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So, a coworker and fellow painter gave me a bunch of unwanted Warhammer Underworlds Shadespire minis, so uh... Guess that's mostly what you guys will be seeing from me in the near future!
As I'm just naturally inclined to orcs, and these guys look absolutely awesome, I painted Ironskull's Boyz first. Also, finally got my hands on some premade washes, so I ditched homemade watered down paints on these. Personally, I think it made 'em look pretty good!
The number of ants that tried to photobomb this shot was ridiculous.
The lighting on the individual shots was being weird, so sorry if some are darker and other lighter!
By Lidless Eye
Hadn't seen this here yet:
You enter the cavern with water dripping down from overhead. The smell of rotten meat is thick in the air. From up ahead in the distance you hear the loud battle cry of your enemy SQUEEEEEEE!
Painted by Ben Rodman Pig faced orcs. The most iconic encounter of any classic adventure. We have a nice variety of these little oinkers in the pen.
We enlisted the help of Bobby Jackson to sculpt the porcs and Jason Wiebe for all the pork besties. They did an awesome job.
Fortress Figures will be casting these beauties up in lead free white metal.
Any support for our small family owned business is greatly appreciated.
Painted by world renowned artist Rob Wheeler Painted by world renowned artist Rob Wheeler This project is for unpainted, white metal and/or resin figurines. Models are provided NOT painted. Models are scaled to 28mm toe to eye or 1:60. Models are provided with a plastic tab/slot base. Figurines are not toys and are intended only for adults. Models may require some assembly, may have sharp or pointed parts and are a choking hazard to anyone prone to put them in their mouth.
I backed for the Ettin(ess) Bodyguard myself
Matthias the Twisted was insanely fun to paint, he's definitely one of my favorite undead models, and one of Bobby Jackson's more eerie characters.
Despite it being the bane to Castlevania fans everywhere, i took inspiration for the hunter from Simon off of the cover of the Castlevania 2 box art. What a game haha. Sorry for the pictures being a bit blurry, but C&C is surely appreciated.
We all keep knick knacks and trinkets to make things from in the future. Whether it's some small bit, like dragon pendant I got from Salvation Army for 50 cents or some cardboard forms that hold tech devices in place that look like good buildings for Battletech.
I wrote about Bottlecaps as bases a while ago.
Recently, I found the plastic mounting bracket that's been floating around my bench and figured out what I wanted to start making. I usually draw out what I intend to do, but the shape of the bracket defined its purpose.
This compilation uses a bunch of various finds. So towards that end, I am going to have a little contest.
Guess all of the items which I used in here and you will get a random Bones mini. I will provide a numbered list and one clue because one SET is fairly hard to figure out.
5. ______ Bracket
Clue: These odd pieces were disassembled from a triangular cap.
The bricks are actual brick I bought off of Wish. I got the standard bricks plus the square in gray and brick red. I also have small triangles in brick red.
The stone was split length wise so it was nice and flat. The terrain is a custom grind of bark, black walnut bark, dark cork and and coarse normal cork.
The gears are from Michael's jewelry and findings section. Some of the white on the terrain is baking soda mixed with super glue.
Here's the piece primed...
Stay tuned and enjoy.
This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too.
I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme.
First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty.
2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced.
3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back.
4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye.
5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light.
6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together.
Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?
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