1 RMS Black Primer to 1 Vallejo Game Color White Primer, just enough tooth and just enough butter.  You could probably use a similar "mix" of primers, even doing all black or white, or everything in between.  The base is a 40mm resin base that I cast myself, along with a pair of rocks using a couple of rubber molds used for model trains.  Great for filling up that extra space!

 

post-6484-0-78886700-1395631688_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-56276900-1395631697_thumb.jpg

Step 2
Once you have your dark base, here's where you start building up.  I tend to stipple this, and it shows in the pictures.
I use VGC Beasty Brown.  The other thing of note is my brush.  I use a pig hair brush intended for stippling.  This is very handy and makes some of the work easier.  When doing display quality, use something better (and SMALLER!), but this worked for my purposes for getting a second, tabletop golem out there for future player torment.

 

post-6484-0-97624800-1395631719_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-26647800-1395631732_thumb.jpg

 

Step 3

I diverge from Daniel 36 at this point.  I begin with stippling Vallejo Game Color Fire Orange (really, any bright orange will do, but this one really pops and resists our next steps.

post-6484-0-91128900-1395632026_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-86915000-1395632030_thumb.jpg

Step 4:

Lining where I want the metals to show.  Yes, I want the golem to look like he's articulated and moving along the edges.  I did this with my trusty #2, and used Vallejo Model Color German Grey.

post-6484-0-45834100-1395632111_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-76069600-1395632114_thumb.jpg

Step 5
Now, to bring down my rust tones, I follow his original step 5, and wash with a mix of VGC Charred Brown and Leather Brown   This plays a huge role later on, when I return to this, using reds and oranges.  This is also where his tutorial ends and I continue, since Verdigris is also going to happen.

post-6484-0-57546100-1395632222_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-14605800-1395632234_thumb.jpg

Step 6

We're going to start metals after this, so I want to be clear, we will return to the rust later on, but the metals become important in my sequence, while you may choose to complete the rust effects in your own path, this is my path.

I start by painting the Shoulders Vallejo Model Color Brass and the steel areas with VMC Oily Steel.  I will note I brought down the brightness, as the metals seem to glow when I do the standard adjustment.

 

post-6484-0-28062000-1395632448_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-28217800-1395632453_thumb.jpg

 

Step 7

This is my Verdigris recipe.  I do not use Acrylic inks, I use India Inks.

2 parts Bombay Turquoise Ink, 2 parts Bombay Green Ink, 1 drop of Vallejo Model Color White paint.

post-6484-0-61717400-1395632529_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-35359200-1395632533_thumb.jpg

 

Step 8
Reclaim some of the areas of Verdigris with Brass paint.  This will be done in a transparent, slow manner on a normal figure, but, for this guy, it was done a lot faster.

post-6484-0-56322500-1395632684_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-90515300-1395632690_thumb.jpg

 

Step 9: 

Back to the Rust! And Gem stones.  I started them when I added the reds and oranges to the main body as well, as they were simple enough to add and contrasted with the surrounding verdigris.

Following steps 1-5, I painted the sword of the golem, and began adding reds to the main body of the golem

post-6484-0-13172700-1395632756_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-05768700-1395632760_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-37304100-1395632812_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-71295800-1395632825_thumb.jpg

 

Step 10:

Adding more interest with some scrapes on the sword.

post-6484-0-54447900-1395632961_thumb.jpg

 

Step 11: 

Flock and Done!

post-6484-0-57821700-1395632988_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-49973800-1395632999_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-19204400-1395633010_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-41429800-1395633019_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-86631400-1395633026_thumb.jpg

post-6484-0-80815600-1395633033_thumb.jpg

 

And, go hang out with an old war buddy while you're at it.

post-6484-0-19826500-1395633124_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing I think I could add, without harming the tutorial, is to add a black line between the rust and the shiny metal, otherwise, I think this stands out fairly well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, Monkeysloth.  They come out really bright, but as they dry they mellow out very well, even with white paint as their "binding agent," to steal a cooking term.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Darcstaar
      Since Callie is coming to a close, I have been preparing the Oxidation Beast.
       
      I have one in metal also, so I will paint both together.
       
      I had some 40mm hollow, round lipped bases that seem like a good fit.  I used some styrene model train cobblestone for one, and sculpted dressed stone tiles for the other.
       

       
      I plan for one to use the 5th Edition Monster Manual color scheme (Bones)

       
      And the metal one to follow the Pathfinder Bestiary 1 color scheme.  It has a red with black stipple color scheme.
       

    • By Dragoneye
      Playing with Secret Weapon Miniatures weathering pigments (finally...) Making a rusty wrought iron fence is really fun! I think I need to add a few more shadows to make the bits pop. I'm pretty happy with this, but C&C welcome and appreciated!



    • By Felltyde
      Undertaker is very plan, just messing with light effects 

    • By Guyscanwefocusplease
      Hi all,
       
      It's been awhile since I have painted!  Summers are always busy for me.
       
      A few months back I was approached by an old friend who got back into DnD.  He started to buy some minis, and I showed him my profile here.
       
      Back in June, he called me to ask if I would be interested in painting a special character for his campaign- Harshnag the frost giant.  The mini looked cool and I really wanted to help him out, so I said bring it on!
       
      It's taken me far too long to do this, but you know what? I kind of like re-paints.  There's a level of pressure that's taken off with color choice that is really nice.
       
      Anyway, I didn't take many pictures, but here are a few.
       
      This is what arrived- pre-painted from WOTC, but only color blocking (ans often a bit sloppy in places). The whole thing would need to be painted over since I'd probably mess up color matching.
       
       

       
      Here's after having done steps 1-10 or so.  Model mostly re-painted and shaded, highlighted, and drybrushed where it needs to be.  Still some work to do on the leather. Also decided to add in some bronze for a pop of color- though my buddy specified he wants it weathered and worn down.
       

       
      Here we are after doing the verdigris.  The chainmail will be rusted as well- after doing the final verdigris highlights I'll move to the chainmail.
       


       
      I really like the messy verdigris look- I think it draws my eyes to it more, though I'll be continuing to refine a range of verdigris effects in this and future works.  The nice thing is I am working on a quick and dirty verdigris technique that I think works really well!
       
      Anyway, enjoy! C&C welcome as always.
    • By LarsM
      This is my first go at using chipping medium, and in all an experiment with weathering. 
      Just wanted to share my experiment with everyone, do not really consider this as a tutorial as I did not know what I was doing. :o) 
       
      1. A piece of a blister pack plastic, prime black, and painted a mix of Black Brown and Dry Rust. 
      2. Wet blending with following colors in random pattern; Black Brown, Wet Mud, Explosion Orange. 
      3. Wash with mix of Flesh Wash and Dark Red. 
      4. Stipling and a bit of wet blending with Wet Mud and Explosion Orange. 
      5. Wash with mix of Flesh Wash and Wet Mud. 
      6. Adding Chipping medium to the top and water and salt to the bottom. 
      The idea with the salt is that it can be peeled of later to leave 'paint chips'. But I only seen it achived with an airbrush, so wanted to try it with brush. 
      7. Green paint, couple of layers. Way most of the salt fell off, leaving only the very small pieces, they do give a good structure of rust-bubling paint though. 
      8. Water to start the chipping. I ned a bit more patience, so the first chips went too deep and removed some of the brown paint too. And to get the chipping look good seems to need some practice.. 
      I used a tooth brush and a tooth pick to scratch the green paint off. 
      9. 'Repaired' some places with stipling of Wet Mud and Explosion Orange and a wash of Dry Rust. 
      10. Added streaks with Strong Tone and Dry Rust. And made the rust patches darker with Dry Rust.
      Those streaks really breathed life into the decay.
      Done!
       
      Came out allright, but the streaks seems to be making a big difference.im












  • Who's Online   43 Members, 2 Anonymous, 340 Guests (See full list)

×