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Sirithiliel

Siri's Sea Serpent Sculpt

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...is underway! Ha!

So far, just concept art. I'm going to try and start the armature today  ^_^ I'm also going to try a chinese dragon later on, so that's what that drawing is for

 

 

 

 

post-12758-0-81043600-1410120773_thumb.jpg

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They don't look like much right now, and my new Green Stuff won't come in until Wednesday, so this will have to tide you guys over until then =) [chinese dragon on the left, serpent on the right]

post-12758-0-09760700-1410140273_thumb.jpg

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Looking good.  I especially like the sea serpent.

 

A couple points for you though on the engineering of these:

 

1. The wire looks a bit frail to support that much mini.  Might want to go with either a thicker wire, or add a layer of GS:Apoxie Sculpt (or Milliput if you don't have Apoxie) blend to the whole wire to strengthen it.  Otherwise, it will be wobbling on you as you try to sculpt.

2.  I can't quite see what you are trying to do with the head on the sea serpent, but consider ending the armature for it in a downward S curve for the lower jaw.  Don't sculpt the head and fins on the mini, instead sculpt them as a separate piece that will fit over the lower jaw (think back to how the wyvern I sculpted came; it's head was sculpted separately on a separate armature).  This can then be cast in a different plane and will require less cutting and fewer parts later.

3. Secure the corks on the Oriental dragon together some how (A couple clothes hanger wire rods cut to the right length and shoved into the cork sides should work).  The point is, you don't want them flexing apart as you move the model around or things will break and stretch that you don't want broken or stretched.

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Good points, thanks Andy!! My green stuff came in today [and i scored some clearance Kneadatite from my FLGS today] so I'll definitely thicken the wire with some before i start sculpting, and will redo the head of the serpent appropriately =3

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I like the concept art!  It's got a nice fishy look to it but still with a lot of personality.

 

Thanks! I'm excited to finally try and turn my sketches into real sculpts  ::D:

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Excellent!  Underpinning looks good.

 

 

Here are the Wyvern WIP pictures I promised in our PM:

 

Head (No armature pictures, but it was two parts soldered together; a U for the horns and the part that goes to the cork extends into the nose.):

 

post-140-0-87699000-1410229287.jpg

 

 

Body in various stages:

 

post-140-0-79394800-1410229628.jpg post-140-0-51478200-1410229285.jpg

 

post-140-0-27359000-1410229286_thumb.jpg  post-140-0-79305700-1410229286.jpg

 

Note: The wings were wrong as shown in this picture.  I hadn't known what I was doing.  After sending to Reaper I had to rebuild them with brass sheet under the membranes. I also had to change the leg position, moving one down I believe.  The back spines also needed to change as these would have causes a gating nightmare in the mold.

 

 

 

I hope this helps Siri.

 

Andy

Edited by TaleSpinner
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Ooh it really helps to see the process to get to where he is at now! Thanks so much!! So I build the head separately...what would you suggest for the head fins? They might be too complicated for my current skill level but they add so much to the design...

Also, do you think the back fin will cause issues like your spines did?

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No, your fins should be fine, but they will need to be supported by brass sheet.  You want to get sheet that is thin enough to cut with a heavy scissors, yet heavy enough to provide good support.

 

Cut your fin shapes out of the brass sheet and then put thin layers of GS over the sheet.  You can also add the spine shapes right onto the sheet without a wire. I'll try to take a picture of WIP I have at home now that has a fin armature cut from brass sheet tonight.

 

You should also consider your engineering a bit on this one yet.  See the following:

 

 

post-140-0-80188200-1410267203.jpg

 

 

With the fin down the back, you need to ensure that it will be in the mold correctly.  To that end, I'd pull the head more forward and the tail more rearward.  You will need to cut the mini in the middle for casting, but you can do that with a jeweler's saw after it is done and accepted.  I've marked these changes in red in the above photo.  Remember when sculpting you need to think about the plane of the mold.  It can only vary by about 15 degrees.  Things that stick into the mold are possible, but would be better (and more likely accepted) it they don't go as far into the mold or have to be cut into as many pieces.

 

Does that make sense?

Edited by TaleSpinner
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