Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  

Recommended Posts

For my birthday earlier this month my husband gave me various terrain pieces, including these resin pieces from Novus Design Studio.
post-8022-0-80267700-1435527749.jpg
 
They are: 1019 - 28mm Fantasy Bridge; 1052 - 28mm Artillery Position; 1015 - 28mm Fantasy Wall Set; and 1079 - 15mm Stalingrad Red October Factory Ruin, or as I have been thinking of them: the bridge, the cul-de-sac, the walls, and the really cool even if it is a little small abandoned factory.

 

I've never worked with resin before, and this has had something of a learning curve even for the priming.

 

I scrubbed these things well with warm water and dish liquid, but wow, do they repel paint in parts.

 

At first I mixed the paint with a little flow release, but that didn't work out too well.  It still beaded up and the dried paint film was soft and susceptible to being picked up by a wet brush, suggesting a weak paint film later on.

 

This is how they looked after a single coat of primer:

post-8022-0-19058600-1435528137.jpg

 

post-8022-0-27232000-1435528131.jpg

 

post-8022-0-41346400-1435528145.jpg

 

The walls were mostly okay, with at least one wall having a ferociously paint-resistant top, even after double scrubbing with hot water and strong dish soap.  Not even rubbing alcohol could break the beading and surface tension.

 

So I switched tactics.

 

I decided to mix my paint with a medium I have used previously when painting fiberglass sculpture, GAC 200 from Golden Paints which improves adhesion and reduces tack when dry.

 

This is why I blinked when I first saw Reaper paints:

post-8022-0-90097400-1435528345.jpg

 

The other thing I would do is keep a hair dryer blowing on the paint to dry it fast before it had a chance to bead up.  This necessitated the sacrifice of a couple of brushes because they had to be used under warm blowing air.  It also required a certain amount of juggling hands.

 

But it seems to have worked, and the paint film is much stronger.  This is how the pieces looked after the second coat of primer:

post-8022-0-05352500-1435528460.jpg

 

post-8022-0-90948400-1435528444.jpg

 

post-8022-0-23280200-1435528453.jpg

 

And the third coat of primer.  I had to stop using the camera's flash because they looked so white they only had a silhouette of the shape.  In real life they do not look quite this opaque white:

post-8022-0-04269400-1435528569.jpg

 

post-8022-0-81884000-1435528558.jpg

 

The factory I did last.  It looks really cool, but all the detail is at the moment washed out by the white primer.  I didn't remove all the flash and I think the hexagonal spaces in the ceiling supports were supposed to be cut out, but there's only so much work I have the spoons for in prep.

post-8022-0-92658100-1435528685.jpg

 

post-8022-0-66681800-1435528693.jpg

 

post-8022-0-01397900-1435528701.jpg

 

post-8022-0-64849400-1435528708.jpg

 

  • Like 11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For what it's worth, I've found that diluting my initial base coat heavily with alcohol (usually isopropyl, but sometimes ordinary old meths) helps a lot with priming hydrophobic surfaces. You need to do a test first though, as some acrylics react in very peculiar ways to some alcohols.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am concerned that the base coat might be a little thick in places.  It was a real struggle to get it to stick some places.

 

Anyhow, I washed over the white priming with Burnt Umber and let the pieces dry before taking photos.

 

The walls each have a skull motif on one side and are plain the other.

 

I don't think I am going to paint these conventionally.  I get bored easily, you see ...

post-8022-0-58570300-1435540569.jpg

 

post-8022-0-68881400-1435540584.jpg

 

post-8022-0-41504500-1435540593.jpg

 

post-8022-0-30959800-1435540600.jpg

 

post-8022-0-05490900-1435540615.jpg

 

post-8022-0-58937500-1435540620.jpg

 

post-8022-0-69394000-1435540625.jpg

 

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know what to make of the hex shapes in the factory roof spans. Never seen the like in a real factory.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tried TSP (trisodium phosphate) or a substitute if you can't find the real stuff?  It's used on slick panel walls, glazed tiles, and generally any too-glossy-to-hold-paint surface to increase adherence.  I've got some 2-part resin that resists the first coat of paint like the surface is oily (or that plastic that aquarium plants are made of...grr).  It seems to take some spray primers alright or undiluted acrylic paint. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That factory piece already looks pretty good; kinda like it's burned out and been exposed to the elements for a few years.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Impact has some info on their website for how to prime Trollforged resin which is fairly hydrophobic. The info there might work here as well. Also I've found the Brown liner tecnique that people use on bones minis worked pretty well on my Impact Chibi pumpkinhead guy. My only other experience with resin was a mini from a Spanish French company and I didn't have much trouble with priming that one if I recall.

Edit: oops meant to reply to the other thread. :wow:

Edit again: It was Fenryll in France

Edited by EvilJames
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Impact has some info on their website for how to prime Trollforged resin which is fairly hydrophobic. The info there might work here as well. Also I've found the Brown liner tecnique that people use on bones minis worked pretty well on my Impact Chibi pumpkinhead guy. My only other experience with resin was a mini from a Spanish company and I didn't have much trouble with priming that one if I recall.

Edit: oops meant to reply to the other thread. :wow:

Eh, that's okay.

 

Would it violate the forum's commerce rules to link to the info?  I'm having a little trouble finding it. :mellow:

 

I may have to strip these pieces and restart. :unsure:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It probobly would violate the rules, however if you look any chibi mini (probably any trollcast mini) in their online catalog, it should be note 5, "painting trollcast" It says you need spray primers with a self etching agent and then lists some.

Just above note 6 where it tells you not to light your minis on fire. lol.

Edited by EvilJames

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I play a WWII wargame that uses resin for the main body of most of the 15mm tanks, troop carriers etc. I have always used P3 Black primer on them....

 

Pingo, maybe break down and get some spray Primer? The P3 white is what I use for "people" Black for "Items" like your walls, etc

 

Just a thought.

 

8)

George

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For this particular reason I would go with a regular spray on enamel primer; Armoury, GW, P3, Armypainter, Tamiya, Mr Surface etc.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By ttuckerman
      Felicitations on your personal solstice!
    • By Pingo
      This is the Reaper Bones 77371 Basilisk sculpted by Julie Guthrie. It's quite small - about the size of a large dog, with a wonderfully grouchy visage.
       
      I painted it up fairly quickly to illustrate a video about how yellow and black can be mixed to make greens. This was an example of the less vivid greens (For a really vivid yellow-and-black green, see my She-Hulk Show-Off thread). All the colors on the critter were mixed just from yellow (mostly Yellow Ochre, but also a little Hansa Yellow), black, and white.
       
      The video is here, if anyone cares to watch it.
       

       
       
       

       

    • By Pingo
      This is Reaper's magnificent 50212 "Incredible Woman," sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
       
      She's a great figure that can be painted up like a lot of (tall - she's a big one) women superheroes. Wonder Woman is on my wish list, and maybe Captain Marvel one day.
       
      This version is Marvel's She-Hulk from her classic days as one of the Fantastic Four, replacing Ben Grimm for a time.
       
      As a materials and techniques note, I didn't use any green or blue pigments in her skin. It's all mixed from yellow and black. This was partly to prove a point and is kind of central in the art video I posted on YouTube last week: Yellow and Black Make Green.
       
      Enjoy!
       

       

       

       

       
       
    • By Pingo
      Well, I've gone and done it. I got a YouTube channel and have started making a series of videos on matters of paint and painting.
       
      Okay, I say "series of videos" all grandly, but at the moment it's one video and a planned syllabus. But I have more planned!
       
      This is pretty much my first video ever. I was helped a great deal by my family members who have more experience in this.
       
      The first video is a paint comparison, looking at one of the new Liquitex Acrylic Gouache paints (Quinacridone Magenta, PR122) and considering its suitability for miniatures painting.
       
      Enjoy!
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwonRqv0Xgk
       
       
    • By Inarah
      This started out as a variant of the gothic chapel, but sometime before completion it got dropped and broken.  Possibly more than once, as there is a 2nd long wall that does not fit this model.  Anyway, a couple weekends ago I found the box, glued parts back together and gave the paint a touch-up.  Added some moss, vines, and grass to the base to spruce it up a bit.  I gave it to my husband to use as a photo backdrop. 
       

       

       
      The figures are some my husband painted. 
  • Who's Online   33 Members, 2 Anonymous, 107 Guests (See full list)

×