Some resin walls and terrain, a WIP

[Pingo]

For my birthday earlier this month my husband gave me various terrain pieces, including these resin pieces from Novus Design Studio.

 
They are: 1019 - 28mm Fantasy Bridge; 1052 - 28mm Artillery Position; 1015 - 28mm Fantasy Wall Set; and 1079 - 15mm Stalingrad Red October Factory Ruin, or as I have been thinking of them: the bridge, the cul-de-sac, the walls, and the really cool even if it is a little small abandoned factory.

 

I've never worked with resin before, and this has had something of a learning curve even for the priming.

 

I scrubbed these things well with warm water and dish liquid, but wow, do they repel paint in parts.

 

At first I mixed the paint with a little flow release, but that didn't work out too well.  It still beaded up and the dried paint film was soft and susceptible to being picked up by a wet brush, suggesting a weak paint film later on.

 

This is how they looked after a single coat of primer:

 

 

 

The walls were mostly okay, with at least one wall having a ferociously paint-resistant top, even after double scrubbing with hot water and strong dish soap.  Not even rubbing alcohol could break the beading and surface tension.

 

So I switched tactics.

 

I decided to mix my paint with a medium I have used previously when painting fiberglass sculpture, GAC 200 from Golden Paints which improves adhesion and reduces tack when dry.

 

This is why I blinked when I first saw Reaper paints:

 

The other thing I would do is keep a hair dryer blowing on the paint to dry it fast before it had a chance to bead up.  This necessitated the sacrifice of a couple of brushes because they had to be used under warm blowing air.  It also required a certain amount of juggling hands.

 

But it seems to have worked, and the paint film is much stronger.  This is how the pieces looked after the second coat of primer:

 

 

 

And the third coat of primer.  I had to stop using the camera's flash because they looked so white they only had a silhouette of the shape.  In real life they do not look quite this opaque white:

 

 

The factory I did last.  It looks really cool, but all the detail is at the moment washed out by the white primer.  I didn't remove all the flash and I think the hexagonal spaces in the ceiling supports were supposed to be cut out, but there's only so much work I have the spoons for in prep.

 

 

 

 

[MojoBob]

For what it's worth, I've found that diluting my initial base coat heavily with alcohol (usually isopropyl, but sometimes ordinary old meths) helps a lot with priming hydrophobic surfaces. You need to do a test first though, as some acrylics react in very peculiar ways to some alcohols.

[Pingo]

I am concerned that the base coat might be a little thick in places.  It was a real struggle to get it to stick some places.

 

Anyhow, I washed over the white priming with Burnt Umber and let the pieces dry before taking photos.

 

The walls each have a skull motif on one side and are plain the other.

 

I don't think I am going to paint these conventionally.  I get bored easily, you see ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TGP]

I don't know what to make of the hex shapes in the factory roof spans. Never seen the like in a real factory.

[BLZeebub]

Have you tried TSP (trisodium phosphate) or a substitute if you can't find the real stuff?  It's used on slick panel walls, glazed tiles, and generally any too-glossy-to-hold-paint surface to increase adherence.  I've got some 2-part resin that resists the first coat of paint like the surface is oily (or that plastic that aquarium plants are made of...grr).  It seems to take some spray primers alright or undiluted acrylic paint. 

[Chaoswolf]

That factory piece already looks pretty good; kinda like it's burned out and been exposed to the elements for a few years.

[EvilJames]

Impact has some info on their website for how to prime Trollforged resin which is fairly hydrophobic. The info there might work here as well. Also I've found the Brown liner tecnique that people use on bones minis worked pretty well on my Impact Chibi pumpkinhead guy. My only other experience with resin was a mini from a Spanish French company and I didn't have much trouble with priming that one if I recall.

Edit: oops meant to reply to the other thread.

Edit again: It was Fenryll in France

Edited September 10, 2015 by EvilJames

[Pingo]

Impact has some info on their website for how to prime Trollforged resin which is fairly hydrophobic. The info there might work here as well. Also I've found the Brown liner tecnique that people use on bones minis worked pretty well on my Impact Chibi pumpkinhead guy. My only other experience with resin was a mini from a Spanish company and I didn't have much trouble with priming that one if I recall.

Edit: oops meant to reply to the other thread.

Eh, that's okay.

 

Would it violate the forum's commerce rules to link to the info?  I'm having a little trouble finding it.

 

I may have to strip these pieces and restart.

[EvilJames]

It probobly would violate the rules, however if you look any chibi mini (probably any trollcast mini) in their online catalog, it should be note 5, "painting trollcast" It says you need spray primers with a self etching agent and then lists some.

Just above note 6 where it tells you not to light your minis on fire. lol.

Edited September 10, 2015 by EvilJames

[knarthex]

I play a WWII wargame that uses resin for the main body of most of the 15mm tanks, troop carriers etc. I have always used P3 Black primer on them....

 

Pingo, maybe break down and get some spray Primer? The P3 white is what I use for "people" Black for "Items" like your walls, etc

 

Just a thought.

 

8)

George

[Heisler]

For this particular reason I would go with a regular spray on enamel primer; Armoury, GW, P3, Armypainter, Tamiya, Mr Surface etc.