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Oh, the degrading hardships of stripping.


Marvin
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 Testor's Enamels are some of the hardest things you'll ever have to strip - if the Army painted their tanks with Testor's Enamels the enemy would never manage to scratch the paint, nevrmind blow them up, lol...

 

 Quite frankly, the only thing that takes off Testors Enamels is time - keep soaking and scrubbing. In places where the paint is really thick, take a knife and scratch away some of the paint in the middle to let the solvent get a good start - two small spots of paint will get dissolved quicker than one large one.

If you're careful, you can use a hobby knife or dental pick to get some of the remaining bits of paint out of the corners... Wait until it softens up a bit and then lightly pick at it so you don't scratch the metal underneath. One thing about enamel is that once it dries it's a hard yet brittle surface, so if you can get a knife under the edge of it you can usually pop off a good chunk of it in a single go.

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Just to pipe in, I've left metal minis in Simple Green for months.  No ill effects to said minis.  Have done plastic GW'a for a month also no ill effects.  Have not tried Bones, but did put Finecast in Simple Green for a few days; the tiny fiddly bits like a mummy's wrap blowing in the breeze and the spear became quite pliable.

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In any case, there's no way at all Simple Green should be making any metal minis brittle. Again, that's probably due to the paint rot.

 

Definitely wasn't paint rot. The figure was new, really only a few months old with a month old paint job on it. What's paint rot?

I suspect he means lead rot, lead oxidation.

 

I could be wrong, though. ^_^

 

 

No lead in pewter miniatures though. O_o I only own 3 lead miniatures. Two that I actively remember. The other's a mystery. 

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Man, the stuff I had in acetone, after soaking in SG a while, started coming CLEAN. I guess that's to be expected. I scrubbed those down good and set them back to soak. Guess I've got an End o' Days plan in hand, now, if worse comes to worse.

 

Still, I'd much rather stick with SG alone, if I can. It's safer and easier. Doing it all indoors, etc. That batch seems to have stalled out on me a bit, so we're into another soak, now. Probably will give it a scrub before bed and then it's soaking overnight. Believe I'll take the other half or so of the minis that haven't started soaking, yet, and leave them in SG overnight. See where it all is in the morning.

 

Thanks again, everybody, for all the fantastic input, so far.

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Lead rot is an oxidation of high-lead-content miniatures that's catalyzed by acetic acid (vinegar) among other things. In appearance it's a chalky white bloom on the surface of the lead.

 

If you get real lead rot (which is extraordinarily uncommon even with miniatures from the early '80s), you'll want to segregate those miniatures immediately and clean them thoroughly (or get rid of them). As noted above, acid catalyzes the reaction, which means that it binds with the lead, then is released again to bind with more lead.

 

Things to specifically watch out for:

 

Enclosed spaces with minimal airflow.

 

Wooden (or partially wooden) enclosures

 

Acids

 

 

Note that for quite a while it was pretty common to suggest that people micro-etch the surface of miniatures to encourage paint to bond better. And the usual etching agent was vinegar.

 

DON'T DO THAT.

 

^_^

 

For a fuller explanation, see this article from the Curator of Navy Ship Models.

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In any case, there's no way at all Simple Green should be making any metal minis brittle. Again, that's probably due to the paint rot.

 

Definitely wasn't paint rot. The figure was new, really only a few months old with a month old paint job on it. What's paint rot?

I suspect he means lead rot, lead oxidation.

 

I could be wrong, though. ^_^

 

No, you're right, same thing. Some of the old timers call it "paint rot" because it tended to occur under their enamels, causing their enamels to chip away.

 

Or so I have been told.

 

In any case, Simple Green cannot make Mr. or Misses' Melon's pewter minis brittle. It just doesn't have the right stuff to do the job.

Edited by Bruunwald
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I havent had any loss of detail on bones, metal, or plastic minis when using green stuff.

 

Darkening seems happen when left for over a day. The start of it at least. I ha one poor barbarian guy that was forgotten over a weekend and a trip...........he was nearly grey by the time I found him. He was brittle too.

I just got done stripping 14 year old paint off a big pewter dragon. He had almost 73+ hour soaking time mixed with scrubbing and rinsing before I got him clean

 

I did note some darkening on his wings but painted up I don't notice it =) good luck on your stripping!

 

Also, nail polish remover was super handy for the last hard scrub I gave him

Edited by Sirithiliel
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I havent had any loss of detail on bones, metal, or plastic minis when using green stuff.

 

Darkening seems happen when left for over a day. The start of it at least. I ha one poor barbarian guy that was forgotten over a weekend and a trip...........he was nearly grey by the time I found him. He was brittle too.

 

Brittle is an unusual result.  I've left minis to soak for quite long times - both lead ones and lead free ones - even upwards of a year and a half (forgot there was one left in the murky bottom).  While discoloration happened, turning them black, brittleness is not something I've seen. 

 

ETA - I see it's already addressed.  Perhaps I should have read the whole thread.  :bday:

Edited by buglips*the*goblin
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Welp, done for the night. It's been a loooong day (in the future, if it arises again, I'll do smaller batches/not stay right on top of it so much/obsess less), but everything's rolling along.

 

I soaked 11 minis in acetone for 18-24 hours and then moved them to Simple Green, this evening, for another 6 hours. With plenty of scrubbing sessions along the way, these are basically done. I called it finished on two that were all but perfect. The others are between just shy of "totally can live with it" and well into that territory. I'm letting them soak the rest of the night.

 

I started 5 minis in SG 12 hours ago. These are coming along swimmingly, for the most part. I gave them another scrub just now and found them in the same territory as the others, pretty much--only one, though, has the heftier red and green paints I'm fairly certain are enamel; it's not much further behind the others at all. Soaking them overnight, too.

 

I started the last batch of 13 in SG earlier and gave them a two-hour scrubbing. They're just getting started, mostly, of course. They've got the overnight to go.

 

One thing's for sure: I'm totally sold on Simple Green! So far, at least. Will be interesting to see how well and how quickly it finishes up with the stuff that hasn't been in acetone. It's been spectacular to this point.

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For metals and enamels I've had success with Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner (not sure if that brand is available in the US).

 

I put them in a high sided metal container and spray the stuff in. It then foams up (hence the high sided container), and when it clears (after a few hours), the models are pretty clean. I don't think it's too bad with hard plastic (I stripped a lot of GW space marines with plastic jetpacks and they were ok), but it's worth testing first.

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I'm sort of the king of dropping a miniature into my little bucket of Simple Green, and then...kind of forgetting it's in there for a couple of months. I've had some miniatures that get a darkening to the metal. No biggie, as these are all non-lead. I just use the same little nylon brush on my rotary tool and shine them back up if it bothers me. The ones that seem to be the worst culprits for the darkening of the metal are old Parthas, and some of the older Reapers. Oh, and also I've noticed that Bones left in Simple Green can discolor a bit too. Nothing that has had any effect on the detail. Cheers. 

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All but a few of the acetone-soaked minis were good to go, this morning. Scrubbbed them down and dried them off and went ahead and primed them. The early batch of SG-soaked minis were pretty clean, too--I finished a couple with scrubbing and put the others, along with the other batch, back to soak for the rest of the day. It's mostly a matter of trying to get robes and other finer details free of paint I honestly could paint over without regret. But won't. Because I can. The last batch of SG-soaked minis showed great progress, ranging from the halfway mark or so to nearly done, in two or three cases. Scrubbed them down and am letting them soak the rest of the day, also.

 

So all's gone well. Thanks again--last time, promise--for all the help and insight. I'm pleased to know I can pull this off. Spending the afternoon painting instead of stripping--it's definitely much more fun. :bday:

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Enamel paints..........

 

 

Soak those puppies in gasoline for a good 12 hours then wash with warm soapy water.  Outdoors only [DUH] and make sure to wear gloves.

 

Back in the day ( the 70's) we used gas to get paint off our hands after painting.

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Sounds like the Simple Green is the best and safest stuff to be using, I'd not use any other chemicals especially with how well SG is working for you. No need for gas or break fluid or anything else that is super flammable or can kill you.

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