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Learn to Paint miniatures WIP


Melkavar
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I've been working on two of the minis that came with my Reaper Bones Learn to Paint kit. I've tried to follow the directions pretty much step-by-step, and I think they're coming along pretty well.

 

Some observations I've made as a new painter:

 

1) Separated paints need be shaken very thoroughly, even sometimes to the point of popping off the dropper cap and stirring them with a toothpick or something similar before shaking them. Big thanks to Mad Jack and Inarah for pointing this out and suggesting getting some small glass beads to drop in the bottles and act as agitators. I never would have thought of that.

 

2) Some areas will require multiple coats of paint, and you must wait for the previous coat to dry before applying the next one. It doesn't take that long to dry, but if you try to paint over wet paint it will just mess up the first layer. This may be a duh kind of thing, but it's also one I learned by trial and error (mostly error).

 

3) Look at the mini you're painting from a bunch of different angles. This will help you find any spots you missed, and you will miss some. Also, taking pictures can help find areas that need to be touched up. I've found this very useful, so I've started taking pictures whenever I decide to take a break or get to a point where I have to wait for something to dry before moving on. Use the zoom, Luke!

 

It may be that nobody finds any of that useful, but I thought I would share it just in case. It's the kind of things that weren't covered in the painting guide or that I've seen in videos or write-ups that I've watched/read online so far. If anybody has other tips or tricks they use, please let me know. I do learn from mistakes, but I'd rather avoid them if possible. Thanks!

 

Illustration of what separated (read: not shaken enough) green paint looks like applied to a mini's base:

post-14502-0-21879900-1441165118_thumb.jpg

 

Properly shaken green paint applied as a second coat (also note touched up steel toes on boots):

post-14502-0-08907900-1441165237_thumb.jpg

 

Skeleton after base coat, wash, and first drybrush highlight:

post-14502-0-72060700-1441165305_thumb.jpg

 

Skeleton after second drybush highlight and detail colors:

post-14502-0-51755200-1441165408_thumb.jpg

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Update!

 

Applied washes to both figures and drybrushed the honed steel color on the orc's chainmail.

post-14502-0-91678800-1441343892_thumb.jpg

 

Then I figured, "Hey, you're supposed to learn to paint with these figures. Why not experiment a little and see what I can do?" So I thought about what I could do for Mr. Skeleton Archer, and decided I would try mixing up some type of red wash to make him a bloody skeleton from Pathfinder. I applied my "bloody template" to him with a very thing wash of 2 drops of Vallejo Game Color bloody red, 1 drop of Reaper MSP dirty bone, and about 8 drops of water. I liked the result, but wanted more red in the really deep details, so I added some Army Painter Quickshade red tone ink so those parts. For added menace, I mixed 2 drops of Game Color bloody red with 1 drop of Game Color fire orange and added it to the eyes. I really, really like how this turned out, and I may have to paint a skeleton army for use with a necromancer in one of my Pathfinder games.

post-14502-0-89558300-1441344111_thumb.jpg

Edited by Melkavar
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Love what you did, i also made many experiments with the skeleton archers, sadly , they are not as remarkable as yours. Tried to create an arcane skeleton archer, but was too inexperienced for the localized light effect :)

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