Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
djizomdjinn

03078: Pearl the Mermaid (nudity)

Recommended Posts

Start: http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n14/djizomdjinn/Miniatures/1ox4RKx.jpg~original

 

Current: http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n14/djizomdjinn/Miniatures/IMG_9479.jpg

 

The only real conversion I did was cut a sword off a Reaper weapon pack and glue it in her hand. She looked and felt kind of unbalanced beforehand.

Gloss is a result of future floor polish. I didn't prime the mini, so flecks kept chipping off her hair and fins.

Things left to do: Paint the sword blade (waiting on some interference paint), dull down and reshade the hair, base on something.

Critique, comments greatly appreciated.

Edited by djizomdjinn
  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the colour on those scales and the way you worked down into the blues is excellent. Looking forward to seeing how you add depth to the red hair (red hair is very hard for me).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Armband? Wasn't there an armband on the model?

...Did superglue ooze out and just make one? Whoops. I mean, I meant to do that.

Didn't do much today, just tested out some model master dull sealer. Seems to work pretty well, and smoothed everything, though it might have dissolved some of the paint on her skin. Didn't work so well on a bones figure with much less paint on it.

Spilled a good bunch of the pearlescent paint I used on her scales. While it didn't ruin any models thankfully, it frustrated me enough that working on models right now is a very bad idea. So, time to google redheads, because I have no idea how to add depth to red hair either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n14/djizomdjinn/Miniatures/mermaid2.jpg

A bit of black wash to make the pearl scales stick out a bit more, and then back over with pearl because I overdid it. Walnut brown and Tanned Leather (sure... close enough to blond for me)  for hair highlights / depth. Another dip in Future, because I like shiny objects. A hint of Noir Black on the tips of the fins for contrast.

Played around with the sword a bit, while waiting for new paint to arrive. I think the final shade will be orange/interference green, instead of the yellow/blue I have right now.

Edited by djizomdjinn
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, um, I got some interference paints. For those of you not in the know, they're essentially tinted metallics- with the important difference that the base color is colorless. Therefore, you can layer it onto colors different from the tint, either slightly or completely opposite, and get some interesting effects.

Among these paints was a green.

Directions say that they show up best on black / dark colors.

I figured, sure, why not, try it on the fins / scales.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n14/djizomdjinn/Miniatures/IMG_9479.jpg

Wow. Probably going to have to dial it back somewhat, but... wow.

Definitely going on my Bones dragons, whenever I feel confident enough to start painting them. And probably a few models besides...

On a side note, orange / interference blue isn't working so great. I think that blue / interference orange is the way I'm supposed to do it.

Edited by djizomdjinn
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ooo... where did you get those?

yes please do let us know as they are definitly a type of paint I think would work great on scales or fairy wings.

Edited by robinh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

She's looking gorgeous and I definitely also would like to know where you picked up the interference paints!

 

Also, what colour(s) did you use on her fins in the very first "Start" picture?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can find interference paints at your local art store, if you have one (and I mean serious art store, as in sells high-end brushes and paints). If not, Amazon or your online retailer of choice should carry them. If all else fails, DickBlick will have them, but their shipping costs are rather high if you're just getting interference paints.

Golden makes very good artist acrylics, and is what I bought since I've used their paints before and I like them (painting canvas is my real job, minis are my hobby). They carry six colors of interference paint, in both normal and fine grinds of the mica powder suspended in the paint. Unless you're looking for a very specific sparkle effect, I'd advise you to buy the finely ground paints. They also offer two "color-travel" interference paints, and from what I gather these actually change color depending on the viewing angle. Unfortunately, according to their spec sheet, these are fairly thick paints, and as far as I can tell only come in a normal grind.

Liquitex also offers a lineup of interference colors, but I can't comment on those, never having used them. Liquitex as a company makes good paints... it's just that I've been spoiled by the Goldens.

For an alternative, Pearl-Ex pigments also come in interference powders. For those of you that paint minis with dry pigments (I've been told it's a technique?), that may be the solution for you. Again, haven't used, can't comment.

Now, as for colors used... might as well break it down, for anyone who's interested. Maybe for myself, in case I forget.

Hair: Reaper Lava Orange, Tanned Leather, Walnut Brown. Maybe a bit of Holbein Burnt Sienna, I don't quite remember.
Skin: Reaper Fair Skin/Imperial Purple 50-50 mix. Imperial Purple, Old West Rose, Tanned Skin, Fair Skin used for shading and highlights.
Scales and Fins: ComArt Airbrush Opaque Pearlescent, fading down to Holbein Viridian*, washed with Reaper Black Wash and more Holbein Viridian.
Sword Handle and Armband: Testors Enamel Copper**.
Sword Blade: Reaper Denim Blue / Golden Interference Orange.

*Interestingly enough, Holbein lists all the dyes and pigments used in their paint. Viridian is simply pure Phlato Green, which can be found as a basic color in practically any reputable artists' paints manufacturer.
** Not sure how well enamels work on Bonesium, or white metal for that matter. I've had the occasional failure to set with them, but as long as they're laid down thinly and in layers, they seem to work fine?

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×