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galladril

Sculpting Putty Differences

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If you really want to.  to me the stuff has all the worst properties of both milliput and GS and, because the two parts are next to each other, i get crunchies on the end of the cylinders if i let it sit for more than a month.  it is cheap though if you are doing big landscapes.  and it is machinable which is nice too. 

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I got my Apoxy resin in the other day.  It starts out the consistency of Play-Do but cures to a hardness that can be tooled.  It's going to take a bit of getting used to but I think for the price, it may be a keeper.

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I got my Apoxy resin in the other day.  It starts out the consistency of Play-Do but cures to a hardness that can be tooled.  It's going to take a bit of getting used to but I think for the price, it may be a keeper.

 

Mix it 1:1 with GS, it firms up the Apoxie a bit making it more workable when soft.  The Apoxie also softens the bubblegum feel of the GS.  The mixture is still very toolable when cured.  It also works as a glue better than GS.  I use it for all my armature and bulk work now.

Edited by TaleSpinner
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Thanks for the suggestion TaleSpinner - I will try mixing it.  Right now, I let it sit for an hour or so to firm up before I try putting any detail in.  I think Dan is posting the results of my first attempt on our website.  I have redesigned the western streets that I made for the Old West game at Reapercon.  They looked good but I wanted more detail to the planks.

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And if anyone has the comparison, what is the differences between magic sculpt and apoxie?  the two materials look very similar and I was curious if one was better than the other.

 

Thanks

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If you really want to.  to me the stuff has all the worst properties of both milliput and GS and, because the two parts are next to each other, i get crunchies on the end of the cylinders if i let it sit for more than a month.  it is cheap though if you are doing big landscapes.  and it is machinable which is nice too. 

 

 

the only virtue it has is that it is cheap.

 

Exactly.  Cheap filler.  I used it for "army" basing, when I just wanted a rough rocky floor, not a finely sculpted scene.  It's nice to have cheap junk around for that type of thing, so you don't waste your good stuff.

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So I have been playing around with the Apoxie sculpt.  By itself, it is a little spongy and you have to wait about an hour to be able to get good definition in your sculpting.  However, if you are looking for a quick, relatively cheap, fill to bulk up an armature, it will definitely work.

 

I also tried Apoxie mixed 1 to 1 with green stuff (I mixed both separately before mixing them together).  I LOVED the feel of this medium.  It gave me the ability to get good detail from the start without the stickiness that you normally have from green stuff.  Please bear in mind that my application has been terrain (in this case, the new wooden sidewalks for my old west tiles).  I was able to produce knot holes and woods texture really well.  From what I'm "feeling", it should hold up when I start using it for even finer detail.

 

Thanks again for recommending this stuff!

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Wow, I had an EPIC fail last night with Apoxie putty. 

 

I am working on our western street tiles for our new line and used apoxie putty and green stuff at at 1:1 ratio for my medium.  They looked pretty good.  I cast them as normal and when I went to de-mold the masters from the silicon, I found that they silicon bonded with my sculpture!  Both the mold and the master were ruined :(

 

I did some research and found that the white part of Apoxie contains compounds that will react with silicon.  You need to spray with a layer of mold release or some other compound that will create a barrier between your master and the silicon.  I did a light coat of acrylic primer as a test and it seems to work fine.

 

Lesson learned!

 

If you are interested in the full story and seeing pictures, I'll be doing a blog post on my website over the weekend.  Sorry, I won't post a link since my website sells gaming products but you can PM me if you want.

 

Happy sculpting everyone :)

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I have just started using the Happy seppaku basing stamps (thank you Galladril!) and while watching their video on using the bases, they always apply a layer of beeswax lip balm to the surface of the putty before making the impression or doing anything with it. This helps with the mold release and helps smooth and resmooth the impression if you mess up.

 

I can use water for pure greenstuff, but if I use milliput or magic sculpt, the top layer gets too thin causing problems with detail.

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And if anyone has the comparison, what is the differences between magic sculpt and apoxie?  the two materials look very similar and I was curious if one was better than the other.

 

Thanks

 

I know some sculptors who can notice differences, and some of those prefer magic sculp. (claiming a finer grain, IIRC) But in my experience: not much.

 

 

I did some research and found that the white part of Apoxie contains compounds that will react with silicon.  You need to spray with a layer of mold release or some other compound that will create a barrier between your master and the silicon.  I did a light coat of acrylic primer as a test and it seems to work fine.

 

Lesson learned!

 

Yikes. Good to know.

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So, I just backed the Basius 2 kickstarter (do eet) and need to know something about sculpting products (about which I know absolutely nothing). What's the best air-cure putty for making base inserts via stamps/pads? (I'm not keen on baking this stuff, it's already hot enough out here.  :mellow: )

 

EDIT: Please don't say greenstuff, that stuff is expensive.

Edited by dsmiles
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I find this stuff very interesting! I have some gs sitting in the freezer, as well as milliput and a block of Sculpey sitting in a drawer. I'm about to have to use something to full up some huge gaps on a frost wyrm I'm doing for year of the giants. It will probably be the gs, so should I try mixing it with any of the above? I've used gs and milliput for other projects, but not for filling seams/gaps (this is my first multi piece large mini)

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