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Hello folks,


I'm trying to figure out how to base my Bones Gnolls (77012, 77104, 77235, 77236) on medium (1 inch) bases. After several failed attempts to somehow get the darn things on 1" round bases (74035) I finally overcame my OCD and bought some square bases. As much as it pains me I'd rather have them based and not matching all of the other miniatures than not based at all. It's worth noting that I intend to use these miniatures on a 1" grid battlemat, so just using larger bases is not desired.


I purchased some "1 inch" square bases from Reaper (74038) thinking the Gnolls would fit. Unfortunately, the Reaper bases are beveled to 7/8". This isn't big enough and leaves one of the Gnolls' feet hanging off the side. If I flip the base upside down to compare I find that the Gnoll would just barely fit on a true 1" base.


How are you guys basing your wide-stance miniatures? Is there a company that sells true 1" bases (without beveled edges)?


Thank you in advance for any advice you can provide!

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 There are companies out there that sell non-beveled square bases, but I don't have the names handy at the moment. One possible solution that won't look too bad is to simply mount them on the beveled bases, but remove the integral base and then pin the feet to the base so they're close enough together to fit. Depending on the individual sculpt, you can sometimes get away with quite a bit before it noticeably looks like the legs are bent inward a bit.  Also mounting them slightly diagonally can give you more room to work with. For most of those sculpts, it won't be noticeable if they're slightly turned to the left or right due to how they're posed.


Also, if you have any greenstuff, other epoxy putty, air-dry polymer clay or any sort of thing like that that won't shrink as it dries, you can build up the top part of the base to be parallel to the bottom before painting the base and adding the mini.

Edited by Mad Jack
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I was going to suggest much the same as Adrift has done. You might want to snip off the ends of the bases with a pair of small/mini side-cutters and add a little putty to the ends so that it looks like earth underneath the paved-style bases, or just put a little white glue there and cover with sand.


Tip: Use side-cutters, not a knife! Side-cutters will snip away the plastic with ease but if you try to use a craft knife you're liable to cut your finger.

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I used a scalpel from work to cut away the Bones bases and the green cutting board shown in the picture. Definitely cut away from yourself. 


As you can see from the photos, I used round flat top Reaper bases from KS #2 (pictured above ^_^) and just broke off chunks of cork to simulate a rough terrain. I used superglue to glue everything together and will use matte filling paste and other terrain elements to simulate a variety of terrain elements for my bugbears. I'm then going to paint them as a group, varying up the skin tones, etc. 

Edited by Adrift
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How are you guys basing your wide-stance miniatures?


Is there a company that sells true 1" bases (without beveled edges)?

I avoid buying minis that have the wide stance problem whenever possible, even passing on Orcpocalypse because of their wide stance. When I do get them, making them a mounted figure sometimes works. If angling the mini on a rock works, that can look ok sometimes.  




"Learning Resources Square Color Tiles" might be useful to you, they have a TINY bit of beveling (24.5mm top to 25mm) bottom and are 5mm thick. I've seen them for about $20 US for 400 of them. Laser cut MDF bases are also available, but MDF has issues.



Edited by scorpio616
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Thanks for all of the replies!


I'll have to look into the Learning Resources Square Color Tiles, Litko bases, and see what the crafty folks on Ebay/Etsy are offering. One of those has to offer a good combination of affordable and effective.


I used the cork board method that Adrift is showing off with my Bones I Hell Hound (77038). It looks good but the mini over-hangs the neighboring squares quite a bit making positioning other minis during an encounter kind of difficult. We (the Wife and I) tried modding the Gnolls to fit on the round bases (74035 ) Malefactus is advocating but we only had limited success at the expense of lots of time and effort and we were doubtful we'd be able to pull off even that limited success with other models such as the Bugbears.


I'm starting to develop the mindset that Scorpio616 has about passing over minis with wide stances. Perhaps as my collection of minis transitions from "nothing" to "can-reasonably-run-a-game" I'll become more discriminating in my selections. In my fantasy world, mini manufacturers, including the good folks at Reaper, would conform to the standards we'd expect but as I keep finding out on a daily basis the world doesn't not work as I want it to. 

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I'm starting to develop the mindset that Scorpio616 has about passing over minis with wide stances. Perhaps as my collection of minis transitions from "nothing" to "can-reasonably-run-a-game" I'll become more discriminating in my selections. In my fantasy world, mini manufacturers, including the good folks at Reaper, would conform to the standards we'd expect but as I keep finding out on a daily basis the world doesn't not work as I want it to. 

Reaper IS aware of the issue. Here's proof...


This whole discussion is very fascinating to me as both a long time DM and a new sculptor.  We grew into D&D without minis, adding them in the early 90's.  I've always seen them as approximate place holders.  Even when 3.0 and Pathfinder came around, I still never equated "base size" to what the creature can do.  In other words, I don't think, "the Ogre has reach because he is on a large base", but do think "the ogre has reach because he's an ogre who is really big and has long arms and stuff."  Where his reach starts and ends is only loosely defined by the mini, and more defined by me describing the action.


So imagine my confusion as a very wet-behind-the-ears sculptor when Ron came to me and told me that this is a big issue and I need to watch my base sizes. I wasn't even sure what he was talking about at first and had to go back to the rule books and do a bunch of reading in PF and D&D.  Wow, there are rules for this!    :huh:   It was just a foreign concept to me.  I was sculpting my critters based on their stated physical size in the MM/Beastry, but not posing them specifically to fit on a particular sized base.  The one in particular that stands out for me is the soon-to-be-released Iron Cobra.  I based its pose on a photo of a real cobra and made it to scale based on the sizes listed in several game systems.  However you will note that it is stretched long as if slithering.  Well according to some of the most popular game systems, it should be on a Medium base (1" x 1") but I designed it with a Cavalry base in mind (1" x 2") because that seemed to make most sense and fell well within the parameters of the creature's size.  However, I could have coiled it up to make it fit on a Medium base, but it just didn't occur to me that this would be an issue.  So now, ensuring that I not only make everything the right scale, BUT also the right base size has become a priority for me.  Live and learn...


Only thing is some can argue Bubears and gnolls deserve a pass, since they WERE large size in 1E AD&D, but I am sick of orcs and barbarians  who seem think their mighty thews entitle them to 30mm bases.

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It is good to hear that Reaper is at least aware of the situation. We'll have to see if their actions (i.e., new sculpts) match their words.


Marineal, do you have a picture that shows how your minis are turning out?

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