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I personally find the blended fibers medium by Liquitex to be a highly versatile medium. It can be added to any ground mixture to add the appearance of natural roots and similar debris. In this tutorial I will be looking at how to make an ice base using it. It is important to remember that in most cases the ice is hardly crystal clear and instead it generally appears cloudy white. The blended fibbers have a slight translucency which allows for the illusion of depth, while each fiber acts like a crack in the ice.
Step 1: Base colour
Use a dark base. Then tint it with the colour you want. In this case I used Cerulean Blue. This step can be skipped if you are going to be tinting the medium instead (thought a darker base colour is still advised)
Step 2: Apply Fiber Medium
Slather on a large dollop of medium. You can add some colour to tint it, but the colour will change significantly as it dries so be carful to not overpower it (you don't even need to mix it well as streaking colours may be desired). Transparent colours work better for tinting if you still want to retain the depth. In this case I did not tint it.
Step 3: Smooth the Medium
I did this by wetting a pallet knife and running it over the surface, followed by cleaning up the edges. The Fiber medium is extremely easy to smooth with a wet pallet knife. The thickness decides how much translucency the final product has.
Step 4: Let it Dry
In this case I liked how it looked so I decided not to dry brush it with white. Drybrushing with white would make it look more frosty. This took a couple hours for me, mostly due to the thickness I chose. You can see how the blue is showing in the photo, that is the undercoat peaking through.
Step 1: Snow
Mix some medium with Titanium white. This will make a nice snow texture
Step 2: Applying Snow
Apply the snow and feather it out with a brush, the feathering out makes it look more realistic. If you don't want peaks use water to smooth the snow (unless you want peaks to represent sticks in the snow.)
Step 3: Let it Dry
The base is now finished.
Put a miniature on it. Thats what a base is for. Unless you want to use it as a trap in DnD or some terrain.
Our Anti-Hero Rictur Diehn the Assassin (2430) has decided to build a Wet Palette**
Peanut Butter Jar Lid, 90mm, culled from recycle bin Peanut Butter Jar Lid, 85mm, culled from recycle bin Paper Towels, Bounty Brand, nicked from kitchen Parchment Paper, Reynolds Brand, nicked from kitchen Copper Wire, Solid, 3mm OD, purchased from Home Depot for $0.63 / foot
QUANTITIES (In Order):
(1), (1), (4 half sheets), (2 layers), (10--12 inches (255-300mm) )
TGPTGP; acid washed; Palette; Recycle Bin; Scratchbuilt; Plastic Lids; Copper
**With some off camera help from Pendrake The Griffon
Good day everyone, I've been working on a diorama display for some time now and I thought some of you may like the see my progress. I used AutoCad for my sketches and Inventor to build the 3D model. Then I used Blender to texture the model and Slicer to generate de code for my Prusa printer. The following pictures are the steps I went through so far. It’s my first big project. It's taking long but it's a learning experience. Let me know what you think about it so far.
The first image is a screenshot of the final model in Inventor.
Some sketches in AutoCad software.
Floor part in Invetor software.
Generating the code of the floor in Prusa Slicer software.
I got a printing error while printing the floor. The plastic filament and I had to stop the print.
On the next picture, we can see how the parts are on the inside. There is some supports but most of the part is empty to save on printing time and material.
I decided to print the remining floor tiles individually to salvage what I had already been printing. I then glued each tile on the base.
I had another printing error on the column, and I had the print another one.
The column was printed at the highest level of quality my Prusa i3 MK3S can print, which is at a 0.05mm of precision.
The arch was also printed at 0.05mm.
The level of detail is amazing. Even the ring was printed flawlessly without support.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly after I completed texturing it in Blender.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly in Slicer. I generated the code with supports to make sure the door arch would be print perfectly.
It looks perfect like this, so I didn’t see a problem coming.
Some parts of mu model were not right, there were some gaps. The software filled these gaps with support material, so when I see the issue, I decided not to stop the printing session. The support material is showing in drak green the the simulation.
After, when I generated the code without support, I could clearly see the gaps. I think this happened because there were errors, holes I didn’t correct or masking I didn’t remove, on the model I imported from Blender. I will need to investigate farther.
See the result after I removed all the support. Removing the support takes forever by the way. I’ll try to avoid supports if possible, in the future.
Here’s a picture of the wall. It took 40 hours to print only and probably another 40 hours to build, texture and clean the model. I still need to fill the gaps the Greenstuff.
Here are all the parts I printed for this project.
And, all the parts together. I haven’t glue anything yet. There is still some sanding and cleaning to do. I will paint each part separately.
I patched the gaps with liquid Green Stuff.
Closeup of the first layer of liquid Green Stuff.
I converted a 02712 Eye Best from Reaper Miniatures. This is the pewter version of model that was sculpted by Julie Guthrie. I added eye stalks from the 03440 Creature Components II, also from Reaper.
The Eye Best will be pinned on the wall and the door. All the adventurers I'll be displaying on the diorama are from Reaper Miniatures Dungeon Dwellers brand. From left to right; 07012 Caerindra Thistlemoor, 07004 Stitch Thimbletoe, 07002 Baran Blacktree and 07008 Luwin Phost.
The models can be moved from a recess to another to allow different layouts.
More to come soon!
This is the Reaper Bones 77371 Basilisk sculpted by Julie Guthrie. It's quite small - about the size of a large dog, with a wonderfully grouchy visage.
I painted it up fairly quickly to illustrate a video about how yellow and black can be mixed to make greens. This was an example of the less vivid greens (For a really vivid yellow-and-black green, see my She-Hulk Show-Off thread). All the colors on the critter were mixed just from yellow (mostly Yellow Ochre, but also a little Hansa Yellow), black, and white.
The video is here, if anyone cares to watch it.
This is Reaper's magnificent 50212 "Incredible Woman," sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
She's a great figure that can be painted up like a lot of (tall - she's a big one) women superheroes. Wonder Woman is on my wish list, and maybe Captain Marvel one day.
This version is Marvel's She-Hulk from her classic days as one of the Fantastic Four, replacing Ben Grimm for a time.
As a materials and techniques note, I didn't use any green or blue pigments in her skin. It's all mixed from yellow and black. This was partly to prove a point and is kind of central in the art video I posted on YouTube last week: Yellow and Black Make Green.