Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
DonTheDime

77192: Kaladrax WIP

Recommended Posts

Yesterday evening I decided to take the plunge and start work on my Kaladrax model.  Last year I participated in Powered Play Gaming's Kickstarter for their light kits and I knew I wanted to use one of them on Kaladrax.  I spent Friday night and most of Saturday putting the two together.

 

My first step was to remove mold lines so I won't have to worry about them later.  Then came the careful process of planning out how I would install the light kit on Kaladrax for best effect.  I knew I wanted to make use of both the base and Kaladrax's belly to keep the kit components.  So, the first major effort was in separating the two halves that make up the belly, as it was glued at the factory.  With some strategic bending and the help of a long necked flathead screwdriver I was able to separate them.

 

I knew I wanted to light up the eyes and mouth, and eventually settled on using two different colored LED lights, one for the eyes, the other for the mouth.  As the light strings from Powered Play Gaming's alpha kits come as a pair of lights, this meant using two different strings and only one light of each string.  What to do with the other light of each pair?  Leave them in the belly to provide an additional light source, this one to suggest some powerful animating force originating there.

 

So, how to get the lights up to Kaladrax's head and minimize exposure of the wires?  By carefully cutting up the neck into several short sections, then a combination of drilling and digging out a series of holes big enough for the LED lights and the wires to pass through from the belly to the back of the head.  Then, drilling into the head, both in the mouth and in both eye sockets for the lights to show through.  The mouth was easier than the eyes.  For the eyes I ended up cutting two short lengths of fiber optic cable from Powered Play Gaming's fiber optic kit (the 3mm cable size) and then inserting one into each eye socket, making sure that the inner ends ended up fairly close to each other so that a single LED light could be the source for both cables.  Test mock-ups showed great promise in this strategy as it made the lit eyes more focused and defined with just the round end of the cable carrying the light through.

 

I knew I didn't want to keep all the light kit components in the belly, as I wanted the switch and the battery pack accessible without having to open the belly to use them.  So, this required some careful drilling (and digging) into the base to provide a hole for the wires to pass through from the inside of the base to the belly.  I carefully chose the spot for this hole to minimize the length of wire exposed  between the base and Kaladrax.  I also got the idea of mounting the switch to the base so that it could be accessed from the outside instead of having to lift up the base to get at the inside.  I chose one of the flat stone surfaces on the backside of the base as the location for the switch, you can see it in the pictures and on the YouTube video.

 

Now, in order to get the neck back together and strong enough to hold up,  I decided to drill a series of holes along the top side of the neck and ran a brass rod through them for support.

 

Finally I was ready to put it all together for a dry fit before gluing anything permanently and make sure it was working as planned.  So far so good.  Now time to glue the neck parts back together (with the brass rod and LED wires securely in place) and then use some epoxy putty to fill gaps and cover the seams between the neck sections (since I used a hobby saw to make the cuts, they were not a perfect match when I put them back together).

 

So here is where I am now, before any painting, with the light kit installed and Kaladrax glued into several assemblies to make it easier to paint.

 

Here are some unlighted pictures of my assembled Kaladrax, followed by a couple with the lights on:

13944646763_9581748f0a_z.jpg

 

13921483896_0bb075a252_z.jpg

 

13944645913_46928b5c1b_z.jpg

 

13921485202_3197b1be9e_z.jpg

 

Here is a link to the video I uploaded to my YouTube channel showing the lighting effects:

http://youtu.be/bDFRQGz0tp4

 

If I can figure out how to embed the video, I'll see if I can do it.

 

Next step: Painting!

  • Like 20

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is cool!...Only thing I would say is too bad you cant get the neckk to light up too...make it seem like his breath weapon is coming from his belly and all the way to his mouth...

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's one of the better lighting conversions I've seen... and a better approach to putting the wiring through the neck than I had, which was heating, straightening and drilling straight through with a very long bit, before returning to its original shape.

 

Did you pin the neck pieces as you reassembled them?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like how c'thulhu is just sort of sacked out in the background there.

 

How's it go?  "In his house at R'lyeh, dead Cthulhu waits dreaming"?  :lol:

 

Also, "Laz0r Kaladrax" looks awesome, and now he has a pew-pew breath weapon!  Are you going to paint him with darker tones to offset the light effects, or stick with a lighter "bone" effect?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you pin the neck pieces as you reassembled them?

 

Yes, a single brass rod through holes I drilled along the vertebrae.  It makes the neck very strong.  It also extends into the back of the head. I half considered using what I had done to adjust the position of the of the neck/head from the default, but figured that would require more sculpting work than I felt like doing.  Perhaps another time on a different model.

 

I also noticed the extra ribs you mentioned in your recent post on Kaladrax.  Cutting up the neck would have been easier than it was if there was only one set of ribs per vertebra, as it was I had to be careful to avoid the ribs when making my cuts, and having to avoid the extra ribs made that more challenging than it should have been.

 

I will take some closer pictures to help show what I did in the conversion/light installation and post them today before I get started on painting.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are the tools I used during my light kit installation on Kaladrax:

13931474832_32c121a88e_n.jpg13954571715_c0790aa3a1_n.jpg13954570575_23625e3b52_n.jpg13931471712_1da72f331a_n.jpg13931470452_63066b610d_n.jpg13954639983_ff71f2c497_n.jpg

 

And I thought I would give Kaladrax a proper background this time around, though unfortunately I don't think I have enough treasure to match Kaladrax's grandeur!  (And I used at least two thirds of my DF Dungeon Game Tiles' floor and straight wall tiles!)

13931527431_6646598c64_z.jpg

 

And a few more pictures with the background attempting to show the light effects:

13955085194_85bb2f879c_z.jpg13955084114_84eec2c708_z.jpg13955083384_1ccd708073_z.jpg

 

I'll post another reply with the pictures showing what I did for the installation.

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now for the detail pictures.

 

First up, here is what the insides of Kaladrax's belly looks like after removing the right belly/arm/wing assembly:

13955082384_d6d5e00d03_z.jpg

The blue-tac helps hold both sides together for display until I am ready to permanently glue them together.  I will be painting Kaladrax as several sub-assemblies instead of trying to paint the entire model as one.

 

Here is the PC Board from Powered Play Gaming's alpha kit, with four LED light strands, the remote switch, and the battery cable plugged in.  In addition to the Red and Pink light strands, I added a Cool White strand and a Purple strand to increase the light sources in the belly.  I have other color strands I could use instead of the White and Purple (blue, green, yellow, orange, UV), so I can still swap out different colors before the final assembly if desired.

13954627165_f2c1b0ef86_z.jpg

13955075904_d4b1383509_z.jpg

 

A side profile of the neck, showing my gap filling with ProCreate.  I ended up cutting the neck into six separate pieces, at each verterbra.  The pin holes were drilled in the upper part of each neck piece (at the vertebra) while the holes for the light strand wires were drilled and carved out in the fleshy portion on the lower part.

13931522692_61978ea2bf_z.jpg

 

Close-ups of the head.  The fiber optic cable sits in the forward part of the eye socket.  I used ProCreate to fill back some of the excess area that I drilled out, both in the eye sockets and in the mouth to help anchor the LED light there.

13954690873_e2654bf79e_n.jpg13931519656_f307165958_n.jpg13954688893_cf20536d71_n.jpg

 

Kaladrax's head is not currently glued.  Here you can see the head end of the brass rod used to pin the entire neck to the head and the body.  Also, you can just barely see the ends of the fiber optic cables in the eye sockets.  The Pink LED light sits right at the junction, providing light through both cables.

13954615655_914c054b8f_z.jpg

 

A closer look at the end of the neck, showing the hole I drilled/carved out for the light strands to pass through.  The holes needed to be wide enough to allow the LED bulb to pass through.

13954686273_c1e4ab724c_z.jpg

 

Now for the base, with the remote switch and battery cables unplugged from the PC Board:

13955068504_80622b5b60_z.jpg13931505491_28753a2dd1_z.jpg

 

And here is where I installed the switch to allow easy access to turn the lights on and off.

13954611675_f3857e9c19_z.jpg

 

And the underside of the base.  Blue-tac holds the battery securely in place.  You can also see the back end of the switch:

13931503601_c728edd63a_z.jpg

 

Feel free to ask questions.  I am afraid I didn't take any pictures during the process, but hopefully these pictures show enough to provide a sense of what I did.

 

Next step:  Basecoats

 

My plan is to start off with the Pokorny paints I used for my game tiles, use the Stone Grey to basecoat the base (and possibly the fleshy parts on Kaladrax as well), and Earth Stone for the basecoat of the bones.  I found them very robust when painting the Dwarven Forge Game Tiles and the Bones dungeon accessories, and I anticipate they will provide a nice solid basecoat for Kaladrax.

 

If you have any suggestions for the two additional LED light strands (to swap out with the White and Purple) feel free to post them along with your reasoning and I will take them under consideration.  I can't swap out the red and pink strands, but can easily swap out the other two.

 

 Until next post...

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aren't you afraid that the LEDs won't be strong enough to shine through the belly once you paint it?

 

That is one thing I will be testing out as I paint.  I don't intend on having a thick layer of paint on the flesh parts of the belly.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should totally put in the blue and green lights with the red...and then make alittle santa hat!

Kaladrax would eat him in his sleep for that.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What material is the dungeon from?

Is it resin or plaster?

 

They are Dwarven Forge's Dungeon Game Tiles made of 'Dwarvenite'.  I got them as part of their Kickstarter last year.  They are available in painted and unpainted versions from Dwarven Forge's website.

 

From their Caverns Kickstarter this year, here is Dwarven Forge's definition of Dwarvenite:

 

 

What is Dwarvenite?

It’s a non-toxic, PVC based material, specially compounded to hold precise detail, take paint well, and withstand a serious beating. About the same density as resin, Dwarvenite has a wonderful, tactile feel. And the pieces look great. In last year’s Kickstarter, Dwarven Forge President, Jeff Martin threw the original Dwarvenite Game Tiles off a 10-story tower, and then ran them over with his truck – and there was not even a scratch. While we don’t suggest doing that at home, Dwarvenite will stand up to almost anything

 

So, essentially of a similar nature to Bones.  A PVC type plastic.  I love them as I can let my children play with them without worry.

 

13703904825_198e37b45d_z.jpg13708233575_75e4f6babd_z.jpg

 

I painted all of my Dungeon Game Tiles using the paints that Stefan Pokorny developed for them, and I am using some of those same paints to base coat Kaladrax.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love the pictures of the dwarven forge pieces. It's just that I could not afford the cost of shipping to the uk.

 

Still great to see kids getting involved in the hobby.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By BardicDave
      I previously posted a show-off thread for the male lion in this pair, but I wound up stripping him and repainting him after mistakenly ruining him when doing touch-ups/sealing. So here they both are!
       
      C&C welcome.
       

    • By BardicDave
      My goal here was to push myself to go as fast as possible. Start to finish it took approx. 2.5 hours, which is definitely a record for me. Contrary to my usual practice, I painted the integral base; when I do get around to doing a proper base, I will likely integrate it into the display. C&C welcome.
       

       


    • By silentoutsidr
      Hi Everyone,

      This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too.
      I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme.

      First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty.

      2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced.

      3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back.

      4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye.

      5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light.

      6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together.

      Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?






  • Who's Online   37 Members, 1 Anonymous, 32 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...