Basius & Basius 2 Stamp Pads Bases and Terrain

[arclance]

You may want to trim them now since the Apoxie Sculpt/Green Stuff mix dries hard and won't cut nearly as easy as just green stuff will.

[ub3r_n3rd]

You may want to trim them now since the Apoxie Sculpt/Green Stuff mix dries hard and won't cut nearly as easy as just green stuff will.

 

I'll give a few minutes so that I don't get fingerprints on them or smash them down and lose details.

[knarthex]

 

You may want to trim them now since the Apoxie Sculpt/Green Stuff mix dries hard and won't cut nearly as easy as just green stuff will.

 

I'll give a few minutes so that I don't get fingerprints on them or smash them down and lose details.

 

So how did that work out for you with the 50% mix?

I really like using it that way myself, but I have not tried making bases yet.

G

[tiniest rhombus]

Those look good, Uber. I really should use my pads more often. They are fun and useful and I spent enough money on them...

[ub3r_n3rd]

 

 

You may want to trim them now since the Apoxie Sculpt/Green Stuff mix dries hard and won't cut nearly as easy as just green stuff will.

 

I'll give a few minutes so that I don't get fingerprints on them or smash them down and lose details.

 

So how did that work out for you with the 50% mix?

I really like using it that way myself, but I have not tried making bases yet.

G

 

As I said, I really liked it (from my post on the last page). The details, as you all can see, are very sharp. I'd never done the 50/50 mix (Well this was more like 60 GS/40 AS), but I'd recommend it to everyone, just make sure to use some vaseline (or other lubricant) to be able to remove the putty from the stamps and not get it stuck inside all the nooks and crannies.

 

Those look good, Uber. I really should use my pads more often. They are fun and useful and I spent enough money on them...

Thanks! Yeah, you should!

 

I don't use mine enough either, I had this big mix left over and was wracking my brain thinking of what to do with all the extra and then it hit me that I had 6 frickin' pads to go ahead and try out with this new mix. 

[arclance]

I made bases using Green Stuff, 2:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt, 1:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt, 1:2 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt, Yellow-Grey Milliput, Silver-Grey Milliput, & Superfine White Milliput today.

I used a disposable glue brush to apply Olive Oil as a release agent to the Basius pad and lump of putty on the base.

They are still too soft to wash the Olive Oil off right now so pictures will have to wait until Monday since I have the Marvel Superheros game I am in to go to tomorrow.

 

The Straight Green Stuff, 2:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt, and Yellow-Grey Milliput produced the best results.

Straight Green Stuff and 2:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt produced basically identical levels of detail but the 2:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt released from the mold better and is slightly cheaper.

Yellow-Grey Milliput did not come out with quite as good detail but released without issue unlike some of the other things I tried.

 

1:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt did not produce detail as good as the last three and sticks a little in fine details but would be a good option for wargame armies where large numbers of acceptable detail bases at a lower cost might be worth the slight loss of detail.

 

1:2 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt and Silver-Grey Milliput stuck to a unacceptable degree and the level of detail suffered as a result.

The Silver-Grey Milliput took a particulary long time (~20 minutes) to clean the remains off of the Basius pad afterwards.

 

Superfine White Milliput stuck a little (not as much as the Silver-Grey Milliput) but had cracking and crumbling problems similar to the Straight Apoxie Sculpt base I made before.

 

I found that when making bases with deep impressions on them (like the fallen logs side of the forest pad) they come out better if you fill the impression with a separate piece of putty before pressing the base down to make sure the hole is completely filled.

Edited January 17, 2016 by arclance

[knarthex]

I made bases using Green Stuff, 2:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt, 1:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt, 1:2 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt, Yellow-Grey Milliput, Silver-Grey Milliput, & Superfine White Milliput today.

I used a disposable glue brush to apply Olive Oil as a release agent to the Basius pad and lump of putty on the base.

They are still too soft to wash the Olive Oil off right now so pictures will have to wait until Monday since I have the Marvel Superheros game I am in to go to tomorrow.

 

The Straight Green Stuff, 2:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt, and Yellow-Grey Milliput produced the best results.

Straight Green Stuff and 2:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt produced basically identical levels of detail but the 2:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt released from the mold better and is slightly cheaper.

Yellow-Grey Milliput did not come out with quite as good detail but released without issue unlike some of the other things I tried.

 

1:1 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt did not produce detail as good as the last three and sticks a little in fine details but would be a good option for wargame armies where large numbers of acceptable detail bases at a lower cost might be worth the slight loss of detail.

 

1:2 Green Stuff/Apoxie Sculpt and Silver-Grey Milliput stuck to a unacceptable degree and the level of detail suffered as a result.

The Silver-Grey Milliput took a particulary long time (~20 minutes) to clean the remains off of the Basius pad afterwards.

 

Superfine White Milliput stuck a little (not as much as the Silver-Grey Milliput) but had cracking and crumbling problems similar to the Straight Apoxie Sculpt base I made before.

 

I found that when making bases with deep impressions on them (like the fallen logs side of the forest pad) they come out better if you fill the impression with a separate piece of putty before pressing the base down to make sure the hole is completely filled.

I have found that when using plain Apoxie Sculpt, or 1/1 GS Apoxie Sculpt in Instamolds, it is best to let them harden in the mold for 12 hours or so before popping them out. I have not tried Basius, but I have tried Happy S with straight GS, so I guess there is a difference, but I typed this due to your comment on the deep part of the mold with the log.

I don't know, could you let the stuff cure completely in a basius?

 

George

[arclance]

I have found that when using plain Apoxie Sculpt, or 1/1 GS Apoxie Sculpt in Instamolds, it is best to let them harden in the mold for 12 hours or so before popping them out. I have not tried Basius, but I have tried Happy S with straight GS, so I guess there is a difference, but I typed this due to your comment on the deep part of the mold with the log.

I don't know, could you let the stuff cure completely in a basius?

 

George

The plain Apoxie Sculpt cracked and split while pressing it into the mold.

I could see it happening in the extra that spread off the side of the base.

You can let things partially cure in a hard mold like a Basius pad but it is not recommended to let them completely cure because your run the risk of breaking a piece of the pad off if it catches on the hardened putty as you remove it.

This is not a problem with a soft mold like an Instamold or a Happy Sepuku mold since you can flex it to release the hardened putty.

 

The reason for filling the deep part of the mold is because the impression is deeper than the depth of putty you need to get the rest of the detail so it does not fill completely if you just use the amount you need for most bases when making one with one of the deep spots.

Edited January 18, 2016 by arclance

[Ronald X]

I use ProCreate, with plenty of water as a release agent.  Only let it sit on the pad for a few seconds, and pull it off with a very gentle rock to one side and plenty of vertical pressure.  The hard part really is getting it off without smushing it around too much.  My results from Imperial and Sanctuary:

Edit:  I got a bulk order of ProCreate from an online retailer in Spain a while back.  It's by far my preferred sculpting medium (admittedly, my "sculpting" work is comprised of making bases, small bits like mushrooms or pinecones, and filling gaps).  Works just like GS but is far less sticky.  Hold great detail, lasts for years, and is much easier to work with, for about the same price.

Edited January 17, 2016 by Ronald X

[Jessie]

Wow Ronald your bases turned out fantastic! Great paint job on them as well! 

 

Just posting a link to the finished version of the base I posted above: (here in show-off).

 

I'm working on two more bases that I will paint first then glue the figures to (because these figures are a lot bigger and flatter so should be no problem that they will stick). I have some in-progress photos but will post when I have them painted at least.

 

Ronald - can't get over how great your bases look, seriously, so sharp looking.

[Ronald X]

It's all in the medium.  ProCreate is great stuff for these pads, but it is slightly more expensive than GS, and making a lot of bases tears through it quickly.  What I usually do is use cheaper materials for dirt or sand bases, and only use the Basius pads for specific terrain, which saves a ton of money (not to mention the high cost of the pads themselves!).  My personal opinion though, if you really want to get the best possible detail from your Basius pads, you can't skimp on your putty.

If I could go back in time, I'd have only bought the Sanctuary pad.  Don't get me wrong, the Imperial is nice, but I can do dirt or cavern floors with plaster of paris in a few minutes for pennies on the dollar.  Still looking for something that will let me stamp wooden plank floors to my satisfaction.  The Basius "Homestead" pad isn't to my taste, too narrow and uneven.  If anyone can recommend a good wood floor stamp, I'd be much obliged.  :D

[knarthex]

Pretty sure that Happy Seppuku has at least one. ..

[Erk]

I use my Hirst Arts wood planks mold for bases sometimes. It's not quite as high detail but with a decent paint job it looks pretty nice.

[arclance]

If anyone can recommend a good wood floor stamp, I'd be much obliged. :D

Pretty sure that Happy Seppuku has at least one. ..

Yes Happy Seppuku has some wood floor options.

"Wood-Plank Narrow"

 

"Wood-Knotty"

 

"Splintered Decking" (From last Kickstarter not available yet)

 

They look better to me than the Basius wood floor.

I backed their last Kickstarter to get some things to make bases I don't think the current Basius line covers in a way I like.

Wood floors and roofs are the ones I wanted to get something to make from them the most.

 

My personal opinion though, if you really want to get the best possible detail from your Basius pads, you can't skimp on your putty.

From what I tried I would recommend "2 Part Green Stuff/1 Part Apoxie Sculpt" as the cheapest option that produced excellent results.

The people I showed the pads to today at the game I went to agreed that it had detail equal to Straight Green Stuff but it costs a little less because the Apoxie Sculpt is cheaper than Green Stuff.

It also had the least sticking and release issues of all the pads I made.

This mixture also sets hard which I prefer for things like bases.

 

Straight Green Stuff was the second best for releasing from the pad but had a tendency to get caught on fine details like on the forest pad and stretch the area the caught a little.

"1 Part Green Stuff/1 Part Apoxie Sculpt" was usable but stuck more and held less crisp details than "2 Part Green Stuff/1 Part Apoxie Sculpt" or "Straight Green Stuff" so I would only use it for mass assembly of Tabletop Quality wargame armies.

[ub3r_n3rd]

I really liked my own results that I achieved with the 1:1 GS:Apoxy Sculpt. Didn't crack, very good details, and good texture after drying.