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scuffed miniatures

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I use reaper Brush on and depending on weather I sometimes wait up to 24 hours.  On a dry warm day I can spray with matt within the hour.  The Matt I use is a can I bought at the fix-it store (Krylon Matte Finsih)  I also have it in a gloss but have not used the Gloss yet.

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For your first question, I'd let it set up for a good 24 hours before spraying on. 

I would also paint something with the sealer and test the spray on it before I did it with a mini I had a buncha work invested in; some paints, sprays, and chemical combos do NOT mix, particularly when dealing in Bones, which are made of a polyvinyl blend with reacts badly with some petrochemicals; the paint stays tacky instead of drying properly. 

For example, a Bones goblin I tested painted up fine with acrylics, but got tacky when I tried spray sealing it with what I thought was an acrylic spray sealer... with a petrochemical base. Metals are better, but you still wanna check and see how the sealers will interact.

Forumites: isn't there a list of sealers around here somewhere?

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I give minis a day between gloss and matte coats. If you put matte finish on too soon it can get frosty.

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Pingo is of course, correct. And note also that humidity that's too high can cause the spray coat to BEAD UP on you, and ruin a perfectly good coat.

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Pingo is of course, correct. And note also that humidity that's too high can cause the spray coat to BEAD UP on you, and ruin a perfectly good coat.

 

Yup.

 

Note that almost any extreme is bad for sprays (primer or sealer) - too cold, too hot, too moist, too dry (although warm/hot and dry are better than cold/moist). 

 

Which is why I pretty much always end up using brush-on primer an sealer, because asking Rochester weather to avoid extremes is like asking a puppy not to be excited by ALL THE THINGS and try and lick everyone's faces... good luck.  ::D:

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You know what's funny? Maybe it's the overall medium-grade weather of the Bay Area, but I never have any trouble at all spraying or painting sealant over a finished piece within minutes of drying, or applying different types of sealer as soon as the previous coat dries.

 

I think I've had frosting once, years ago, when it was extra humid, and once or twice the matte spray was glossy from cold weather. But for the most part, I don't ever have to wait.

 

Not that I don't appreciate your caution. Just that my mileage has varied. A lot, it seems.

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It's hot and very dry here (go figure living in Las Vegas). So I also can seal very quickly without frosting or problems of any sort.

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  My perception is lightly priming with MSP Brown Liner or Army Painter spray color primer makes paint on Bones less likely to scratch or scuff.  I normally seal the Bones figures with a matte acrylic varnish or two coats of a matte acrylic spray sealer.  I sometimes add a final coat of Testors dullcote after the acrylic sealer has dried for at least tow or three days.

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I do recommend washing Bones (and metal and especially resin) figures with water and soap prior to painting. It removes any mould release, dirt or skin oils that might cause the paint not to stick as well as it should. I also recommend mounting the figure on some kind of holder to minimize touching it while painting, which also helps the paint adhere better. And as people mentioned, if you can paint the figure 24-48 hours before you expect to use it, that also gives the paint time to cure a little more solidly. (All stuff mentioned previously or in the learn to paint kit, but which might bear repeating.)

 

Aerosol product experiences vary widely by climate, so that is a big factor in people having differing experiences.

 

Aerosol products often do not play well with Bones. This varies some by product, as well as by climate. If you poke around the Bones forum a bit, you will likely find some recommendations for and against various sealer products. Brush-on style sealer would be safest. If you try an aerosol, my recommendation is to test it on one or two figures first. I have not encountered a spray product that damaged Bones, the potential issue is the product not curing/drying and remaining tacky to the touch. Gloss sealers are more durable than matte.

 

The question about transport is very pertinent. While you do not need to take as much care with painted Bones as with metal figures, you cannot just transport them piled together loose in a bag or box without experiencing rub-off damage. You don't have to wrap them individually in bubble wrap, but placing them in single layers on bubble wrap in a box and securing the layers so the figures don't rattle around and bump into each other, or something similar to that, is going to help minimize paint damage.

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Another issue is that there are some Reaper paints that stick better to Bones than others.  Some of the Reaper Liners work great as a primer to avoid this problem, as it seems that all the paints stick well if you apply them after first "priming" with Reaper Brown Liner (or possibly other well-adhering paints). For miniatures that are already painted, I suggest Reaper brush on sealer.

Edited by zoroaster100
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Another issue is that there are some Reaper paints that stick better to Bones than others.  Some of ALL of the Reaper Liners work great as a primer to avoid this problem, as it seems that all the paints stick well if you apply them after first "priming" with Reaper Brown Liner (or possibly other well-adhering paints). For miniatures that are already painted, I suggest Reaper brush on sealer.

 

FTFY!   :poke:

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I have had 0 problems with heavy handling, using Reaper brush on Primer and GW's Purity Seal (spray matte sealant). This is pretty much what I use for everything, Bones or otherwise. A single coat of purity seal has always been enough for me too. I am careful with my minis, but not overly, and other people pretty much handle them however they want.

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I have primed mine with reaper's brush-on primer (white & black), I haven't had much trouble with the paint coming off. They also never leave my house, so they are handled pretty carefully.

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