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    • By DragonWyrm
      The Medium
      I personally find the blended fibers medium by Liquitex to be a highly versatile medium. It can be added to any ground mixture to add the appearance of natural roots and similar debris. In this tutorial I will be looking at how to make an ice base using it. It is important to remember that in most cases the ice is hardly crystal clear and instead it generally appears cloudy white. The blended fibbers have a slight translucency which allows for the illusion of depth, while each fiber acts like a crack in the ice.


      The Ice
      Step 1: Base colour

      Use a dark base. Then tint it with the colour you want. In this case I used Cerulean Blue. This step can be skipped if you are going to be tinting the medium instead (thought a darker base colour is still advised)

      Step 2: Apply Fiber Medium

      Slather on a large dollop of medium. You can add some colour to tint it, but the colour will change significantly as it dries so be carful to not overpower it (you don't even need to mix it well as streaking colours may be desired). Transparent colours work better for tinting if you still want to retain the depth. In this case I did not tint it.

      Step 3: Smooth the Medium

      I did this by wetting a pallet knife and running it over the surface, followed by cleaning up the edges. The Fiber medium is extremely easy to smooth with a wet pallet knife. The thickness decides how much translucency the final product has.

      Step 4: Let it Dry

      In this case I liked how it looked so I decided not to dry brush it with white. Drybrushing with white would make it look more frosty.  This took a couple hours for me, mostly due to the thickness I chose. You can see how the blue is showing in the photo, that is the undercoat peaking through.


      The Snow 
      Step 1: Snow

      Mix some medium with Titanium white. This will make a nice snow texture

      Step 2: Applying Snow

      Apply the snow and feather it out with a brush, the feathering out makes it look more realistic. If you don't want peaks use water to smooth the snow (unless you want peaks to represent sticks in the snow.)

      Step 3: Let it Dry 

      The base is now finished. 


      The Miniature

      Put a miniature on it. Thats what a base is for. Unless you want to use it as a trap in DnD or some terrain.
       
    • By Metalchaos
      Hey everyone, it's been a while since I posted. I was working on a large model. I painted this terrain piece mainly with Reaper MSP paint.
       
      The stones were painted with 9088 Stormy Grey and 9089 Cloudy Grey. For the non-metallic metal (NMM) copper on the roof, I used 09030 Leather Brown, 09031 Tanned Leather, 29825 Tusk Ivory and 09039 Pure White. Then, for the verdigris I used a blend of 29848 Jungle Camo, 09294 Alien Goo and 09282 Maggot White. The shingles were painted with 09028 Muddy Brown, 09030 Leather Brown, 09031 Tanned Leather and 29825 Tusk Ivory. I also added rust effect on the metal parts using 09028 Muddy Brown and 09469 Fireball Orange. I finally added shading with a 09255 Black Wash on some areas to give more contrast to the stones and shingles.
       
      This Windmill is the second Tabletop World I paint for the hamlet I'm building. I painted it in the same fashion as the Water Well I did two months ago. I will build a base for the windmill later.
      If you look carefully, you'll see I added six decorative anchor plates on the windmill wall. I designed these structural reinforcements in Inventor software, prepared a program in Chitubox and printed them on my new resin 3D printer. I broke one of them when I removed it from the print supports but I think it’s even more interesting and realistic this way. As you can see on the last pictures, the anchor plates are about 14mm long and only 2mm think.
       
      Have a great weekend!
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       
      Windmill next to the Water Well

       
      Model design in Inventor

       
      3D print program in Chitubox

       
      14mm long anchor plates

    • By TGP
      Our Anti-Hero Rictur Diehn the Assassin (2430) has decided to build a Wet Palette**
       
       
      PARTS LIST:
      Peanut Butter Jar Lid, 90mm, culled from recycle bin Peanut Butter Jar Lid, 85mm, culled from recycle bin Paper Towels, Bounty Brand, nicked from kitchen Parchment Paper, Reynolds Brand, nicked from kitchen Copper Wire, Solid, 3mm OD, purchased from Home Depot for $0.63 / foot  
      QUANTITIES (In Order):
      (1), (1), (4 half sheets), (2 layers), (10--12 inches (255-300mm) )  
       
      #Searchwords
      TGPTGP;  acid washed; Palette; Recycle Bin; Scratchbuilt; Plastic Lids; Copper
      **With some off camera help from Pendrake The Griffon
    • By Darcstaar
      These were the third installment of my Bones 1 WIPs.
      Which is metal?  Which is BONES?
      You'll have to check out the WIP to decide!
      https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/86504-darcstaar-vs-bones-1-ep-3-oxidation-beast/&tab=comments#comment-1834708
       
      Hope you enjoy, and I hope it helps people see that there isn't always a loss of detail between BONES and Pewter.
      C&C Welcome.



    • By Darcstaar
      Since Callie is coming to a close, I have been preparing the Oxidation Beast.
       
      I have one in metal also, so I will paint both together.
       
      I had some 40mm hollow, round lipped bases that seem like a good fit.  I used some styrene model train cobblestone for one, and sculpted dressed stone tiles for the other.
       

       
      I plan for one to use the 5th Edition Monster Manual color scheme (Bones)

       
      And the metal one to follow the Pathfinder Bestiary 1 color scheme.  It has a red with black stipple color scheme.
       

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