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Darkmeer attempts a Tutorial: Rusted and Verdigris golem (pic heavy)

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Credit to Daniel36 on the Warseer forums, since this is where I originally saw this.  His rust effects are what I use on the few things I make rusty.  Problem is, his pictures were on Photobucket, and they have since disappeared.  I will make notes of my differences in paints and what I do differently in the steps, as he is using GW paints and has some differences on what kind of rust he wanted.  I prefer a more brownish orange rust, myself.  Except for my notes and added steps below, this is a direct cut and paste, since his photos have long since disappeared.  The aim for this was tabletop quality, however, I can use the same technique for display style quality (I did my dragon, Abyzarran, using similar techniques to the verdigris, and I used those same techniques on the gears of his base).   Total time spent painting the golem between last night and today, including drying times was about 3.5 hours.


Now, onto the Tutorial itself.  I will warn you, this is taken directly on my workspace, so the pictures aren't the prettiest, but they came out pretty well.

Step 1

Base in a dark tone.

I use Vallejo Game Color Charred Brown as my base, you will note that, even with the Bones, I prime a medium-light grey.  I personally like this regardless of what paint I put on top.  My mix is 3:1 RMS Black Primer to 1 Vallejo Game Color White Primer, just enough tooth and just enough butter.  You could probably use a similar "mix" of primers, even doing all black or white, or everything in between.  The base is a 40mm resin base that I cast myself, along with a pair of rocks using a couple of rubber molds used for model trains.  Great for filling up that extra space!




Step 2
Once you have your dark base, here's where you start building up.  I tend to stipple this, and it shows in the pictures.
I use VGC Beasty Brown.  The other thing of note is my brush.  I use a pig hair brush intended for stippling.  This is very handy and makes some of the work easier.  When doing display quality, use something better (and SMALLER!), but this worked for my purposes for getting a second, tabletop golem out there for future player torment.





Step 3

I diverge from Daniel 36 at this point.  I begin with stippling Vallejo Game Color Fire Orange (really, any bright orange will do, but this one really pops and resists our next steps.



Step 4:

Lining where I want the metals to show.  Yes, I want the golem to look like he's articulated and moving along the edges.  I did this with my trusty #2, and used Vallejo Model Color German Grey.



Step 5
Now, to bring down my rust tones, I follow his original step 5, and wash with a mix of VGC Charred Brown and Leather Brown   This plays a huge role later on, when I return to this, using reds and oranges.  This is also where his tutorial ends and I continue, since Verdigris is also going to happen.



Step 6

We're going to start metals after this, so I want to be clear, we will return to the rust later on, but the metals become important in my sequence, while you may choose to complete the rust effects in your own path, this is my path.

I start by painting the Shoulders Vallejo Model Color Brass and the steel areas with VMC Oily Steel.  I will note I brought down the brightness, as the metals seem to glow when I do the standard adjustment.





Step 7

This is my Verdigris recipe.  I do not use Acrylic inks, I use India Inks.

2 parts Bombay Turquoise Ink, 2 parts Bombay Green Ink, 1 drop of Vallejo Model Color White paint.




Step 8
Reclaim some of the areas of Verdigris with Brass paint.  This will be done in a transparent, slow manner on a normal figure, but, for this guy, it was done a lot faster.




Step 9: 

Back to the Rust! And Gem stones.  I started them when I added the reds and oranges to the main body as well, as they were simple enough to add and contrasted with the surrounding verdigris.

Following steps 1-5, I painted the sword of the golem, and began adding reds to the main body of the golem






Step 10:

Adding more interest with some scrapes on the sword.



Step 11: 

Flock and Done!








And, go hang out with an old war buddy while you're at it.






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One thing I think I could add, without harming the tutorial, is to add a black line between the rust and the shiny metal, otherwise, I think this stands out fairly well.

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I agree, Monkeysloth.  They come out really bright, but as they dry they mellow out very well, even with white paint as their "binding agent," to steal a cooking term.

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