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By Peithetairos
Some may have seen it in the Facebook Group already, but I am working currently on a spelunking diorama that is a study in OSL. My first serious attempt at OSL it turned out to be a daunting and mindbending affair. I established the base colours and lighting via airbrush and then went back in with brush. Still a few things to fix, but it is getting there.
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By Evilhalfling
part one was opened in mid December, part 2 on Christmas morning.
I’ll build into a full diorama in January
Which I will then hide until next year
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By DragonWyrm
The Medium
I personally find the blended fibers medium by Liquitex to be a highly versatile medium. It can be added to any ground mixture to add the appearance of natural roots and similar debris. In this tutorial I will be looking at how to make an ice base using it. It is important to remember that in most cases the ice is hardly crystal clear and instead it generally appears cloudy white. The blended fibbers have a slight translucency which allows for the illusion of depth, while each fiber acts like a crack in the ice.
The Ice
Step 1: Base colour
Use a dark base. Then tint it with the colour you want. In this case I used Cerulean Blue. This step can be skipped if you are going to be tinting the medium instead (thought a darker base colour is still advised)
Step 2: Apply Fiber Medium
Slather on a large dollop of medium. You can add some colour to tint it, but the colour will change significantly as it dries so be carful to not overpower it (you don't even need to mix it well as streaking colours may be desired). Transparent colours work better for tinting if you still want to retain the depth. In this case I did not tint it.
Step 3: Smooth the Medium
I did this by wetting a pallet knife and running it over the surface, followed by cleaning up the edges. The Fiber medium is extremely easy to smooth with a wet pallet knife. The thickness decides how much translucency the final product has.
Step 4: Let it Dry
In this case I liked how it looked so I decided not to dry brush it with white. Drybrushing with white would make it look more frosty. This took a couple hours for me, mostly due to the thickness I chose. You can see how the blue is showing in the photo, that is the undercoat peaking through.
The Snow
Step 1: Snow
Mix some medium with Titanium white. This will make a nice snow texture
Step 2: Applying Snow
Apply the snow and feather it out with a brush, the feathering out makes it look more realistic. If you don't want peaks use water to smooth the snow (unless you want peaks to represent sticks in the snow.)
Step 3: Let it Dry
The base is now finished.
The Miniature
Put a miniature on it. Thats what a base is for. Unless you want to use it as a trap in DnD or some terrain.
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By veoviscool12
This is the second miniature I've ever painted, and the first with Reaper paints. I figured that a brush holder would come in handy for the all the Bones V painting in my future! The only Reaper paints I own are the Bones V paints (Learn to Paint kit and the two collections), plus two bottles of Reaper MSP 9038 Rainy Gray.
Overall I'm really pleased with the way this first attempt worked out! I primed everything with 9038 Rainy Gray, then put on the base coats. The wings and ears gave me the most trouble as I had generously overpainted with 9410 Dragon Green, and was attempting a wet blend with 09468 Brilliant Red and 09218 Lava Orange. They required seven or eight coats before I got solid coverage over the green. Once everything was painted and cleaned up, I did a dry brush highlight pass, and then sealed it with two coats of Rust-oleum Crystal Clear Enamel and one coat of Testors Dullcote. I waited 24 hours between each coat to give it plenty of time to dry. I also masked off the gold pile prior to the Dullcote to make sure it would stay shiny.
Some things that could have been better:
The eyes should have been a different color to make them pop, instead of disappearing in the face. Additionally the right eye is quite muddy and the pupil gets lost amidst all the black veins. I was getting tired of working on Rocky at this point and wanted to get it finished. Ideally the eye would have been repainted. The left eye is better, but still gets lost in all the green. I forgot that my wash darkens the mini, and didn't paint in brighter colors to compensate, which means overall it's quite muted and dark.
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By Darcstaar
I only saw one thread about crackle paste when I searched these forums.
So, I’m going to share how it’s going for me.
I started with washed and dried 1” and 2” Reaper Bases.
I put this garbage on a 2 inch base first.
Don’t buy it. I got it at Hobby Lobby at the time because they were out of Folk Art.
To be clear, this is Crackle Medium.
It is meant to be painted on a primed or rough surface I guess, and painted thin. I put it on kind of thick. It didn’t crackle at all!
So, I got a tub of this stuff on Amazon.
The directions state “put over a thin layer of PVA glue.” Pfft, who has time for that extra step?
Here is the result on a washed but otherwise un prepped set of bases.
1 inch
2 inch.
Lousy!
So, the surface needs something for crackle paste to work right.
This is a 1” base with a thin layer of PVA glue.
This is a 1” base with just hitting it with 220 grit sandpaper and washing it again.
I also used the 2” base with dried crackle medium on it. Not pictured.
This is a 2” base covered in black brush on primer.
Here is the result on the 2” base over dried crackle medium. It was hard to get the stuff into a uniform layer, as the medium created a very hydrophobic surface, so the paste slides around too easy.
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