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JackMann

Greater Demon of Tzeentch

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I have only seen earth and sky reflections recommended for reflective metal. 

Why do it with white? 

 

Other than that I like the color scheme, I was less happy with my vrock (bones 2) that I painted the feathers a mix of gold and black. 

mine also suffered balance problems but was easier to fix, with a 2" base and pins. 

I do have a second vulture demon but I was thinking something more oulandish like pink and purple - which is also vulture like now that  I think of it. 

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Nice work!

As to painting the base edge, I have been told that the best color is Black. That way the mini is the center of attention, the eye is not drawn toward the base quickly...

 

8)

George

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I have only seen earth and sky reflections recommended for reflective metal. 

Why do it with white? 

 

Other than that I like the color scheme, I was less happy with my vrock (bones 2) that I painted the feathers a mix of gold and black. 

mine also suffered balance problems but was easier to fix, with a 2" base and pins. 

I do have a second vulture demon but I was thinking something more oulandish like pink and purple - which is also vulture like now that  I think of it. 

Because white takes on color values from its surroundings.  Really, everything does this, but it's very obvious with white.  If you have a shadow on a white surface, it will tend to have some color to it.  If it's indoors, or towards the ground, it's likely to have a warm shadow that tends to brown.  If it's outdoors and more towards the sky, it'll tend to have bluer shadows.  I probably went a bit overboard, but the principle is sound.

 

Here's a guide that gives some good advice on shadows.

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Great job!! I've got one of these around someplace, or at least I used to...

 

Having dealt with the whole heavy/only one point of contact, fiddly pieces thing, is there anything you'd suggest I do/don't do?

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So, the raised foot. I'd put something connecting it to the base. Maybe a rock. Something I thought of (though too late; I'd already pinned and glued everything) was to have the claw ripping out of a dying soldier's ribcage.

 

There's also the staff. The connection on the arm makes it really easy to re-angle the staff. You can have that as another point of contact. That's probably the easiest way to do it.

 

Finally, make sure your pin goes entirely through the foot and into the ankle. My first pin just connected the foot to the base without really supporting the rest of the model.

 

If you do these, you should be able to do it without the elephantitis of the ankle.

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