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clears, translucents, inks comparison


lexomatic
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Today, I have a bit of time. Not enough to really paint, but enough to do something that may be useful to me AND to other forum-ites.

 

A week or so ago I bought those Badger Freak Flex translucent paints. I already had a bunch (but not all of) the Reaper Clear paints, and a few liquitex acrylic artist inks.

I'm going to do a comparison on some paper.

I think straight up, and then below 1:1 with matte medium

In all I think it's about 20 colours, and I'll try to keep stuff clearly defined by brand and color.

 

I suppose doing this over something like newsprint would be better, but I don't have any handy. Hopefully I'll be posting results later. If not, in the next few days.

I'll update later with a full list of the colors I'm using, but in the meantime, if you have requests/suggestions within reason... please post them below.

 

 

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When I started this, I discovered I had lost my paint book. I took this opportunity to start a new one

The full comparison chart

post-12970-0-09039600-1423429383_thumb.png

 

You can't tell as much from this photo, but the Freak Flex red is more magenta

Here is the breakdown of colors:

Freak flex (on the top row)
post-12970-0-85226500-1423428410_thumb.png

Left to Right on the chart

Yellow, Green, Red, Blue, Purple, Orange, Teal, Maroon, Brown, Black.

I was really impressed by these, actually. I can't wait to try them on a mini. Big bottles, serious agitator in the bottle. They were the most translucent of the stuff I looked at (though really all of them were to some extent). For the most part I didn't notice a difference in the color when adding medium (until you get to orange), but it was definitely smoother. For 35$ for the set of 10 paints this presents pretty good value. Totally makes me want to do a bunch of underpainting.The label says good for brush-on and airbrush. I wouldn't worry about what was said in the few youtube videos about it not being good for brush-on use.

Reaper & p3
post-12970-0-07630900-1423428451_thumb.png

P3 Turquoise ink was the next line. This is the only P3 product I own, but I wanted something this color.
3rd row was Reaper clears. I have the green and magenta somewhere.... but I couldn't find them for this exercise. I may update the photo at a later point if I do.

Left to Right: Yellow, Blue, Purple.

The clear Blue was especially hard to rinse out.

Liquitex
post-12970-0-27071900-1423428493_thumb.png

Left to right on the chart...

Phtalo Green (blue), Phtalo Green (yellow), Napthol Crimson, Prussian Blue, Dioxazine purple, Phtalo Blue (green), Burnt Sienna

Happy to learn that the burnt sienna would make for a good orange transition

Ignore the cerulean blue in that list... it's an opaque so I didn't include it (but fwiw, I could see the ruled pages as clearly as with any other product I tried. I also have "vivid lime green").

I found the phtalo colors really hard to rinse out and had to change out my water.

Edited by lexomatic
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Yes. Using a darker ink shows up great (such as dark green on the green bones). Using a lighter ink does not (yellow on orange).

So the translucent Bones 2 figures will react similarly- they appear rather dark in the previews pics.

 

With the various colours of ink, does this mean we can have cherry flavoured gelatinous cubes?

 

And Sir Forscale inside it would be Sir Pineapple Chunk?

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Here's something you might be well positioned to try.

 

Painting the translucent Bones (fire elementals, undead) with the translucent inks.

 

Has anybody tried inks on raw unprimed Bones?

 

  Yeah.  I've found that inks work a LOT better than a wash for definining details on the translucent Bones, and that translucent paints (in my case, the Tamiya Clear range) work very well indeed on them.

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