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Helaman

Bones and Cyanoacrylates

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I am finding issues with my bones (finally getting to my Bones 2 box) and assembly with Cyanoacrylates. My Bone devil took about 10 tries before the wings would bond and it was only after soaking in soap water that it worked. My ice devil (the one that looks insectoid) is just plain not bonding at all, The tail fit is snug enough but pulls out readily. The arm fit is snug but also doesnt seem to bond but I'm letting that sit and am praying that it will take and the head (requiring the hollow head to fit a protuding neck) doesn't bond at all.

 

Any suggestions on using cyanoacrylates with bits that refuse to bond?

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Always wash bones with warm soapy water and stiff bristled toothbrush. They have a mold release agent on them and it'll keep glue and paint from sticking properly.

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Like ub3r_n3rd says, washing with soapy water is "must do" for most plastic miniatures.

In regard to Cyanoacrylates, maybe you can find some jelly type one. Jelly type super glue works better for something with gaps.

Or, you may try two-part epoxy glue and/or epoxy putty.

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Gorilla super glue. Just put Nethrymaul loose leg on yesterday. I did use the green (gel) version but I'm sure the blue cap (regular) will work fine.

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I've never had a problem getting my thick superglue to bond with the bones.. But I always wash mine with soap and water first..

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CA works better on Bones than two-part epoxy, at least in my testing. In particular, it worked better for gluing Bones to non-Bones (I tested wood, metal, and plastic bases.) The Bones I tested were straight out of the blister pack. However, I only tested single figures. My understanding is that there are some differences in the plastic mix, but I know there have been a lot of conversion classes at Reaper using pieces from the bigger figures that are more likely to be the different mixes, and I hadn't heard about glue problems.

 

The age of the glue was going to be my question. Seems like glue of any kind starts to not work so well after 2-3 years for me. I've taken to writing the date of purchase on the bottle so I can have an idea if that might be the issue if I start having problems. 

 

Variety of glue may also be an issue. All my tests were done with hobby store glue. (HobbyTown store brand, but I"m sure it's just another hobby brand marked with their packaging.) It's possible cheaper household glues wouldn't work as well? 

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I picked up a little blue bottle of locktite after using the stuff Bryan had in his Bones conversion class and seeing how it worked so quickly compared to the runny stuff I was trying to use.

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Hobby store brand if in purple cap bottles is from Bob Naismith Industries. They are basically the "house brand" superglue for hobby shops. My mom & pop shop uses them.

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Only two real glues I use, Loctite 416 and 420.
 

I can't remember which is which right now, but one is gap-filling, meaning it's gelled somewhat and takes a longer time to cure, and one is penetrating, meaning it's great for repairing hairline cracks because it's thinner than water and gets sucked into them. It also cures more or less instantly, so I use it for small parts too.

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