Jump to content

Learn for my horrible failure! 77083: Medium Fire Elemental


Recommended Posts

So every now and then I try something new, and fail miserably;
 
Gah! So ugly! Take it to the city walls and kill it with a rock!
 
 
Reaper Bones 77083: Medium Fire Elemental. I am not at all pleased with the result.
 
This one was a bit of a struggle, and in the end, a failure. But I have learned some lessons that I would like to share, before taking a shower in my shame:
 
a) Translucent Bones also need an undercoat of sorts.
First Fail: I started out (after washing it) with yellow ink. -It did not really show, and just made a sticky mess of everything, But it did tint the model a bit.
After that had dried for sereval days, I did some drybrushing. Problem was the ink did not stick properly to the bones material, and rubbed off in places. And then the drybrushed paint would not stick. After several goes, I at least got some colour on the mini.
Lesson learned: The next translucent bones, I will undercoat with matte varnish. Maybe that lets the paint sit on the mini.
 
b) Thinned down paints definately do not stick to it, when the basecoat fails.
Yes, you see the results. Not good at all. Paint has not built up properly, leaving flaws and ruining the effect completely.
I tryied to combat this by mixing some opaque bone paint into the mix, but this really ruined it. Big mistake!
Lesson Learned: opaque paint does not go with (this kind of)  trancelucency. It just jars.
 
c) Thinning with water only goes so far.
I mainly thin with water, mostly because I do not have any medium or acrylic paint thinner. Problem is that this effects the paints coherency in additon to the fluidity. The paint somewhat falls apart.
Lesson Learned: Use medium insted of water to thin paint for translucency, when painting Bones or large surfaces.
 
What are your experiences with the trancelucent bones?

Edited by ladystorm
LINKED FOR NUDITY
  • Like 16
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 19
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Not bad; pretty good actually. I found adding acrylic medium to the ink helped a lot with getting it to adhere to the translucent Bones. Also, I would recommend a gloss or semi-gloss "primer" over a matte; a matte coat would frost the plastic and make it less, not more translucent.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I like what you did out on the wings. Wish the whole mini was like that.

 

I might have saved the bright yellow for just the eyes. Those wings are spectacular, worth saying twice.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, like everyone else, I think that actually turned out pretty cool! It's possible some of the problems you see in person aren't coming through in the photo, since we can't easily tell the difference between transparent and opaque?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I will preface this by admitting I have a tendency to play the Devil's Advocate, but I think your creation is a TERRIFIC looking piece. The heat/flame colors going out to the darkened wing tips is a FANTASTIC effect, & the burned base is SPLENDID. Allowing for differences in taste, I think it's VERY WELL DONE!

Link to post
Share on other sites
 

As for how she turned out- well, I'm going to be the dissenting voice that agrees with you.  She's no where near as nice as your zombies, for example.

 

 

By the way, I've been told that some paints will stick to raw bones better than others- and I haven't heard anything about inks.  I'll make sure to avoid them on bones (I have Reaper's clear brights and I wonder how they'll take to raw bonesium).

 

I've been thinking about doing some combinations of translucency and opacity on some of the ghostly bones that I have, so thanks for letting us know about your experience here.

 

 

 

 

To be fair, I think there's one more thing that you should be aware of.  From the look of your painting, I expect that you start out dark and work your way up.  That method is great because each step makes the mini look better, and minimize the 'ugly stages' on a mini.  Most of the time, that works great (again, just look at your other works).

 

But when you're painting fire, you really have to embrace the ugly stages on the mini hard core, because your is highlighting is reversed (the lightest places are the source of the flames).  It's pretty frustrating to work with, and requires a little more imagination/experience to know what the mini will look like based on the current hideousness.

 

I feel like the longest ugly stages I ever have is on fire and magma characters (my Charsaug was probably the worst- and he was pretty slow working out of his ugly stage).

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Maledrakh
      Labella DeMornay, Banshee from the first Bones kickstarter, This is a green translucent, and like all translucents I undercoated it first with Army Painter Anti Shine Matt Varnish, so the following washes would have something to adhere to. This is key to painting translucents. Also, make sure to use transparent paints, like inks and quickshade washes. Opaque paints will invariably ruin the translucent effect. The green tinge of the plastic will affect any transparent colours that are used, and so this must be taken into consideration. For her brown hair, I used Citadel Carroburg Crimson shade (a dark red). The skin is Citadel Casandora Yellow Shade, the dress is old Citadel Blue glaze (red flip-cap hex pot) and ditto Turquoise glaze. Taking care to draw off any pooling and to avoid unsightly tide marks by smoothing with a damp brush while wet. The aim is to tint the translucent plastic, not sp much paint over it, or even "shade" it. Not sure how pleased I am with the results here. I think the results could have been much better if the plastic was clear not green tinged.
       
      77096 Labella DeMornay, Banshee
      Reaper Miniatures, Bones 1 KS 2013
      Sculpted by Julie Guthrie
      Translucent green Bonesium PVC.
      30mm round lipped base
    • By Maledrakh
      The following images depict a miniature of a female sylph or fairy in natura. I am not sure if these would be in conflict with the posting guidelines or not. Better safe than sorry.
       
       
      First picture
       
      Second picture
       
      Third picture
       
      Clear minis are best painted by undercoating with a matte clear varnish and then transparent paints such as inks.
      This mini has wings in vallejo pale grey wash before citadel carroburg crimson wet blended on drucii violet. Body in thinned old citadel turquoise glaze, hair and panties in army painter green ink. The eyes are the only bits painted with normal opaque paint.
       
      As this mini does not seem to be released as of yet,  I do not know who sculpted it or what it's code or official name is.
    • By Maledrakh
      A water weird is a water elemental that exists within / is bound to a specific body of water and that can give the heroes a nasty surprise when going for a wash or a drink.
      I made the mistake of using blue ink on this, which turned the whole thing too dark, which I tried to correct with drybrushes of lighter shades, but it seems I just made a mess of it. I salvaged it somewhat by dumping ancient citadel turquoise glaze on it and then gloss varnish to make it look wet. The basin was done with my basic green/gray stone combo. It ended up better than I first feared.
       
       

       
      77310: Water Weird
      Reaper Bones translucent blue
      from the second Bones KS
      sculpted by Bob Ridolfi
      Bonesium PVC
      30mm base
    • By Maledrakh
      I try to comfom to the posting title and tags rules as laid down by the high and mighty,..please let me know if anything need to be done differently.
      ---
      So, 2017 has arrived.Time to mess about with spirits.
       
       
      The first series of translucent Bones were made either in orange or in a bright greenish tinge, and it seems I only ever got round to painting one or two of the green ones.
       
      We can't have that, can we?
       
       
       
      As with all the translucents, the key is to prime the model with matte varnish. I use Army Painter Anti-Shine spray for this.
      After that I use mainly inks as they also are translucent. I have learned the hard way that normal paints are opaque and should be kept to a minimum if I want to keep the minis even slightly translucent.
      For this piece I started with a liberal coating of Vallejo Green Ink, taking care to draw off exessive pooling of ink with a damp brush. After that I used some old red lidded hexpot Citadel Turquoise Glaze on the bottom half. I detailed the mini with a very light dusting of normal light bone paint on it's visible skeletal hand, and a slightly heavier drybrushing of ScaleColour Cobalt Alchemy light blue metallic on the sword and crossguard, as if it is half-materialized. I also painted the inside of the hood's cowl with ScaleColor Bloodfest Crimson (a very dark red/brown). What cannot be seen in the pictures are the pinpoint bright yellow/green eyes in the depths of the cowl. The gravestone with skulls was done in typical greys and bone-colour with a simple strong tone quickshade for effect.
      Now all it needs is some matte varnish to take the edge off the shinyness of the inks, but that will have to wait until springtime.
       
      77097 Grave Wraith
      Reaper Bones KS1
      Sculpted by Bob Ridolfi
      Green translucent Bonesium PVC
      40m base
    • By Maledrakh
      An incredibly fast paint job, but effective nonetheless:
       

       

      Yes, it is actually translucent. This image is more backlit than the first.
       
      As for all the translucents, the key is to give the models a wash and an undercoat with Army Painter Anti-Shine clear spray, which gives the paints something to hang on to.
      (much like Lord Flashheart and Baldrick-in-a-dress's beard. Woof Woof!)
       
      For this one I chose to lay off the inks and washes, and gave it a couple of quick drybrushes with light blue and lighter blue.
      Evil eyes and teeth in the lightest blue, base and done.
       
      Only goes to show that simple can be effective.
       
       
      A nice Ice Construct for Frostgrave, or even some sort of summoned elemental demon.
       
      77309: Crystal Golem
      Reaper Miniatures, Bones KS 2
      Translucent blue Bonesium PVC
      40mm base
  • Who's Online   9 Members, 0 Anonymous, 31 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...