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the best tools to make gap feeling seamless?


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well sometimes the model has a "gap" where the two parts connect such as on the bloodthirsters bicep. its not a gap but its a line that shows up and you cant fill it only put something over it. would brush on sealer do that by itself? idk if it does that great

 

Yes, a layer of brush-on sealer (or other acrylic medium) works great as a finishing step over parts that you can't sand or file easily. 

 

Have you tried diamond-coated needle files or very fine metal needle files to get into those tight places?  Also try the plastic sanding needles that are popular for use on Bones models.  They work on metal, though they will wear more quickly than on Bones.  I have a diamond-coated bead reamer that can get into most gaps since it is very thin and has a nice point, too.  Dremel tools may also help you, such as the abrasive rubber polishers, though they won't get into the tight spots as well as other tools.

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well sometimes the model has a "gap" where the two parts connect such as on the bloodthirsters bicep. its not a gap but its a line that shows up and you cant fill it only put something over it. would brush on sealer do that by itself? idk if it does that great

 

Yes, a layer of brush-on sealer (or other acrylic medium) works great as a finishing step over parts that you can't sand or file easily. 

 

Have you tried diamond-coated needle files or very fine metal needle files to get into those tight places?  Also try the plastic sanding needles that are popular for use on Bones models.  They work on metal, though they will wear more quickly than on Bones.  I have a diamond-coated bead reamer that can get into most gaps since it is very thin and has a nice point, too.  Dremel tools may also help you, such as the abrasive rubber polishers, though they won't get into the tight spots as well as other tools.

 

none of my models are metal these days as im a GW gamer aside from not using any of there hobby supplys/paint

 

do you have an exact name for these files i can look up?

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I mix my GS with 50% Apoxie Sculpt. GS doesn't like water very much, but the mix (due to the Apoxie) smooths out very well with water.

 

Plus, it acts as a good filler for GS, since it's 5 times as cheap.

 

Just be careful with proportions; the more Apoxie, the more brittle it'll be. It'll dry hard instead of flexible like GS.

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well sometimes the model has a "gap" where the two parts connect such as on the bloodthirsters bicep. its not a gap but its a line that shows up and you cant fill it only put something over it. would brush on sealer do that by itself? idk if it does that great

 

Yes, a layer of brush-on sealer (or other acrylic medium) works great as a finishing step over parts that you can't sand or file easily. 

 

Have you tried diamond-coated needle files or very fine metal needle files to get into those tight places?  Also try the plastic sanding needles that are popular for use on Bones models.  They work on metal, though they will wear more quickly than on Bones.  I have a diamond-coated bead reamer that can get into most gaps since it is very thin and has a nice point, too.  Dremel tools may also help you, such as the abrasive rubber polishers, though they won't get into the tight spots as well as other tools.

 

none of my models are metal these days as im a GW gamer aside from not using any of there hobby supplys/paint

 

do you have an exact name for these files i can look up?

 

Have you tried GW's liquid green stuff?

 

It's not good for filling large gaps, but it can help with something that is just a very thin seam. You should be able to build it up until it's flush with the surface, then wipe the excess clean before it cures.

 

I mostly use it for texturing parts, as it's not great at filling other than little pockmarks or super narrow seams. But it might be what you're looking for.

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I use the yellow-blue greenstuff, apply it with metal wax carving tools (a set I bought on amazon), and use vaseline to prevent the tools from sticking.  Once I have the shapes I want, such as scales or a smooth fill, I use the extra firm color shapers to smooth the edges.  if I am not happy with the transition, I add either a layer of brush on sealer or liquid greenstuff/acrylic molding paste to further smooth the area.

 

this is my favorite wax carving tool for the job:

da2643de-87b8-4ffc-ae11-7837cee08561_zps

 

One key with the greenstuff is to treat it gently.  It does not compress well like some clays.  If you poke too hard it will warp and can pull off your gap if you spread it too thin.  It can be cranky, but I've learned if I practice with it enough, I can generally coax it into doing what I want.

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I can't hang with petroleum jelly, the smell makes me crazy and I hate being greasy. I'm still using water.

 

Aloe Vera works very well as a lubricant, smells much better, and doesn't leave a greasy film on your work the way PJ does.

 

The Egg

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