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knarthex

Sculpting a diorama base...

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Hey folks!

 

Been finishing up my exchange minis, but I am going to put them on a 4" x 4" wooden base that I have stained.

I plan on using Green Stuff, because it is what I have to hand....

 

Is there anything I need to do to the wood to make sure the green stuff sticks to it?

 

I would really hate it if it got trashed in shipping or for some other reason because I didn't do the right prep work!

 

Thanks All!

 

8)

George

 

 

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Green stuff sticks pretty good by itself. I've never had a problem with it falling off of things. Just make sure that the green stuff is clean of any lubricants and/or debris as well as the wooden base so that it has a clean surface to adhere to. I'd probably scar up the wooden base a bit too with a knife before putting the green stuff down on it, this is so that it squishes into the cracks and has a better grip.

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Thanks again Ub3r!

About what I thought....

Will get busy with x acto when I get home...

Cross hatching here we come!

 

8)

George

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Thanks again Ub3r!

About what I thought....

Will get busy with x acto when I get home...

Cross hatching here we come!

 

8)

George

Any time, George!  ^_^

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If there's anything tall, like a hill or something, it doesn't hurt to have something underneath, like an epoxied chunk of wood as both an armature and a cheaper filler.

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If there's anything tall, like a hill or something, it doesn't hurt to have something underneath, like an epoxied chunk of wood as both an armature and a cheaper filler.

No, there will be enough to help disguise the bases and hold some rocks and such....

 

Thanks!

 

8)

George

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I think, for added security, it would be wise to seal the wood with epoxy before applying the greenstuff to it. Quite a few timbers (especially tropical hardwoods) retain oils that can be expressed to the surface with variations in heat and humidity, and this may compromise the glue-joint between the putty and raw wood. The epoxy will bond into the surface of the wood, and give you a better adhesion surface for the putty.

 

Note: The chances are pretty good that this will never become an issue, but as insurance it requires little effort.

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Thanks!

Don't think I will have that kind of problem at this time, as I am using a wooden plaque I got at Michael's that I am 99.99% sure is pine.

I have sanded it, stained it with Minwax Ebony Stain, and am on my 4th iteration of that.

Just finished scoring Heck out of the surface, and stained said surface....

 

8)

George

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GS IS epoxy, so will stick just fine and be affected the same as other expoy by resins in the wood.  If applying it to bare woods you should be fine.  I can speak from experience that the stuff bonds very tightly to wood, but not to finished wood.  Finished wood you can chip it off with difficulty,  Unfinished wood, well, its next to impossible to get it off.

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This'll probably sound silly, but take a damp paper towel and wipe it over the wood. It should be wet enough to make the wood visibly damp when you wipe, but not enough to leave puddles behind or anything. ::): This will raise the grain of the wood, making the surface feel rough. It's not a huge difference, but it should be enough to give you a little bit more surface area for the GS to bond with, giving you a better bond overall. Just wait for the wood to be visibly dry again before applying the GS.

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 You can also take a couple of tiny pins with large heads and tap them into the base so that they're only sticking out just a millimeter or two (or use some pinning wire sticking out of the wood, bent at a 90-degree angle at the top) and then form the greenstuff around them so that when it cures it'll require either destroying the greenstuff or pulling out the pins to separate them...

Edited by Mad Jack
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Hey all!

I laid down the 1st layer of Green Stuff last night, making sure that I pushed it down hard into the scorings I made. This left things looking a little lumpy and uneven, but it is all going to be covered with paint and sand anyway, so I think it better that it is lumpy and uneven, it will add some minor visible interest. I then cut out the spaces for the bases that will fit in, and left it to cure over night.

 

Tonight, after checking the fit of the bases, an trimming the GS back a little here and there,  I made little GS worms, and built up the areas around where the bases will sit. Not really trying to do anything but make sure that the bases will go in and out, and only really trying to blend in the GS where the diorama base edges are.

 

Something I learned about doing this kind of diorama with remove-able figures type of base.

Have extra bases of the same size handy to push the new GS against! If they are beveled, do the ring / square, pushing the GS to the old base material to bond it. Then flip it over, and smooth it out with your tools... If you are working with round bases that have slots, a screwdriver will help you twist and turn them to free them. Oh yeah, put some water on the base edges first, or you will pull up the new GS!

Squares are a bit more difficult to do, as you can't spin them to free them...

 

I then put a little stain in the base holes so that it looks ok, even with the figures missing. Will do another coat tomorrow as well.

 

Pics:

Finished for tonight

post-14271-0-50940000-1443575825_thumb.jpg

 

Upside down base in the hole

post-14271-0-90697200-1443575820_thumb.jpg

 

A finished for tonight hole:

post-14271-0-88417200-1443575821_thumb.jpg

 

Using a smaller square base because I didn't have another the right size...

post-14271-0-69757700-1443575823_thumb.jpg post-14271-0-58016800-1443575824_thumb.jpg

 

I plan on adding some more GS tomorrow night after tonight's has cured to smooth things out, and do any last 'blending height' adjustments.

 

Comments and suggestions welcome!

 

8)

George

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I'm late to the party as usual! :D  Not much to add that hasn't already been said.  I do think having a nice not-perfectly-flat amount of GS will help add visual interest in the end.

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