Jump to content

Recommended Posts

So I picked up a second faction for Warmahordes...so in addition to my dragons I now have started developing an army of Angry Anime Elves in the form of Retribution of Scyrah.


I got the holiday alternate battlegroup plus the Discordia character jack upgrade to start.


My concept for this army is very anime in nature. The myrmidons (fancy elf warjacks) will be mostly black, with shimmery bits in purples and greens, and the infantry will be mostly in greys, also with purple and green bits. I plan to make most bladed weapons some kind of crystal or energy thing, and I want the rank and file to be pretty much stormtrooper-level indistinguishable from each other.


The warcasters, though, I plan to be pretty brightly colored. Starting with Ravyn, here. This is about four hours of work, and I'm not satisfied with the red armor...I want it to be very plastic-future in nature, so I tried with just some bright reflective lines, but I need to do...something with it.


Points if you know the anime character this is based on before clicking the spoiler tag below.







The inspiration:





Based on the art, I'm trying to beat my style into something very different than my usual. Any tips y'all have would be welcome.


I do have plans for the other pilots from that series, but I don't own those warcasters yet...and I'm not really trying to match them to the fluff PrivPress has provided, but it'll be a fun group once I have it all together.

Edited by Sanael
  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

I may end up doing a gloss coat on the armor, but I was hoping to just get the effect with paint. Or both. We'll see.


Anyway, spent a little time getting her gunspearstaff basecoated; no highlights on this yet:




Ugh. Looking at this pic, I really need to clean up those white "highlights" on her armor...definitely jammed this mini right into the "asspoint" of painting with those.

Edited by Sanael
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ugh. Looking at this pic, I really need to clean up those white "highlights" on her armor...definitely jammed this mini right into the "asspoint" of painting with those.

Red is hard to get to white without going through pink. Have you tried the method in the Khador book?



  1. Start with a solid basecoat of Khador Red Base. Apply this in a few layers to get the desired opacity with no patchiness. Avoid the temptation to speed things along by painting with thick paint straight from the bottle, since you’ll lose some detail and possibly cause problems later. Instead, be patient and apply even coats of slightly thinned paint; three to four coats should be about right.
  2. Use Sanguine Base for the first layer of shading. Apply the paint thin and blend it into the recesses and shadows.
  3. For the second layer of shading, mix Sanguine Base with Exile Blue and apply as deep shading. The color should be quite dark and more blue than red. Don’t worry if the shade seems intense; since we will be glazing later, we need exaggerated shading and highlighting for the desired effect.
  4. To highlight your red, add one or two small dots of Khador Red Base to Khador Red Highlight. Apply this mixture to the top portions of the armor and blend the highlights. You may want to apply a second highlight of just Khador Red Highlight to ease the transition to the next highlight stage, but it’s not absolutely necessary.
  5. For the final highlights use a mixture of Khador Red Highlight and Menoth White Highlight. This will yield a peachy color that may look wrong when you’re applying it, but remember that the highlights need to be exaggerated since we’ll be using glazing to unify the layers. For the best result, you may want to apply multiple highlight layers, adding more Menoth White Highlight to each successive layer.
  6. The final step uses glaze layers of Red Ink to tint the surface and unify the previous layers. Mix Red Ink with a large portion of clean water at a ratio of about 15:1 water to ink. Apply the glaze in super-smooth, even coats. It’s important that you allow absolutely no pooling, as this will cause rings to form. You can use a blow dryer to speed drying between coats if you prefer. At first the glaze effect will be barely noticeable, but it will become apparent as the layers build up. Be patient throughout the glazing process; it can take upwards of twelve layers to achieve the best results.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm. I haven't seen that write-up before, no. I do like it, though. For this particular armor, I really don't want to go through too many successive layers of highlight and shadow. I think I'm just concentrating too much on the "shiny means tiny highlights" idea...probably I do need more transition. Likely on Sunday I'll have some time to play with it a bit more; we'll see what I come up with.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Sanguine Base + Exile Blue is a cooler color. This method is more about making the highlights pop by cooling the shadows on a warm base color.

 Not sure your experience with NMM is.  Since I've been working through the LTPK 3:NMM I've notice that to create a shiny effect, place a cool color, such as the one above, below the highest highlight tends to create a shiny effect, if that the look your going for.  I'm still struggling with getting red to look right myself.

Link to post
Share on other sites

NMM isn't something I've spent a lot of time with (I'm one of those that doesn't really like the look), but the dark-near-light concept is one I'm familiar with. And I generally love painting red (it's a pain in the tuchus, to be sure); but it's the non-metallic uber-shiny that I'd like to make happen here that's the issue. Sigh. Maybe it is time to do some NMM. It will create the shine I'm looking for...

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Sigh. Maybe it is time to do some NMM.

One must learn before one can un-learn. Look at the dividends it paid for my TMM. NMM taught me better blending and started my lessons on using contrast and blending techniques to represent materials (though I have a looong way to go, obviously). For sci-fi ceramic or whatever armor, you'll need to lean on some NMM foundations anyway.


Anyway, I don't think you're as far away as you think. Study the source art, the way the light flows along the armor. Use that as the guide for your highlights, rather than your stock highlighting method. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, but go for it. Look at how the highlight runs up through what looks like 3 layers, with a hard specular, almost blown-out top highlight.


One of the elusive goals I'm chasing is emulating that bloom-like reflective highlight, I got a little of it on Noreth's gold trim but it's soo tough to replicate convincingly.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By MoonglowMinis
      I've got a bunch of amphibious friends to share with you all today!

      While in search of some suitable tribal-inspired Bullywug for my ongoing nautical campaign project, I stumbled upon these Croak Raiders from Privateer Press's Hordes.  these metal frogs perfectly balanced the jungle, tribal tree-frog look I wanted with the bulbous look of Bullywugs as opposed to the more nimble Grung who are often stylized as Poison Dart Frogs.  I absolutely fell in love with these frogs and their giant necks.  I was gifted a set during the holidays and quickly ordered Underchief Mire to stand in as the wannabe King of my Bullywug society.
      I used these frogs as a chance to get used to my airbrush and try out some other speed painting methods, but really struggled with the slog of painting of painting so many similar things.Especially picking out each knot on the ridiculous amount of rope these guys wear.  You can read a bit about my painting process, especially on my first test model, on this WIP thread HERE.
      For now, let's take a closer look at the finished frogs:
      Bullywug Throwers

      First up are these pot-throwing Bullywug.  The center one with the blue feathers was my test model.  Spent some time working out different techniques and color choices on him.  Ended up changing a few things to help the leather loin cloth stand out from the rope, but I largely got it right the first time.
      In the close ups below you can see a better view of the quiver which became a bane of my existence during this project.  All of the frogs, except for the chief, came with these matching quivers.  I could have left them unattached, but they felt incomplete without them and so I suffered through the arduous task of picking out all of the details on these ten times.
      More Photos:
      Bullywug Spearmen

      Next up are these warty frogs equipped with spear-launchers (or atlatl for you weapon-experts).  I like that the quivers that these guys wear contain both arrows and pots, making it seem as if all of the frogs have access to either method of fighting.  I particularly enjoyed the turtle shells on these guys, but getting paint into the tight gap between their right arms was hard.
      More Photos:
      Bullywug Pyros

      These roguish frog-men have stepped it up by igniting their spears.  I had a fun time keeping their faces in shadow by selectively highlighting them.  I also got to play around a bit with OSL.  If I had planned ahead better, I may have tried to paint these up as if they were partially in darkness for a more dramatic OSL look, but I prepped them along with the others for my standard daylight paintjob.  I did try to capture a bit of a warmer glow near the flames and along the right sides of the frogs.  I'm happy enough with it even if it's not super stylized or dramatic.
      More Photos:
      Bullywug Torch-Bearer

      This angry croaker came as the unit leader in the Croak Raiders box.  I was actually missing him originally, but Privateer Press quickly corrected the issue.  Had a bit of fun painting up his mouth and giving him some perfect little teeth ala' the Bullywug from NADDPOD.  He also got a bit of a glow around the torch.
      More Photos:
      Bullywug King

      This guy was just too much fun not to pick up.  Grumpy and serious.  I imagine the Bullywug adopted a mock-feudal society after briefly encountering human explorers.  They don't quite understand what it entails besides showering a king with riches in order to be stronger than your enemies.  I really like how this guy turned out.  Especially the gem on his crown and the texture on his stone blade.
      More Photos:
      I am normally not one to copy box art, but I really loved the look of these guys on the official art.  I borrowed heavily from those examples, but once I had started working on them, I allowed myself to get more creative.  I really like how the speckling on their bodies turned out, and am pleased that the Red, Yellow, and Blue quivers blend in well enough while still providing an easy visual distinction between individual units.
      These were really fun models and I'm very proud of the final results even if it took me a month longer to finish them than I had anticipated.
      What do you think?
    • By MoonglowMinis
      Recently set to work putting together a band of Bullywug using Privateer Press's Croak Raiders.

      Stumbled upon these guys while browsing black Friday sales and they perfectly fit my vision of tribal Bullywug but we're distinctly not Grung. The bulbous heads is what did it for me.
      My friend got me a set of Croak Raiders as an early Christmas gift and I ordered Underchief Mire to serve as a King. Also had to request a replacement part from Privateer Press as I received an incorrect extra body in place of the unique unit leader's.
      Finally received all my frogs and set about assembling. I mostly buy reaper bones, and the other brands I get tend to be plastic as well, so this was my first set of metal minis that required assembly and it was more difficult than I expected. Arms didn't slot into the body as neatly as I would have hoped and many broke off before the glue had set. I also wasn't too keen on needing to pin ten sets of arms. Hopefully the glue holds and I don't lose any arms during painting.
      For basing I decided to give another try to this instant-grout I picked up and used once before. It has a cool look, but is not very practical for standard minis. This was the conclusion I had drawn after the first time I used it, but now I'm certain. The grout will be reserved for large mini bases where my standard super glue and baking soda technique would be impractical. 
      As for coloration, I'm going to do something similar to the box art. Slightly inspired by the red-eyed tree frog. Green bodies with darker backs, and orange feet. Might play around with different spots, stripes, and eye markings just to add some variety. I want them to be vivid and colorful but I don't want to dip into the poison-dart-frog territory of Grung.
      Also considering trying out my airbrush for the first time to base coat these guys. We'll see if I work up the confidence. 
      As a side note, there are a few other unique Croak models in the Hordes line, but I was satisfied with just the unit and the Chief. But for others looking for some cool frog-men, there's a few more specialist models out there as well.
    • By Glitterwolf

    • By DragonWyrm
      I had it sitting on my bench for more than a year. Brought it on sale and it was nice working with such a heavy model, thought it did fall apart a couple times (Since I am not using it for gaming, I did not pin it).  The fourth picture seems to have the closest red to how it looks in real life.
      The Robot 

      Together with Friends

      Feedback and Critiques are welcome and appreciated. 
    • By Mutilatedlips
      Painted this to use in my upcoming DnD campaign....freakin hard to paint. I could tell this was going to be difficult for me from the get go, so much stuff. Sometimes I wish models had approximate difficulty levels on the boxes.
      The trio that the player characters will encounter are towards the bottom. 
      Players should be trudging though a swampy bayou for a bit before they encounter a soft candle light glow in the distance ahead of them. The magicked candles begin to block the players night vision as they get closer. If they turn away, the candlelight will wink out and reappear in front of them again. Eventually they will encounter Papa Hoodoo and his gator zombie constructs Leblanc and Boudreaux.  I may pick up a reaper dire gator as a possibility during the encounter.
      The pics below are more of a forest than swamp, but was having some fun with taking pictures this morning and I don't have any swamp terrain.





  • Who's Online   13 Members, 2 Anonymous, 60 Guests (See full list)

  • Create New...