Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I was curious how someone can make some tiny printed documentation like wanted posters so that I can glue to the base of a few of my miniatures or maybe glue to scenery?
Do you try and use some thinner paper maybe or is the normal printer paper good enough (I doubt it though)?

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is usually good enough. Give it a try, print a small flier, let the ink dry well, then soak in watered PVA and apply.

 

Some inks run so you cannot soak but you "paint" over it with a thin PVA layer instead... Or matte medium.

 

So... try it!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never heard of using sandpaper quite like that. I'll have to play around with it. The initial issue I see with it, regardless of grit, is its going to be very thick and hard to make conform to a surface.

Edited by Heisler
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not tried printing on onion skin paper but if it will fit through the printer that would be your best choise if you can find some.   It is, as the name implies, very then mostly transparent paper.   Some kind of tracing paper would also work if the printer could take it.  I would then cut it out and use some reaper sealer on the area on the wall where you want to stick it (as the glue) and once that dries go over it with a sealer or varnish to lock it in place.

 

:devil:

Link to post
Share on other sites

just to be clear the phrase was "Onion Skin Paper"... us old folks remenber this wonderfull translucent thin paper from days of old when crayons where used and printers used a tech called dot matrix! or even.. god forbid.. print wheels.  :devil:

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen tiny posters, newspapers and the like on bases. You just have to remember to color the edge and it looks fine printed on regular printer paper.

 

Edit to add:

Its not quite the same thing, but this guy's armor was printed on printer paper, then painted/shaped/sealed. I am embarrassed to say I don't remember who made this one.post-13074-0-26391200-1431317761_thumb.jpg

Edited by Keianna
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Splotchylnk;

 

I am lost in regard to the dilemma that you expressed in your posting in regard to the making of posters and documents!...These items are one of the most easy items to make and add to most any miniature piece.

 

Be it fantasy, modern war, post apocalyptic, sci-fi or nostalgic era...Just search the web for the type of posters that you want...copy/save the ones you are interested in...photo reduce to the size that you want...print them.

 

You can use standard stock (non-gloss) white paper...or get textured sheets of tan colored paper (for parchment looks) from any craft store.

 

Once printed...cut to size...you can weather it with a brush & water...you can make them look old & faded or newly posted.

 

Attach it to the surface that you are posting it on with a dab of white glue.

 

This is a very simple and straight forward process...I hope that this sheds some light on your stated problem/dilemma!

 

Paul (Catdancer)

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Keta-Minies
      Hey everyone !
      I'm proud to present you my first kickstarter ! : )
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...tabletop-games
       

       
      [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_CLhHafkGQ[/youtube]
       

      It's only the prelaunch, so i'll mostly tease you..
      but yep 118 stl as a core set, and every strech goal we'll unlock will be included to the bakers!
      Everything has been test printed !

      Painted pics ( video link to facebook -sorry i cannot manage to copy the url from facebook for reasons )
      https://www.facebook.com/Keta-minies...89414758408009

      Thanks for your time and wish me luck ! :)
    • By Ekaterina
      Hi!! my name is Katerina and I'm new to painting miniatures, I begun 
      with a miniature from NonSenseminiatures, the Barbarian, I buyed the 
      54mm because it's bigger and maybe easier to paint.
      I asked some help to NonSense and he already made a base coat for me, I 
      would like to get some help for painting because I see too much 
      information and don't know were begin.
      I already make painting but totally different
      Also he gave for me a discount code Katerina10%, because he will sell my 
      paints also!!!
       




       
    • By AntiMatter
      Hi folks!
       
      It has been years since I posted here but it has also been a while since I painted anything. 
       
      This is a step-by-step tutorial for painting the Daggertooth King Lizard made by AntiMatter Games for ShadowSea. The way this model is painted is in steps that require the paint to completely dry before going to the next step. It is a lot of washes and glazes that build up on top of each other and not wet blending.
       
      Step 1 was to prime entirely in white. Then in Step 2 the underside was painted with a mixture of Liquitex Muted Gray and Matte Medium, about 50/50, then thinned with a touch of water. By touch, I mean dipping the tip of the brush into water after putting the color on the brush. The ink mix needs to be thin enough to flow but not so thick it collects in thick pools. 
       

       
      Step 3 was to paint the top side with thinned Yellow Oxide from Golden Fluid Acrylics, mixed with Buttermilk (Americana Brand). More water was added to glaze this color onto the edges of the Muted Gray underbelly. 
       

       
      Step 4 was a shading step, where the underside was given a wash of Black Ink + Phthalo Blue ink (20/80), mixed with Matte Medium (50/50 of mixed color to medium). Black can overpower the color, so only a small amount is needed. The top side was given a wash of Burnt Sienna ink + Matte Medium (50/50). The inside of the mouth was given a wash of brick red paint mixed with black paint and a bit of matter medium. The underside was done first and allowed to dry. When painting the top side, the model was flipped upside down so that the ink did not run down onto the underside.
       

       
      Sep 5 is something a little different. This is a glaze of thinned white paint to reduce the “intensity” of shadows and even things out. More layers were applied to the tops of muscles and areas that are highlight zones and to also make the belly lighter overall. The white paint was basic craft paint from Americana brand. 
       

       
      Step 6 was a glaze step. Glazes of Burnt Sienna ink, thinned with about 50% water, were painted on the upper body and head and Burnt Umber ink was applied to the top of the back. The claws and spikes were given a wash of Burnt Umber ink + black Ink + Matter Medium (50/50 with color).
       

       
      Step 7  was to give paint some stripes. This was pretty simple, using black paint + Turquoise ink,  thinned with water so it was translucent (maybe 60/40 water/color).
       

       
      Step 8 was the basic highlight stage. Thinned Buttermilk color was painted on the top edge of scales to simulate light reflection while thinned white was used to highlight the legs and underside. This was done with a very small brush, unlike all of the previous steps. The spikes on the back were painted with more Burnt Sienna ink mixed with Buttermilk to blend them, then thinned Buttermilk for the edge highlights. Some final highlights were with thinned white on the top of the spikes.
       

       
      Step 9. Final Highlights and Base. The claws were painted like the spikes in Step 8 while the teeth were glazed with white to build up brightness, then painted in the edges with pure white. Small details, like eyeballs were done here also, using bright yellow and orange for the eyeball and back pupil with a small white dot for the reflection. The base had rocks painted in gray paint and the ground a light tan. This was allowed to dry, then a wash of a mix of Raw Sienna + Turquoise ink + Matte Medium was applied. The ground was washed with Raw Sienna ink + Matte Medium. Highlights were made with the tan paint on a bristly brush (an old drybrush brush with bristles pointing all around). The paint was put on the tips of the bristles and stippled around to add some random patterns. A bit of thinned white was used to add some edges to the rocks. Then the while model was given a coat of Dullcote, which ended up being a bit glossy, but that’s how it goes sometimes.
       

       

       

       
      cheers,
      Eric
      antimatter-games.com

       
    • By Treadhead Rad
      Hi Everyone,
       
      I wanted to share a new campaign that I've just started:
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1502793436/mav3rick-modular-3d-printable-tank-kit-in-28mm-sca

      Featuring a snap-fit modular design, MAV3RICK is a 3D printable kit that can be configured into a number of different vehicle variants:

       
      Take a look, I'd love to know what you think.
       
      Thanks for looking!
       
      -Treadhead Rad
    • By atomicpunk
      Not really sure where to put this question but this seems as good as any place.
       
      Is reaper done making metal minis? I own well over 100 legendary and warlord mini's as all as most of the old dragons all in pewter and much prefer pewter to the bones line. I'm mostly interested in the beautiful new dragons that reapers been turning out, and will be with the next bones 4
  • Who's Online   14 Members, 0 Anonymous, 31 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...