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So I picked up a second faction for Warmahordes...so in addition to my dragons I now have started developing an army of Angry Anime Elves in the form of Retribution of Scyrah.

 

I got the holiday alternate battlegroup plus the Discordia character jack upgrade to start.

 

My concept for this army is very anime in nature. The myrmidons (fancy elf warjacks) will be mostly black, with shimmery bits in purples and greens, and the infantry will be mostly in greys, also with purple and green bits. I plan to make most bladed weapons some kind of crystal or energy thing, and I want the rank and file to be pretty much stormtrooper-level indistinguishable from each other.

 

The warcasters, though, I plan to be pretty brightly colored. Starting with Ravyn, here. This is about four hours of work, and I'm not satisfied with the red armor...I want it to be very plastic-future in nature, so I tried with just some bright reflective lines, but I need to do...something with it.

 

Points if you know the anime character this is based on before clicking the spoiler tag below.

 

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The inspiration:

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Based on the art, I'm trying to beat my style into something very different than my usual. Any tips y'all have would be welcome.

 

I do have plans for the other pilots from that series, but I don't own those warcasters yet...and I'm not really trying to match them to the fluff PrivPress has provided, but it'll be a fun group once I have it all together.

Edited by Sanael
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I may end up doing a gloss coat on the armor, but I was hoping to just get the effect with paint. Or both. We'll see.

 

Anyway, spent a little time getting her gunspearstaff basecoated; no highlights on this yet:

 

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Ugh. Looking at this pic, I really need to clean up those white "highlights" on her armor...definitely jammed this mini right into the "asspoint" of painting with those.

Edited by Sanael
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Ugh. Looking at this pic, I really need to clean up those white "highlights" on her armor...definitely jammed this mini right into the "asspoint" of painting with those.

Red is hard to get to white without going through pink. Have you tried the method in the Khador book?

 

 

  1. Start with a solid basecoat of Khador Red Base. Apply this in a few layers to get the desired opacity with no patchiness. Avoid the temptation to speed things along by painting with thick paint straight from the bottle, since you’ll lose some detail and possibly cause problems later. Instead, be patient and apply even coats of slightly thinned paint; three to four coats should be about right.
  2. Use Sanguine Base for the first layer of shading. Apply the paint thin and blend it into the recesses and shadows.
  3. For the second layer of shading, mix Sanguine Base with Exile Blue and apply as deep shading. The color should be quite dark and more blue than red. Don’t worry if the shade seems intense; since we will be glazing later, we need exaggerated shading and highlighting for the desired effect.
  4. To highlight your red, add one or two small dots of Khador Red Base to Khador Red Highlight. Apply this mixture to the top portions of the armor and blend the highlights. You may want to apply a second highlight of just Khador Red Highlight to ease the transition to the next highlight stage, but it’s not absolutely necessary.
  5. For the final highlights use a mixture of Khador Red Highlight and Menoth White Highlight. This will yield a peachy color that may look wrong when you’re applying it, but remember that the highlights need to be exaggerated since we’ll be using glazing to unify the layers. For the best result, you may want to apply multiple highlight layers, adding more Menoth White Highlight to each successive layer.
  6. The final step uses glaze layers of Red Ink to tint the surface and unify the previous layers. Mix Red Ink with a large portion of clean water at a ratio of about 15:1 water to ink. Apply the glaze in super-smooth, even coats. It’s important that you allow absolutely no pooling, as this will cause rings to form. You can use a blow dryer to speed drying between coats if you prefer. At first the glaze effect will be barely noticeable, but it will become apparent as the layers build up. Be patient throughout the glazing process; it can take upwards of twelve layers to achieve the best results.

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Hmm. I haven't seen that write-up before, no. I do like it, though. For this particular armor, I really don't want to go through too many successive layers of highlight and shadow. I think I'm just concentrating too much on the "shiny means tiny highlights" idea...probably I do need more transition. Likely on Sunday I'll have some time to play with it a bit more; we'll see what I come up with.

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The Sanguine Base + Exile Blue is a cooler color. This method is more about making the highlights pop by cooling the shadows on a warm base color.

 Not sure your experience with NMM is.  Since I've been working through the LTPK 3:NMM I've notice that to create a shiny effect, place a cool color, such as the one above, below the highest highlight tends to create a shiny effect, if that the look your going for.  I'm still struggling with getting red to look right myself.

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NMM isn't something I've spent a lot of time with (I'm one of those that doesn't really like the look), but the dark-near-light concept is one I'm familiar with. And I generally love painting red (it's a pain in the tuchus, to be sure); but it's the non-metallic uber-shiny that I'd like to make happen here that's the issue. Sigh. Maybe it is time to do some NMM. It will create the shine I'm looking for...

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Sigh. Maybe it is time to do some NMM.

One must learn before one can un-learn. Look at the dividends it paid for my TMM. NMM taught me better blending and started my lessons on using contrast and blending techniques to represent materials (though I have a looong way to go, obviously). For sci-fi ceramic or whatever armor, you'll need to lean on some NMM foundations anyway.

 

Anyway, I don't think you're as far away as you think. Study the source art, the way the light flows along the armor. Use that as the guide for your highlights, rather than your stock highlighting method. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, but go for it. Look at how the highlight runs up through what looks like 3 layers, with a hard specular, almost blown-out top highlight.

 

One of the elusive goals I'm chasing is emulating that bloom-like reflective highlight, I got a little of it on Noreth's gold trim but it's soo tough to replicate convincingly.

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