Seer of the Pitt Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 I use Vallejo Surface Primer 73.600 White and 73.602 Black, brushed on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludo Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 High humidity is what often causes the gritty primer coat for me. Also if there is a lot of dust floating around. Wren did a great article about priming Bones (good for any non metal minis really) http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48669-bones-the-first-coat-is-the-difference/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djizomdjinn Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Tamiya Fine Surface Primer holds great detail for me, and even overspraying it doesn't really cover too much detail. Not sure if it comes in different colors, but the light gray I have is the perfect base color. Light enough that it won't mute any colors you put over it, just a shade darker than white if you want to highlight over it. It's only mildly durable though, and enamel thinner and acetone strip it straight off. For Bones, just a coat of Reaper Brown Liner, like many on this forum I imagine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hestis Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 For those of you that use Krylon, do you use the type that is just primer, or the paint & primer type? Does it make a difference? I've only done a couple of Bones minis so far (the LtPK ones), and didn't prime them. But I am looking at doing more, and want to paint my Imperial Assault minis as well. I bought some Krylon primer based on the thread in the Bones forum, but got the straight primer type. I noticed in Wren's thread that she suggests the paint and primer type. Just wondering if maybe I should exchange one for the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Sundseth Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 I use straight Krylon primer. (Again, not on PVC.) Never had a problem whose cause wasn't obvious in retrospect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qwyksilver Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Tamiya Fine Surface Primer holds great detail for me, and even overspraying it doesn't really cover too much detail. Not sure if it comes in different colors, but the light gray I have is the perfect base color. Light enough that it won't mute any colors you put over it, just a shade darker than white if you want to highlight over it. White and Clear as well. I use White. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egg of Coot Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 I usually use cheapo automotive primer. Never had an issue. The Egg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Cave Bear Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Tamiya Fine Surface Primer holds great detail for me, and even overspraying it doesn't really cover too much detail. Not sure if it comes in different colors, but the light gray I have is the perfect base color. [...]I tried something similar -- Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000, through an airbrush. It stuck to both metal and Bones amazingly well, passed the rub and scratch tests on the Bones material, and hid no detail. Only problem was... it had no tooth. It was so smooth that Reaper MSP acrylics rubbed right off of it with almost no effort. If I was painting with solvent based paints, I'd use it. Maybe if I'd used Mr. Surfacer 600 instead... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodhowl Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Tamiya fine surface primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knarthex Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Privateer P3, white or black for me. Way to many issues with Citadel now as it is only their white or black paint, and I never trusted krylon etc as we are working with fine detail. Black for vehicles, I play Flames of War, white for everything else. At about $10 a can, it isn't cheap, and I have to special order it, but I feel it is worth it.... I haven't painted any bones yet, I prefer metal and resin.... Also high humidity is DEATH on clear coats!!!! If you must clear coat a mini outside in high humidity, get it back inside to dry as soon as you finish that coat!!! Otherwise they will turn 'frosty' like a coat of ice rime and kill your paint job. Good luck with your painting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Last Knight Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Boxer, unless I can get a good deal on some Wolf or Tula and then it's Berdan all the way. ...I'll get m' coat... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vutpakdi Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 I've used Duplicolor (on metal minis) up to about 65-70% humidity without any problems. Even in a Houston summer, I can usually find part of a day where the humidity isn't too high. That said, I mostly prime with Reaper Brush On Primer or Badger's Primer through an airbrush these days. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loim Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Boxer, unless I can get a good deal on some Wolf or Tula and then it's Berdan all the way. ...I'll get m' coat... The old corrosive Berdan are a super pita imo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkymadigan Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Brush on primer also goes on very well when pushed through an air brush. Neat, I'm about ready to start on my DDS ruins, and was thinking of trying that exact thing. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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