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My attempt at Q-tipping didn't work. I think the key is probably to get a small amount on the swab, then sort of blot at it. I soaked it then drug it across the surface, which just made a huge ugly smear which you can see on the skeleton base. So, skipping that part, I used a normal drybrush to get some 09087 Weathered Stone on the bases, and 09060 Polished Bone on the skeletons themselves.
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Next I used some 09294 Alien Goo to drybrush on the ghost ladies. It worked okish, didn't really look very green, just got kind of pale and hazy.
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Next some X-25 Clear Green with X-20A Thinner to try to blend in the drybrushing a bit, and a second coat on the green fire wall.

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A wash of 09136 Walnut Brown on the bases, generous on the skeletons, and sparingly on the ghosts.

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For the multi-color fire wall, I was going to put X-24 Clear Yellow on the high points. Opening it was tough, then all these tiny gummy spheres fell out of the cap. Also I found some stuck on the outside in a huge gummy strip. Tamiya is wierd.
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Anyway, there's sort of a yellowish tint, but it's mostly not noticable.

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Here it is next to one that was just coated in clear.
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Here's a smoked fireball. Tamiya X-19 Smoke.
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Here's blued fireball. Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue. Really slathered on, super thick at the top before I realized it was horrible.
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I went over the blue fireball with some Tamiya X-20A Thinner before it had a chance to dry. It helped pull off some of the excess, and moved the thick solid covered parts around more. Not so bad!
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For reference, here's what Clear Blue does on Green Bones.
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These are great, an inspiration for really making the most out of the transparent bones.

I did one of the clear slimes as a green ooze using layers of reaper clear green, and some thin brown liner wash in the shadows.

I also bulked out the puddle with transparent caulking.

 

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/65528-77306-translucent-slime/

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