Completed Basius 2: The Deluxe Stamp Pad Terrain Tile & Basing System

[ratsmitglied]

I'm interested in these pending postage costs - I skipped their first one because the postage cost for 2 bases was 24 pounds, which is more than I was willing to spend (and I didn't like enough designs, or have sufficient free funds, to go to a higher pledge level.

[Knight of the Dinner Table]

What drew me away from CMoN was:

 

- I can have any size and form of base I need (round, square, 20mm, 25mm and bigger, even much bigger than what CMoN is offering)

- I have A LOT of different options for my bases

- I only liked two of CMoN's designs ... with Basius, I really have to think long and hard which pads I don't want ...

[tiniest rhombus]

not long now until we all see the grey masters in full anyways :)

 

CreatorWargames Bakeryabout 5 hours ago

Morning all! & THANKS Jessica - I will update the front page shortly. Ive been learning about web building last eve until the early hours - so i think ive cracked how to get big images to blow up nicely on the website - will try it today and tell you once the photos are up :) Once that's working i can make the KS main page much neater! PHEW - talk about an INTENSIVE project!!! hahaha.

 

[Sanael]

I really hope we see shipping quotes within the next three days. CMoN ends in five days, and I'd like some time to compare final costs of both. I like both products, but can only do one KS. Pending shipping, I'd prefer Basius.

 

Of course, if there is no shipping quote before CMoN ends, if I end up not liking the quote, I will probably just continue making bases as I always have and be just fine, so more delay makes my wallet happier.

 

The bottom line is that Basius doesn't get my pledge until I see a solid estimate on shipping costs.

[tiniest rhombus]

What drew me away from CMoN was:

 

- I can have any size and form of base I need (round, square, 20mm, 25mm and bigger, even much bigger than what CMoN is offering)

- I have A LOT of different options for my bases

- I only liked two of CMoN's designs ... with Basius, I really have to think long and hard which pads I don't want ...

This

As a fairly new painter, I jumped into basing the same way I jumped into painting. Which was something like...Why would anyone want to paint those tiny things...I think I'll try painting this tiny thing...Painting this tiny thing is FUN. Basing my minis took the same route. CMoN has a few cool bases that I personally don't need a bunch of. I like the idea of a common, yet diverse theme. I like the idea of making a humongo base or taking a tiny detail and adding it to something else or making up some dungeon tiles.

 

In the long run, these will be cheaper. Milliput is 8 bucks, less if you have a coupon. There is always a coupon. They are double sided, They are reusable. I just love the idea of them.

 

Concerns about shipping costs are completely understandable, I am also concerned about them, exchange rates are also a concern. I'm still in though. My family doesn't need heat this winter right?

[Heisler]

I saw this in the Kickstarter comments and I thought I would paste it here since it features actual results using different epoxy mixes including combining Milliput and Green Stuff which would never have occurred to me to try.

 

Hi all, I did some stamping today with different putties. I didn't do photos as there was really only 1 putty that OI found to be difficult

In all cases I let the putty sit 10 minutes to get a bit of curing to decrease the stickiness, and then stamped after wetting the surface completely, . My impressions are this

White Superfine putty was overly stiff, and I found it difficult to press out small details (I used a sewer grate with about a 0.5 mm bar width). I suppose you could add water, but I think the superfine putty will get used for gaps on larger models

green stuff, looked great

milliput regular, looked great

milliput mixed with about 15% green stuff, no better or worse than either green stuff or milliput, however was a little nicer to work with than straight up milliput (you do need to mix each kind separately, then mix them together)

apoxy putty: very similar to milliput, but a bit stickier, the results came out about the same as the 3 above, but just not as nice to work with. OTOH, you can buy apoxy putty by the kilo at sculpture supply stores, use only the neutral colour, the other colours don't work quite as nice)

my conclusion: for price you are best off with milliput or apoxy putty, making your putty a little nicer to work with will cost you a bit of greensuff, but not required. I suspect for larger bases that the milliput with green stuff or straight up green stuff will lift off the resin easier

milliput superfine was very hard to press on the mold, resulting in not getting a nice even impression, and the fact that milliput is cdn$8 for 4 oz and superfine is cdn$20. O can get 4 pz of green stuff for cdn$13, so milliput superfine is something I won't be buying in the future)

Edited September 30, 2014 by Heisler

[Reaperbryan]

I saw this in the Kickstarter comments and I thought I would paste it here since it features actual results using different epoxy mixes including combining Milliput and Green Stuff which would never have occurred to me to try.

 

Hi all, I did some stamping today with different putties. I didn't do photos as there was really only 1 putty that OI found to be difficult

In all cases I let the putty sit 10 minutes to get a bit of curing to decrease the stickiness, and then stamped after wetting the surface completely, . My impressions are this

White Superfine putty was overly stiff, and I found it difficult to press out small details (I used a sewer grate with about a 0.5 mm bar width). I suppose you could add water, but I think the superfine putty will get used for gaps on larger models

green stuff, looked great

milliput regular, looked great

milliput mixed with about 15% green stuff, no better or worse than either green stuff or milliput, however was a little nicer to work with than straight up milliput (you do need to mix each kind separately, then mix them together)

apoxy putty: very similar to milliput, but a bit stickier, the results came out about the same as the 3 above, but just not as nice to work with. OTOH, you can buy apoxy putty by the kilo at sculpture supply stores, use only the neutral colour, the other colours don't work quite as nice)

my conclusion: for price you are best off with milliput or apoxy putty, making your putty a little nicer to work with will cost you a bit of greensuff, but not required. I suspect for larger bases that the milliput with green stuff or straight up green stuff will lift off the resin easier

milliput superfine was very hard to press on the mold, resulting in not getting a nice even impression, and the fact that milliput is cdn$8 for 4 oz and superfine is cdn$20. O can get 4 pz of green stuff for cdn$13, so milliput superfine is something I won't be buying in the future)

This is going to sound a silly question - I'll be making some larger pieces, and a lot of them. Which material, after curing, is the lightest? Weight, not color value.

[tiniest rhombus]

 

I saw this in the Kickstarter comments and I thought I would paste it here since it features actual results using different epoxy mixes including combining Milliput and Green Stuff which would never have occurred to me to try.

 

Hi all, I did some stamping today with different putties. I didn't do photos as there was really only 1 putty that OI found to be difficult

In all cases I let the putty sit 10 minutes to get a bit of curing to decrease the stickiness, and then stamped after wetting the surface completely, . My impressions are this

White Superfine putty was overly stiff, and I found it difficult to press out small details (I used a sewer grate with about a 0.5 mm bar width). I suppose you could add water, but I think the superfine putty will get used for gaps on larger models

green stuff, looked great

milliput regular, looked great

milliput mixed with about 15% green stuff, no better or worse than either green stuff or milliput, however was a little nicer to work with than straight up milliput (you do need to mix each kind separately, then mix them together)

apoxy putty: very similar to milliput, but a bit stickier, the results came out about the same as the 3 above, but just not as nice to work with. OTOH, you can buy apoxy putty by the kilo at sculpture supply stores, use only the neutral colour, the other colours don't work quite as nice)

my conclusion: for price you are best off with milliput or apoxy putty, making your putty a little nicer to work with will cost you a bit of greensuff, but not required. I suspect for larger bases that the milliput with green stuff or straight up green stuff will lift off the resin easier

milliput superfine was very hard to press on the mold, resulting in not getting a nice even impression, and the fact that milliput is cdn$8 for 4 oz and superfine is cdn$20. O can get 4 pz of green stuff for cdn$13, so milliput superfine is something I won't be buying in the future)

This is going to sound a silly question - I'll be making some larger pieces, and a lot of them. Which material, after curing, is the lightest? Weight, not color value.

 

I'll pop your question over to the kickstarter comments. One of the of the backers over there did the testing. It's a good question.

[Heisler]

 

I saw this in the Kickstarter comments and I thought I would paste it here since it features actual results using different epoxy mixes including combining Milliput and Green Stuff which would never have occurred to me to try.

 

Hi all, I did some stamping today with different putties. I didn't do photos as there was really only 1 putty that OI found to be difficult

In all cases I let the putty sit 10 minutes to get a bit of curing to decrease the stickiness, and then stamped after wetting the surface completely, . My impressions are this

White Superfine putty was overly stiff, and I found it difficult to press out small details (I used a sewer grate with about a 0.5 mm bar width). I suppose you could add water, but I think the superfine putty will get used for gaps on larger models

green stuff, looked great

milliput regular, looked great

milliput mixed with about 15% green stuff, no better or worse than either green stuff or milliput, however was a little nicer to work with than straight up milliput (you do need to mix each kind separately, then mix them together)

apoxy putty: very similar to milliput, but a bit stickier, the results came out about the same as the 3 above, but just not as nice to work with. OTOH, you can buy apoxy putty by the kilo at sculpture supply stores, use only the neutral colour, the other colours don't work quite as nice)

my conclusion: for price you are best off with milliput or apoxy putty, making your putty a little nicer to work with will cost you a bit of greensuff, but not required. I suspect for larger bases that the milliput with green stuff or straight up green stuff will lift off the resin easier

milliput superfine was very hard to press on the mold, resulting in not getting a nice even impression, and the fact that milliput is cdn$8 for 4 oz and superfine is cdn$20. O can get 4 pz of green stuff for cdn$13, so milliput superfine is something I won't be buying in the future)

This is going to sound a silly question - I'll be making some larger pieces, and a lot of them. Which material, after curing, is the lightest? Weight, not color value.

 

 

That's a good question. We should probably hit up the sculptors on that one.

[Lovejoy]

Never used apoxy putty, but milliput is definitely heavier than green stuff. But in the volumes used on most mini bases, the weight difference will be very small.

[tiniest rhombus]

From Grant- weight wise there isn't a lot of difference, if you are building up a display base, or need to fill a deep base I would use some cork first, then put the putty over the cork at the desired thickness, then stamp

[Dontfear]

I feel like green stuff is lighter than pretty much everything but I could be wrong.

[MonkeySloth]

If I was doing very large pieces, like for terrain, I'd use sculpty.  It's cheap, about as heavy as everything else (though I do think it's slightly lighter from a strictly observational standpoint), and if it breaks no big deal because it's cheap.  Plus you can stamp, bake and paint within an hour or so depending on how thick you make it.

Edited September 30, 2014 by MonkeySloth

[KruleBear]

IIRC lots of modelers blend milliput with Greanstuff when the want sharper edges That can be achieved with milliput. Greanstuff is better for organic shapes and milliput is better for clean sharp edged shapes. If you search the cmon forumns for sculpting and Enion he has a lot of good info on sculpting materials (and greenstuff and milliput are not his first choices).

[CorallineAlgae]

IIRC lots of modelers blend milliput with Greanstuff when the want sharper edges That can be achieved with milliput. Greanstuff is better for organic shapes and milliput is better for clean sharp edged shapes. If you search the cmon forumns for sculpting and Enion he has a lot of good info on sculpting materials (and greenstuff and milliput are not his first choices).

 

Yes but sculpting is not the same as base stamping. There are some excellent putties for molds and stamps that are not intended or recommended for sculpting.