Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Marvin

Mostly unrelated questions about (a) washing and (b) highlighting.

Recommended Posts

Yo, folks. Questions:

 

1. When using a wash, how does one decide what color to use? I'm working with the Reaper triad, and I also picked up three Citadel shades the other day.

 

Reaper's black I think I get. It gives a lining sort of effect and black shadows, in my early experimenting.

 

The brown seemed to do pretty much obvious stuff with the mini I've tried it on--dirtied it up, gave it some shadows not quite so dark as the black but entirely noticeable. Would it be an avenue to explore for weathering/aging/whatevering wood and/or leather?

 

The flesh wash--should I be trying to hit faces and hands with it? Save it for more scantily-clad minis? Something altogether else?

 

I've also got some Athonian Camoshade, Agrax Earthshade, and Drakenhof Nightshade. So basically a green, a  brown, and a blue wash. Unless I'm totally misreading.

 

The Athonian I haven't used. What situations should I be looking at for a greenish wash?

 

The Agrax seems pretty comparable to Reaper's brown. Is it? I haven't used it yet. I picked it up because everyone seems to swear by it--seems like I've seen it talked about with everything from skeletons to wood to leather. Thoughts and/or advice?

 

I tried out the Drakenhof on a wizard's pale bluish robes with the hopes of both shadowing and blue-ing up the color as well. It seemed to work on both counts (though I wasn't entirely thrilled with the mini, but nevermind that). Was that a reasonable idea? What other considerations/situations should I keep in mind with this one?

 

Or am I totally off the reservation with all this?

 

2. I'm painting a piece right now, and I mixed up a nice chocolate brown for a robe. I'm getting ready to highlight and got to thinking--should I vary up my colors with highlighting? I've been aiming for very-light versions of the base color. What would happen if I tried highlighting with something else? Is that a thing? Like, go with a yellow on a brown or some such? Or a red or orange or something? I feel like this question particularly makes less sense than it did when I was thinking about it earlier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, so: browns, especially clearer browns, can be used to shade bone, skin, hair, sometimes metal if you're going subtle, and sometimes reds or even oranges. Brown of some sort is also good for shading gold if you want it to look rich, warm gold instead, of cold and brassy. Sometimes browns can shade grey, if the black is making it look too sooty and dirty. A brown wash can also be used to shade yellow :)

 

A dark green wash can be used to shade green or blue, but less obviously, you can use it to dull down reds. Basically, sometimes you can use the colour that is opposite on the colour wheel to shift the basecoat as well as shade it. Using a red wash on green (or a green wash on red) moves the shadows towards brown, so if your orcs look WAY too much like watermelon, or lime-flavoured sweets, washing them with a red can tone them down. Technically this is called "de-saturating".

 

Brown wash is TOTALLY suitable for weathering wood and leather, or even shading skin. Also skin wash can shade/weather wood, leather, etc. I haven't seen the wash in question but usually skin tone is a bit more orange than most browns, so it might also be good for rust and water-stains.

 

Blue wash can be used to shade steel, with or without later washes in other colours. Remember you can wash more than once to get the shading you want. Also, remember you can thin the washes, especially the Reaper ones: the Reaper washes are designed to be as dark as you probably ever want, allowing you some wiggle-room to water them down for different effects.

 

Overall I would say: brown wash for anything but green or blue, green or blue wash for either green or blue, black wash usually only for metals, depending on your own taste.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, question two, the answer is absolutely yes. It might take a while to get the hang of it, or you might have a natural gift, but highlighting to a different colour is not just a thing, it's the thing. (As in, very cool and terribly fashionable, rather than mandatory)

 

Browns are kind-of related to yellows and oranges (technically I think all browns are just really dull yellows or oranges) so thinking about yellow and orange and even red when you're working with brown is definitely a good thing. It might not pay off this time but it will come in handy in the future!

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Color is a lot of fun. Smokingwreckage knows the fashions better than I, but I have long highlighted colors with different colors.

 

Green tends to look better highlighted with a more golden color anyway, since lightening green tends to naturally give it a bluish cast.

 

The use of different colors than straight white to lighten colors helps make illusions of lighting and reflection as well.

 

EDIT: Oh, and so far as I can tell, we call anything a "brown" which is a non-saturated color in the range from yellowish-green through yellow, orange, and red. Interestingly enough, this is the range of "not-blue" seen as the *other* color by most bichromatic mammals.

Edited by Pingo
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your particular paint selection may vary somewhat from mine, but pink + flesh wash = most excellent "monster mouth".  For dragon maws, inside of faceless horrors, etc.  It's worth an experiment to see if you like the look. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What follows are based on my limited experiences. Take with salt, as many grains as you please. Green and red washes work well for gold/bronze/brass, depending on the look you are going for. Blues, blacks, and browns work well on silver/steel. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is all really great stuff. Thanks, y'all. I'm playing around with highlights and the washes. This'll help improve the efforts. I hope. I'm trying to remind myself it's okay to ruin stuff. I've got Simple Green in the bathroom. It can be fixed. We have the technology. Etc.

 

I did try dry-brushing some orange onto that brown robe--I think it worked. Gave it a very different look, at any rate. On it gees.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, question two, the answer is absolutely yes. It might take a while to get the hang of it, or you might have a natural gift, but highlighting to a different colour is not just a thing, it's the thing. (As in, very cool and terribly fashionable, rather than mandatory)

 

Browns are kind-of related to yellows and oranges (technically I think all browns are just really dull yellows or oranges) so thinking about yellow and orange and even red when you're working with brown is definitely a good thing. It might not pay off this time but it will come in handy in the future!

 

Browns are... oh wait, of course PIngo beat me to it!  :;):

 

On the other topic, trying interesting controlled washes is THE thing. By some mini painters it is called a "nuance", and involved incorporating the hint of a color by a very diluted wash. For example, a little reddish skin tone by the cheeks and nose... the reflected color of surrounding clothing into the skin shadows; etc.

 

Color is a lot of fun. Smokingwreckage knows the fashions better than I, but I have long highlighted colors with different colors.

 

Green tends to look better highlighted with a more golden color anyway, since lightening green tends to naturally give it a bluish cast.

 

The use of different colors than straight white to lighten colors helps make illusions of lighting and reflection as well.

 

EDIT: Oh, and so far as I can tell, we call anything a "brown" which is a non-saturated color in the range from yellowish-green through yellow, orange, and red. Interestingly enough, this is the range of "not-blue" seen as the *other* color by most bichromatic mammals.

 

Spot on, as always.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Werkrobotwerk
      Does anyone know what the closest match to dirty grey is out of the currently available paints? I'm kind of on my last little bit of it, and I used it on a bunch of stuff that I'll likely need to get close to matching in the future.
    • By BLZeebub
      So after too many years of painting with my bottles just in boxes or standing around on my shelf of shame or in various drawers, I have finally at much cost of labor made paint organizers!  BEHOLD!  I made these to hold up to 204 Reaper dropper sized bottles (Army Painter and Vallejo fit too).  They aren't the only ones I use by any means, but they're the bulk of my paint collection.
       
      Wasn't the hardest thing in the world, but honestly I might try another method if I do this again.  Right now the units are loose, probably going to lean them on the wall--eventually I would put supports on the backs so they can stand up at an angle (think picture frames).  The insane super duper bonus feature is that I can put the two together and transport, or more importantly, SHAKE all my paints at once!  The main purpose was organization though and being able to see each of my paints and, when I've organized and sorted them, see the spectrum at a glance rather than digging through a drawer as I have been doing.  For the chromophiles out there I'll post pics when they're sorted and in their proper places.
       
      To make them, I sized the bottles and figured out the hole size and spacing (bottles are about 1" diameter, I used a 1 1/8" hole saw (paddle bit blew out the back side) and drilled 102 holes (sandwiched the 3/4" boards together).  It took hours as my drills' batteries kept dying and the saw lost its good edge by the 60th holes or so.  I used the "holes" I drilled out as supports (had to chisel the middle supports in half) between the silver parts and the 5mm (yes, civilized world, in the US we know how to use proper/metric, and certain sizes of wood are specified in metric!) plywood base (black, not really visible).  I carefully glued and screwed these together.  Decided to use up some spray paint I had lying around.  Enjoy and be inspired!

    • By MusicalFeline
      Right, so this is probably a stupid question, but I'm gonna ask it anyways, because, well, I'm uncertain.
       
      So a week ago, I purchased the D&D/Army Painter Monster Paint Set. Fantastic set, contains more paints than I'll need ever for a decade for a year for an undetermined period of time.
       
      Anyways, this set came with three washes - Shadow Wash, Flesh Wash, and Brown Wash. As recommended by several other painters on a different post, I decided I'd use these premade washes rather than the thinned-down paint I had been using in the past. However...
       
      I doubted, and now I'm uncertain. After a quick google search, I'm even more confused as I saw contradictory answers, and answers that weren't really answers. I know I'm being irrational, but do you use these the same way as thinned-down paint (applying to the miniature after it's been basecoated?), or do you use it some other way?
       
      Again, stupid question, but as they say, it's better to be safe than sorry. Thanks!
    • By SparrowMarie
      So my niece is turning 13 next month. She already has a huge interest in minis and loves to paint with me. I'm trying to build her a kit or care package for her birthday so we can video chat and paint together. I'm at a loss as to what to put in it though. She has a ton of minis I gave her and a few brushes but I want to get her like a full starters kit of sorts (paint, better brushes, brush soap, etc.). I'm already considering the first LTPK. What would you put in it for someone just starting out?
    • By SamuraiJack
      Some of these came back as other numbers, but but the rest won't be brought back by Reaper and some might be present in other paint lines.  
       
       
      (Twilight Triad 9727)
      9079 Deep Amethyst
      9080 Indigo Sky
      9081 Pale Indigo - mix equal portions of Imperial Purple and Sky Blue
       
      (Colored Liners Triad 9738)
      9112 Red Liner - Reaper 9235 (Back in Bones 3 as 9307)
      9113 Green Liner - Reaper 9236 (Back in Bones 3 as 9308)
      9114 Violet Liner - Reaper 9237
       
      (Muted Purples Triad 9740)
      9118 Dusky Grape
      9119 Bruise Purple
      9120 Faded Purple
       
      (Clear Brights III Triad 9744)
      9130 Clear Orange - Lava Orange 9218 and Explosion Orange 9219
      9131 Clear Viridian - Peacock Green 9226
      9132 Clear Plum - Royal Purple 9240
       
      (Blush Colors Triad 9747)
      9139 Antique Rose - KS Old West Rose
      9140 Blushing Rose
      9141 Porcelain Rose
       
      (Historic Blues Triad 9751)
      9151 Steely Blue
      9152 Military Blue - Reaper 9269
      9153 Weathered Blue
       
      (Desert Camos Triad 9752)
      9154 Dune Shadow
      9155 Desert Khaki
      9156 Desert Sand
       
      (Mist Greens Triad 9756)
      9166 Shadow Green - Reaper 9270
      9167 Field Green
      9168 Mist Green
       
      (Terracotta Clays Triad 9757) - Redstone Triad 9775 
      9169 Muddy Clay
      9170 Terracotta Clay
      9171 Fired Clay
       
      (Cold Greys Triad 9758)
      9172 Stormcover Grey
      9173 Coldstone Grey
      9174 Icy Grey - KS Aircraft Grey (slightly greener)
       
      (Volcano Browns Triad 9760)
      9178 Cinder Brown
      9179 Volcano Brown - Reaper 9268
      9180 Ashen Brown - MSP HD 29831
       
      (Tropical Colors Triad 9761)
      9181 Bright Coral
      9182 Saffron sunset - Reaper 9247
      9183 Cloud Pink - KS Reaper Punk rock Pink
       
      (Reptilian Greens Triad 9762)
      9184 Serpentine Shadow
      9185 Reptus Green
      9186 Scaly Highlight
       
      (Sandy Colors Triad 9764)
      9190 Sandy Brown - Reaper 9249
      9191 Sandy Tan
      9192  Sandy Yellow
       
      (Sea Blues Triad 9765)
      9193 Stormy Sea
      9194 Clouded Sea
      9195 Seafoam Blue
       
      (Humanoid Skintones Triad 9768)
      9202 Troll Shadow - MSP Stained Olive 29838
      9203 Gnoll Brown
      9204 Halforc Highlight
       
      (Reaper Ink II Triad 9771)
      9211 Green Ink
      9212 Blue Ink
      9213 Purple Ink 
       
      (Spring Greens Triad 9749)
      9145 Moth Green - Reaper 9248
      9146 Spring green - Reappaearance at RCon 2015
      9147 Luminous Green - Reaper 9248 + 1 drop of white
       
      (Heavy Gear paints)
      RPR 61101 Terra Nova Tundra (Possible alternative: NMM gold?)
      RPR 61102 Macallen Brown
      RPR 61103 Redrider Crimson
      RPR 61104 Dune Shadow
      RPR 61105 Mekong Moss
      RPR 61106 Giant Fern
      RPR 61107 Okavango Swamp
      RPR 61108 Republique Red
      RPR 61109 Armadillo Tusk (hd)
      RPR 61110 White Sand
      RPR 61111 Paxton Red
      RPR 61112 War Paint Red
      RPR 61113 Arthurian Blue (hd)
      RPR 61114 Blue Crescent
      RPR 61115 Atlantean Aqua
      RPR 61116 Coated Armor
      RPR 61117 Factory White (Ghost white + Blue Flame perhaps?)
      RPR 61118 Grel Flesh
      RPR 61119 Afterburn Grey
      RPR 61120 Hazard Yellow (hd)
      RPR 61121 R.a.m. Black (hd)
      RPR 61122 Durasheet Alloy
      RPR 61123 Skunkworks Gunmetal
      RPR 61124 Beacon Yellow
      RPR 61125 Fallout Grey (hd)
      RPR 61126 Ash Grey
      RPR 61127 Waveform Aquamarine
      RPR 61128 Gamma Shielding Gold
      RPR 61129 Cat's Eye Umber (hd)
      RPR 61130 Cat's Eye
      RPR 61131 Red Dust
      RPR 61132 Drillbit Metal
       
      HD Line:
       
      29803    HD Entrail Pink    
      29804    HD Rusty Red    
      29805    HD Burning Orange    
      29807    HD Mustard Yellow    
      29810    HD Mossy Green    
      29814    HD Ice Blue    
      29816    HD Solid Blue    
      29817    HD Winter Blue    
      29818    HD Nightsky Blue    
      29821    HD Sunburn Flesh    
      29823    HD Caucasian Flesh    
      29824    HD Maiden Flesh    
      29829    HD Golden Brown    
      29830    HD Ruddy Brown    
      29831    HD Ashen Brown    
      29832    HD Concrete Grey    
      29833    HD Ash Grey    
      29834    HD Field Grey    
      29835    HD Dirty Grey    
      29836    HD Military Grey    
      29837    HD Armor Grey    
      29838    HD Stained Olive    
      29839    HD Maroon Red    
      29840    HD Garnet Red    
      29845    HD Gilded Yellow    
      29846    HD spruce Green    
      29847    HD Rich Indigo    
      29848    HD Jungle Camo    
      29849    HD Umber Brown    
      29850    HD Elfin Flesh    
      29851    HD Tropical Aqua    
      29852    HD Dwarven Flesh    
      29853    HD Rosy Pink    
      29854    HD Arctic Grey    
       
  • Who's Online   25 Members, 2 Anonymous, 49 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...