Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Grumpy Cave Bear

GCB paints: 77116 Colossal Skeleton

Recommended Posts

It's been a short while, but I'm back with another project. This time around, I'm going to tackle this guy: 77116 Bones Colossal Skeleton.

 

This'll be an interesting paint project for me, because I won't be able to depend on using an airbrush as much as I did for painting Kaladrax. I'll be out of my comfort zone and trying a lot of techniques that are new to me.

 

There's a large gap where the skeleton's torso connects to the waist -- I could use an epoxy putty, but there's been something I wanted to try for a while: Alteco SSP-HG Instant Adhesive Putty, a two-part gap-filling compound that's meant for filling seams on vinyl and plastic models.

 

I got this product mail order, and of course there's no English instructions -- it's all in Japanese. Fortunately, my S.O. was able to puzzle out some of the Kanji for me.

 

post-13048-0-32364200-1407221905_thumb.jpg

 

The package comes with a large round jar filled with "micro-balloons" (a white powdery substance!), two bottles of a thin, slow-setting CA, a smaller bottle of "flex agent" -- it's supposed to make the compound less brittle (the translation was unclear) -- a measuring spoon and mixing knife, and a few plastic-coated sheets of paper for mixing on.

 

post-13048-0-58946500-1407222014_thumb.jpg

 

The instructions were 12 drops of CA per spoonful of micro-balloons, but I didn't need that much, so I halved the recipe. As you can see, the mixture starts out slightly goopy, and apparently has a working time of about 2-4 minutes.

 

post-13048-0-58358200-1407222097_thumb.jpg

 

I iced the connecting pin and area around it with the mixture and jammed it into the slot. Then I wiped the excess off with a q-tip soaked in lacquer thinner (it doesn't appear to attack Bones).

 

post-13048-0-78486600-1407222147_thumb.jpg

 

Finally I added in a bit more and teased it with an X-Acto blade tip as it firmed to disguise the seam. Not too shabby...

 

Quick summary review of the SSP-HG: On the plus side, it works quickly and it sticks and holds firmly to the model, and it sands and carves fairly well once dry. On the minus side, it's initially goopy enough that you can't sculpt it like green stuff, it dries to a rough surface, and it appears to be fairly brittle when dry, though i could try the flex agent for that. Its best use appears to be for filling gaps and sanding smooth afterwards.

 

Not that it matters much, anyway; I went online to look it up, and it appears to be long out of production. I'm glad now that I kept the CA in the refrigerator.

 

Finally, I put a base coat of paint on the model. Once again, I experimented with another product I had heard about but hadn't tried: Multi-surface acrylic craft paint. It's a fair bit more expensive than regular craft paint. The brand I tried was FolkArt, since I heard it sticks well to plastic, though I suppose you could use Martha Stewart brand, since both brands are manufactured by Plaid Crafts.

 

It's too thick to be used straight out of the bottle, so I thinned it with a generic ammonia window cleaner mixed with water until milk-like in consistency and airbrushed it onto the model, using several light misting coats (drying between each coat) so it didn't run.

 

post-13048-0-13733500-1407222202_thumb.jpg

 

As you can see, it goes on fairly glossy. What you can't see is how well it adheres. I usually try a "scratch test" on anything I base coat with. This paint passes with flying colors -- I was only able to remove a little of it by scratching hard enough to damage the underlying plastic. This paint sticks to Bonesium at least as well as Liquitex gesso. (I only wish I had purchased Burnt Umber instead of Bark Brown.)

 

Next time, I'll start painting on some Reaper colors, and see how well they stick to this base coat.

Edited by Grumpy Cave Bear
  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good.

 

For Folk Art, you might want to try what they used to call Artist's Pigments. They are thicker and far heavier on pigments in the Pigment / binder / filler ratio. After 2008 they rolled the colours into the main line, but so far the formula has been the same. Some of the colours are hard to find which is a real shame since the 463 Dioxazine Purple is the DARKEST purple I have ever seen in a craft paint.

 

FolkArt Artists’ Pigments
758 Alizarin Crimson 
481 Aqua 
476 Asphaltum 
484 Brilliant Ultramarine 
686 Burnt Carmine 
943 Burnt Sienna 
462 Burnt Umber 
453 Butler Magenta
720 Cobalt 
463 Dioxazine Purple 
237 Fawn
471 Green Umber 
461 Hauser Green Dark 
459 Hauser Green Light 
460 Hauser Green Medium 
235 Ice Blue Dark
233 Ice Green Light
521 Lemon Yellow
914 Light Red Oxide 
455 Medium Yellow 
435 Napthol Crimson 
522 Phthalo Blue 
486 Prussian Blue 
479 Pure Black 
689 Pure Magenta 
628 Pure Orange 
452 Raw Sienna 
485 Raw Umber 
629 Red Light 
458 Sap Green 
480 Titanium White 
456 True Burgundy 
679 Turner’s Yellow 
504 Vandyke Brown 
649 Warm White 
503 Yellow Citron 
918 Yellow LIght 
917 Yellow Ochre 
 
I underlined the really dark colours for deep basecoats.
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had just a little time tonight, so I used it to base coat the second colossal skeleton and a couple of other models (which won't be appearing in this thread). I figured I had the airbrush out, so I might as well batch-paint them.

 

The idea of using Folk Art Multi-Surface paint as a base came from a thread on the Dwarven Forge site where the author (Cody N) was testing several cheap paints for the Dwarvenite Game Tiles. This paint came up as the clear durability winner, so I did a few tests with scraps of Bonesium and found it worked just as well on that. The color selection on that line is pretty limited so far, only about 40 colors and a handful of which are suitably dark, but since it's a base and won't show much, I'm not worried. Of the colors suggested by scorpio16, only Pure Black and Burnt Umber are in the Multi-Surface line.

 

Tonight I tried using isopropyl alcohol as an airbrushing thinner, which doesn't work -- the paint was starting to clump and curdle in the mixing jar. Just plain water as a thinner worked about as well as the ammonia window cleaner, at least for the warmer temperatures we've been having lately, so I finished basing with that.

 

I'm also excited about using a bunch of new colors on this project, too. Last week, Cool Stuff Inc cleared out their unpainted miniatures lines and paint at 60% off. I learned about this only just as I was going out the door to work, so I quickly dropped one of every remaining Reaper single paint (the sets were already gone) into the shopping basket and checked out. I didn't think of getting any of miniatures or telling anyone else until after I got to work, and by the time I got back home it was just about over.

 

But this arrived on my doorstep over the weekend:

 

post-13048-0-07616400-1407390407_thumb.jpg

 

Over 100 Reaper paint bottles! In one swoop, I tripled size of my paint set. I even completed a few more triads. It took a couple hours just to shake, test, sort and mark a drop of color on the lid of each bottle.

 

Now I have to put them to good use...

  • Like 11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had only a short time tonight, so I sprayed the second colossal skeleton, and did a quick-and-dirty lining job on both with Reaper Brown Liner:

 

post-13048-0-93141800-1407905452_thumb.jpg

 

The Brown Liner works well. I'm glad I got two bottles of it.

 

My wife, bless her, looked at the work in progress and asked: "Aren't skeletons supposed to be white?"

 

Next up, putting the base colors down.

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started out this evening by basing the tombstone hammer with Shadowed Stone, then basing all the boney bits with Bone Shadow. Nearly four hours later, I had only finished one skeleton's bones and still have another's torso yet to go:

 

post-13048-0-50350800-1408346167_thumb.jpg

 

Ugh. It's going so slow, partly because I'm trying to leave a little of the brown liner between colors, and partly because the Bone Shadow doesn't cover well and I have to paint two coats. I'm trying to do a "high tabletop" quality -- is this to be expected?

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I continued through basing the second skeleton's torso tonight. No picture, because it's the same as the first.

 

I picked up on two things tonight, though. The first was the Reaper Retarder. I tried it at about 1 drop retarder to 3 drops paint, and it seemed to slow drying time considerably, which is useful in the currently very warm weather. I was having trouble with paint drying out before I could use it, even thinned with water and on a homemade wet palette. The retarder slowed that down to where I could most of it on the model before it dried. The paint is still tacky after most of a day, however. We'll see if that improves.

 

The second was changing brush size and type. I was using a number 0 round, with a 3/0 round for edges and details. That was taking a horrible amount of time to fill in anything. In a fit of frustration, I started through my brushes, looking for anything that would keep a good point and hold paint. I pulled any brush that would't hold a point when wet or had splayed bristles -- about a dozen, some of which were 10 years or older.

 

I finally settled on a Lowell-Cornell No. 2 Liner (synthetic) that hadn't been used before. I was surprised in a good way. It held its point, so I was able to get down to quite small detail, while the long bristles held more paint, which meant not having go back to load the brush with paint as often as the shorter bristled rounds or smaller sizes. The long bristles also meant the paint never got close to the ferrule, which has ruined a number of brushes for me before.

 

I think I'll try using liner brushes over rounds for a while, to see how well they work.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is not unusual for good tabletop. Personally for a figure this big I'd basecoat in my mid tone, then use a "magic" wash like Army Painter Ink Strong Tone, then one drybrush over the top, to avoid that possible coverage issue. For Kally I plan to basecoat warm bone of some sort, then wash with Soft Tone just in case Strong is too.... well... strong. Putting another thinned wash down is easier than drybrushing.

 

Buuuuuuut, that said, For a really big figure you might get better drybrush speed by getting a small house painting brush and using that... I will have to try it sometime and let folks know. It SHOULD work fine if you get the "dryness" right.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been wanting to post all weekend, but every chance I had was taken up by the kids occupying the tablet, so no in-progress photos until now.

 

post-13048-0-16360300-1408937569_thumb.jpg

 

I've based most of the rest of the details, including the wood, leather and rope. I've decided on an color scheme with shades of orange, brown and purple, which is why the cloth strips are based with Dark Elf Shadow and the base is Burning Orange. (It's bright now, but after a few brown washes, and lighter drybrush layers, it will look like desert terrain.)

 

Next, I have to work out how I'm going to paint the furs around the waist, as I've never painted furs before.

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is not unusual for good tabletop. Personally for a figure this big I'd basecoat in my mid tone, then use a "magic" wash like Army Painter Ink Strong Tone, then one drybrush over the top, to avoid that possible coverage issue. For Kally I plan to basecoat warm bone of some sort, then wash with Soft Tone just in case Strong is too.... well... strong. Putting another thinned wash down is easier than drybrushing.

Good advice, and very much what I did when painted Kaladrax. One thing I did with the wash was thicken it with matte medium to soften the color gradient. Kaladrax's details are soft and any sharp edges in the wash would look out of place.

 

Buuuuuuut, that said, For a really big figure you might get better drybrush speed by getting a small house painting brush and using that... I will have to try it sometime and let folks know. It SHOULD work fine if you get the "dryness" right.

Maybe not a house brush, but a 1-inch trim-painting brush might work. Or maybe a stencil brush... Has anyone tried dry-brushing with that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back at it! I've shaded and dry-brushed the ground and burial shrouds, then layered the skeletons, using Shadowed Bone as the shadow, Alien Flesh as the mid-tone and Graveyard Bone as highlights. It's about 7 layers of color on the bones, and a bit messy, but not bad for a first try for layering. One more mental roadblock cleared away.

 

post-13048-0-01772400-1412213033_thumb.jpg

 

I've been tinkering with these skeletons for too long. Maybe if I push, I can get them done by the weekend.

 

Next up is the tombstone hammer and various details.

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Shadespyre
      Hello Reaper friends!  You might remember I did a whole tribe of Hill Giants on a display board, with hex bases?
       
      This is my follow up to that, this time: Stone Giants.
       
      Errrm, it all got a bit out of hand, and I'd LOVE some input from you all, please
       
      This is where I'm at after a week and I'm a bit stuck tbh.




       
      I think I need to decide more about what the "finish" will look like before I go a lot further. Once I cover that foam with more than paint it's going to be harder to make changes. I'm thinking of sort of "cladding" it in pieces of slate, with sculpted  bits / groundwork in the gaps?
       
      I'd also love to hear suggestions for other miniatures and features to add to the scene to break up those big open rocky spaces. Current extra bits and bobs are just there for a sense of scale and how extra minis might "interrupt" or "enhance" the scene.
       
      Some next steps though:
      - cork around the hexes on the platforms for the bases to fit into
      - some sort of "door frame"
      - "box in" the sides (which are cut out of a continuing mountainside, in my head at least)
       
      Please, rain your ideas and encouragements upon me!
       
       
    • By MoonglowMinis
      Help! I'm hating this paintjob.
       
      I grabbed this demilich thinking it'd be a fun and easy paintjob. But everything I do makes me hate it more.
       


       
      I was trying to go for a green flame look, so yellow on the inside, and gradually darker green highlights on the outside. These were drybrushed and then cleaned up by hand. I think this is where the problem started because it's not reading as fire. It just looks like a blobby mess?
       
      Should I just scrap it and start over with more of an ethereal glow that's darker in the middle and lighter on the edges?
       
      I also am not happy with the base. I've never painted a 2D base before, I've always added some kind of texturing material. And although I'm reasonably satisfied with how the base looks on the summoning circle behind the demilich, it looks so bad on the demilich base. And I think my green glow isn't helping. 
       
      And finally the Bones. I imagined that if there was a green light behind the Bones then they'd be tinted green and darker on the outside. Again .. this just doesn't look right.
       
      I'm normally fairly confident in my painting abilities, but I think I've landed in unfamiliar territory and I'm just not sure how to salvage or proceed. What can I do?
    • By Rahz
      Another 3D print that I’m working on, this time a big one.  I’ve shied away from buying/printing dragons for the most part as I have a ton of amazing Reaper ones still to paint (or finish... ) but this one was a freebie of sorts from one of the creators I follow on Patreon.  
       
      In keeping with my clear resin tricks, I whipped up the base really quickly and then stalled on how I was going to paint the actual dragon...  oops!  
       


       
      I masked off the crystals and plugged the holes for the feet and primed it with a mix of brown and grey Vallejo primers, drybrushed it with a tan followed by a tan mixed with white and then it got a series of Vallejo model washes (green, grey and dark brown).  I then peeled off the mask and gave the crystals a quick coat with Tamiya Clear Green.  
       
      For the actual dragon, the plan now is to paint the heavier scales like the base with the softer belly and flesh being brown.  
       

       

       

       

       
      Like my recent plague doctor bust, I masked his eyes so they will be the same green as the crystals on his base.  I toyed with putting a light in his head as well, but seems to be doing that to everything all of a sudden, and skipped it.  
       
      in case you’re wondering about the pink, that’s what mixing the Vallejo red and grey primers did. The base was that colour before the drybrush and washes. 
       
      Hoping to get some more work on the brown and get the drybrush done on his scales this weekend.  That’s going to be a lot of drybrushing!! 
       
      Thanks for looking.  
    • By MoonglowMinis
      So for awhile now I've had this goal, nay, this desire, nay, this primal compulsion to build a boat.  It is not enough to have hand drawn maps, or 2D terrain tiles.  I need a fully functioning 3D boat!  Well, maybe not fully functioning.  But I want to build a cool boat!
       
      I've been working on a nautical campaign full of swashbuckling, sailing, and sea monsters for a few years now.  It's my White Whale project.  Always just on the horizon.  It'll happen some day, but in the meantime, I have a million small projects to complete and extend the chase.  One of which is my desire to build a few different sized ships to enliven any possible naval combat.
       
      I actually attempted this about two years ago, just winging it and making some measurements and throwing them at some craft supplies.  I wanted a cheap option that wasn't too difficult to repeat that way I wouldn't be discouraged from making multiple ships.  So I limited it to cheap crafting materials like foamcore, wooden dials, popsicle sticks, and thumbtacks.  And the result wasn't  bad.  Especially for my first attempt at any kind of terrain building.


      It actually turned out rather nice!  To my surprise.  But I got hung up on mast and sail designs and never finished.

      The wood on the deck had 2x1in grid carved into it for easier D&D use.

      and the figurehead was designed to be modular.

      However, overtime the boat collected dust and little scratches.  I should have given it a coat of mod podge or sealant of some kind, but never did.  And eventually it had an unfortunate run in with an injured owl that we took in for a night.

      Here's the little devil himself.
       
      Anyways, I put this project on the back burner for long enough and feel inspired to dive back in.  Especially with a certain Bones ship on the Horizon that I'm still on the fence about getting.  I was doing some browsing on the web and recently found this wonderful little blog complete with loose instructions and a plan from a now defunct wargamming site.  The blog creator had found the old plan and adapted it to build something using most of the same materials I have already stockpiled. 


      There's a few choices that I like better than my first attempt so I think I'm going to use this as some inspiration as I give this boat thing another go.

      My hold up now is still those darn masts.  The original plan above used wood and required drilling out holes for the masts.  The blogger use foam for his ship and found random bits of tubing to house his masts.  I could try to find something random like that, but I was hoping to find something simpler for easy repetition.  And I would also like to keep the masts loose so they can be removed for easy storage, or to swap out the sails.  Any thoughts?

      Any resources, tips, recommendations are very welcome!  I'll post back here with any updates.

    • By Otyugh
      This is my filthy first.
       
      I finally gave in and purchased one of the Bones figures. It is the otyugh-ish filth beast by Bob Ridolfi.
       

      It is a big change from the metal minis I usually purchase. The material is way bendy, almost like a green Gumby toy.


      The coolest thing is the way it is baka yoke, and all the pieces are "keyed" to a hole. I would have to try really hard to mess up the assembly on this one!

  • Who's Online   14 Members, 0 Anonymous, 34 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...