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czebas

Scale75

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Those are some good tips; I also found out that some of these paints do not like being "overworked" as you say. They are also less covering than others; but for some applications when you apply a new layer / color over the previous one it "melds" into the previous layer, getting the transitions to disappear. I found this out particularly with the flesh set and the reds.

 

They have also not produced any "coffee stain rings" yet, interesting... different propierties, you need to find its uses as with everything.

I think you are right the darker colors seem to be much more translucent so even if you aren't great at reducing for glazing these almost have a hidden "easy mode" when it comes to glazing. On different parts of this armor I had the paint really start to chalk up on me from going back and forth with it too much. This is especially visible on the belt area and the shoulders.

 

When I just started thinning just slightly and laying down layers then it really started to meld together like you said. I have been trying different NMM techniques most recently so I thought I'd try my scale75 again. 

 

I think that this set really allows you to crank out some nmm once you are accustomed to working with it.

post-9296-0-82765300-1441229354_thumb.jpg

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Yeah, it might be counter-intuitive but, as I think I said in my initial review looong ago, the paints feel thick but are translucent. That being, you can't really get a "watery" paint with some paints (like flesh sets) or I struggle to do that, but then you don't need because at a normal consistency they let the lower layer shine through as if they were reduced a lot. Hope I am making sense.

 

When I really want to dillute a paint and do those minimal-tinting layers, I go to Reaper or Vallejo. I think Reaper is marginally better in terms of saturation for that, but my Vallejo Game Air paints are great as well.

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They have also not produced any "coffee stain rings" yet

 

My browns did for me, but in fairness, I had watered them down **severely** for layering, and the problem "melded" to correct itself 2 layers later. You can't see the remnants of it at all - was the easiest "fix" I've ever needed to do. I swear, these things act like the T-1000 when I use them - they just "fix and correct" themselves.

 

My 4 F&G sets came in today - I'll give them a go on something over the extended weekend and report back.

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I am finding using the SC75 paints like using Green Stuff, I always take too much out of the container!

I am still finding my way around with using dropper bottles and palettes, so I guess this will come with time.

I have also noticed that the metallics, at least the ones I have used, seem to need less thinning than the non metallic paints. I also noticed that the individual non metallic colors also vary in the amount of thinning they need.

Is this something others have seen / noticed? Or is it just my inexperiance?

 

8)

George

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I am finding using the SC75 paints like using Green Stuff, I always take too much out of the container!

I am still finding my way around with using dropper bottles and palettes, so I guess this will come with time.

I have also noticed that the metallics, at least the ones I have used, seem to need less thinning than the non metallic paints. I also noticed that the individual non metallic colors also vary in the amount of thinning they need.

Is this something others have seen / noticed? Or is it just my inexperiance?

 

8)

George

 

It is normal. Metallics are a more fluid formulation; supposedly the test-bed for the more fluid Fantasy line... 

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I have a feeling I am going to end up buying more of these on vacation :)

I love the fantasy line but you guys have a lot of good things to say about the other line and the metals.

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I have a feeling I am going to end up buying more of these on vacation :)

I love the fantasy line but you guys have a lot of good things to say about the other line and the metals.

I have all but the 2 NMMs and the black& white set. Green and Blue and flesh should arrive tommorrow if the shipping stays the same as previously....

Going to get those next payday....

Yes, really digging what these things can do for my painting.

 

8)

George

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I just bought a bunch of browns...

 

By now my paints are like 60% Reaper. 30% Scale 75, and 30% various ( GW, P3, Vallejo)

 

I got this feeling the percentage of Scale 75 will slowly increase.

I love them.

 

My goal will be to use the GW and P3 and Vallejo stuff and then only have Reaper and Scale 75.

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I just bought a bunch of browns...

 

By now my paints are like 60% Reaper. 30% Scale 75, and 30% various ( GW, P3, Vallejo)

 

I got this feeling the percentage of Scale 75 will slowly increase.

I love them.

 

My goal will be to use the GW and P3 and Vallejo stuff and then only have Reaper and Scale 75.

I am in the same situation, although most of my paint is GW, a hold over from my 40K time. I also have a lot of Vallejo, mainly 'Military' colors from my FoW painting. I think I have bought more paint in the last 3 weeks than I have in a very long time....

 

8)

George

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I just bought a bunch of browns...

 

By now my paints are like 60% Reaper. 30% Scale 75, and 30% various ( GW, P3, Vallejo)

 

I got this feeling the percentage of Scale 75 will slowly increase.

I love them.

 

My goal will be to use the GW and P3 and Vallejo stuff and then only have Reaper and Scale 75.

I am in the same situation, although most of my paint is GW, a hold over from my 40K time. I also have a lot of Vallejo, mainly 'Military' colors from my FoW painting. I think I have bought more paint in the last 3 weeks than I have in a very long time....

 

8)

George

 

 

 

Good brushes and good paint do wonders for the results.

Spend a little more and get better results.

 

I love these paints. The Metallics are superb.

Try Gold from GW and then from Scale 75. I hate to say it, but Im inclined to throw the GW metallics in the thrashcan.

The times I found myself swearing over Gold that wont cover, or goes on to thick before it finally does...

 

Now with Scale 75, one coat and BAM!! good coverage,

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I just bought a bunch of browns...

 

By now my paints are like 60% Reaper. 30% Scale 75, and 30% various ( GW, P3, Vallejo)

 

I got this feeling the percentage of Scale 75 will slowly increase.

I love them.

 

My goal will be to use the GW and P3 and Vallejo stuff and then only have Reaper and Scale 75.

I am in the same situation, although most of my paint is GW, a hold over from my 40K time. I also have a lot of Vallejo, mainly 'Military' colors from my FoW painting. I think I have bought more paint in the last 3 weeks than I have in a very long time....

 

8)

George

 

 

 

Good brushes and good paint do wonders for the results.

Spend a little more and get better results.

 

I love these paints. The Metallics are superb.

Try Gold from GW and then from Scale 75. I hate to say it, but Im inclined to throw the GW metallics in the thrashcan.

The times I found myself swearing over Gold that wont cover, or goes on to thick before it finally does...

 

Now with Scale 75, one coat and BAM!! good coverage,

 

Necro Gold was the first SC75 I used, I know exactly what you mean!

 

8)

George

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Has anyone put this stuff through an airbrush yet?

If so, what did you thin it with?

I have some of their thinner on the way, but would like to know other peoples experiences with it, if any.

It certainly thins well with the water / flow improver mix that I use for brushing, but paint can be finicky at times, as I found out trying to thin VMC with Tamiya alcohol based airbrush thinner! (NOT recommended!)

 

8)

George

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Has anyone put this stuff through an airbrush yet?

If so, what did you thin it with?

I have some of their thinner on the way, but would like to know other peoples experiences with it, if any.

It certainly thins well with the water / flow improver mix that I use for brushing, but paint can be finicky at times, as I found out trying to thin VMC with Tamiya alcohol based airbrush thinner! (NOT recommended!)

 

8)

George

 

Didn't we cover this pages back? Or somewhere else? I even remember correcting you thinking Les' recipe was good for VMC but not so much for SC75, and that their thinner, or VMC thinner, worked great...

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Has anyone put this stuff through an airbrush yet?

If so, what did you thin it with?

I have some of their thinner on the way, but would like to know other peoples experiences with it, if any.

It certainly thins well with the water / flow improver mix that I use for brushing, but paint can be finicky at times, as I found out trying to thin VMC with Tamiya alcohol based airbrush thinner! (NOT recommended!)

 

8)

George

 

Didn't we cover this pages back? Or somewhere else? I even remember correcting you thinking Les' recipe was good for VMC but not so much for SC75, and that their thinner, or VMC thinner, worked great...

 

Yes we covered the WHAT, now I am looking for experiences with using it. Percentage of SC75 thinner to paint, does it cover as well through the airbrush as when brushed on, etc

 

8)

George

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