using 1/72 orcs for goblins

[scorpio616]

Just got a pack of The Red Box 1/72 Dark Alliance Orcs:set 2 that I plan to use for goblins.

 

 

 

 The plastic is kind of rubbery, maybe a PVC material, unlike the styrene like plastic I was expecting. It is for the best to be honest, main sprue can be bent in half and returns to original shape with nearly no trouble and only a tiny bit of discoloration. That will at least keep the tiny weapons from breaking easily. The plastic seems a bit like Bones, so filing does not seem too effective.

 

Plan is to clean and wash them on the sprues then pin the sprue itself to some sort of anchor for painting.

 

Probably give them each a paperclip shortbow or a couple javelins from hammered paperclips.. 

 

Since I kinda like the base colour of the plastic, first thing is to start with a wash of Minwax polyshades Antique Walnut and see what happens.

[Chaoswolf]

Looks interesting. I'm eager to see how they work out.

[Rob Dean]

I generally wash these plastics and then start with a base coat of black gesso. I finish with a brush layer of flexibile acrylic varnish before anything else that I might do.

 

I think these guys are from Set 2:

 

 

 

[scorpio616]

 

Well, the experiment was mostly successful, the minwax worked as expected and did not trigger a chemical reaction as I feared it might. Look good, but I think I'll base colour the other 4 sprues, then minwax them.

 

Edited August 13, 2015 by scorpio616

[scorpio616]

 

got lazy with the flash/mold lines,

[scorpio616]

Experiments continue... And I'm now thinking priming will be good idea for future figs of this manufacturer. 

 

[Sergeant_Crunch]

The problem with that kind of plastic is that the paint will tend to flake off when the figure bends (like swords, arms, and other thin parts). My son did a set of Vikings, they still mostly look good, but there has been some damage.

[Rob Dean]

While that's true, you can alleviate a lot of that by the acrylic gesso priming and the use of the flexible clear brush on varnish. I'm not home, but I'll look up the Liquitex stock number that I use later. In my experience, that's enough to hold weapons against damage in most normal bumps, drops, and bends. You can still peel the paint off if you bend it and go after it with your fingernail, so evict any player who's that rough...

[breegull]

I'm a fan of multi-surface acrylic craft paint.  It doesn't shrink quite as nicely as my black gesso, so you can't just glob it on to the same extent.  But it adheres even better and is more flexible, in my experience.  And the upside of it not shrinking as much, is that it doesn't get those little gaps in coverage from shrinkage.  Plus, it comes in all sorts of colors rather than just black and white.

[scorpio616]

The minwax polyshades seems real good at holding the paint in place. 

[DocPiske]

You might try Reaper MSP liners as a base, too. They perform phenomenally on the soft PVC Bones.

[scorpio616]

You might try Reaper MSP liners as a base, too. They perform phenomenally on the soft PVC Bones.

I'm sure it's a fine product, it's price per ounce however places on my no-buy list.

[Glitterwolf]

In my youth I had almost every army of 1:72 Airfix line.

 

I painted those with oils and that stayed on very well.

Later I triec acrylics, but that comes of way sooner with these bendible plastics.

 

Also I get the impression that die to the different kind of polymer, the Bones handle paint better then these little toys soldiers.

 

On topic: The Orcs look really nice.