Jump to content

Bleached red effect


Garnfellow
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am preparing to paint the nifty Reaper Bones nabassu demon, and I am struck by the art from the Pathfinder Bestiary. However, it occurs to me I have no idea how to get that bleached out reddish/purplish effect. I've got a pretty decent collection of Reaper paints, but I am strictly a basecoat-wash-drybrush highlights-details guy. I can't seem to get a lighter shade of red without it becoming orange or (worse) Pepto-bismol pink, and this guy definitely shouldn't be pink.

 

How should I tackle this mini? I really don't even know where to start to get that color effect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 11
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

When I look at that artwork, it is more a purple.

 

Maybe you should start with a darker red and work it up to purple. Or maybe even a brown mixed with red.

 

Try this on a test piece to see if it works.

 

If you start too light, you might end up with pink indeed.

Edited by Xherman1964
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am preparing to paint the nifty Reaper Bones nabassu demon, and I am struck by the art from the Pathfinder Bestiary. However, it occurs to me I have no idea how to get that bleached out reddish/purplish effect. I've got a pretty decent collection of Reaper paints, but I am strictly a basecoat-wash-drybrush highlights-details guy. I can't seem to get a lighter shade of red without it becoming orange or (worse) Pepto-bismol pink, and this guy definitely shouldn't be pink.

 

How should I tackle this mini? I really don't even know where to start to get that color effect.

 

First off, welcome to the forum!

 

Secondly, let it go to pink or orange, with the highlights, the trick is to then hit with a few glazes (very very thin, nearly transparent) of red.

 

You can use your base coat of red or something like Reaper's Clear Red. To glaze, you'll wipe most of the watered down paint off your brush using a sponge, or some other non-fibrous material such as a coffee filter or microfiber towel. You want to be able to control the glaze and place it where you want and not allow it to pool. It will dry very quickly and is a very thin coat, you will probably have to apply 6-10+ coats to get it back to a vibrant brighter/lighter red. But it does work very nicely. 

 

Edited to Add: This goes with any colors you use if you get too bright, you can always knock them back down with a glaze of the base color. 

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely glazing could pull this off. I'd probably base coat with drow nipple pink and use a gem purple mixed with drow nipple pink for the shadows ànd strategically glaze hmmmm i not confident with the clear colors yet so if probably use a more purple than red red. If that makes sense. Like bruised red or burgandy red glazes and for the highest highlight THEN I may use a clear red thin glaze.

Edited by MissMelons
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, not sure I'd go into orange for this guy; he definitely looks more cool-toned to me. Lots of blue in that purple. This might be the occasion for lots of red (looks more like a brownish blood red than a bright red, so maybe Bloodstain or Clotted Red would work), blue, and purple (Imperial Purple might be the trick) glazes and washes over a white basecoat? The highlights are pretty desaturated, so mixing in a little light gray would probably let you get as light as you need without letting it get too far into bright pink.

Edited by Slendertroll
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks, this is fantastic. I've never tried glazing before, but I think I mostly understand how it works. Almost all of my paints are from the Reaper Masters series, and many of the glazing tutorials/formulas seem geared for other, thicker paints.

 

The Reaper's Clear Red product: can that be used directly as a glaze, or does it need to be diluted even further?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks, this is fantastic. I've never tried glazing before, but I think I mostly understand how it works. Almost all of my paints are from the Reaper Masters series, and many of the glazing tutorials/formulas seem geared for other, thicker paints.

 

The Reaper's Clear Red product: can that be used directly as a glaze, or does it need to be diluted even further?

Clear Red is, as far as I can tell, just as thick and opaque out of the bottle as any other RMS paint. It definitely needs to be diluted with water and, if you want to get fancy, some Brush-On Sealer. (I find a drop or two makes my washes and glazes behave so much better than straight water!)

Covered very well right here!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Prime it white, Paint it with Leather White, the glaze (in layers) with Old West Rose. Maybe add a a drop of Red in for areas of more intensity or some Red Ink.

 

Then if it is a little more red than you would like, water down the Leather white and glaze upward to the high points.

Edited by Arc 724
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I were aiming for that effect I would base coat in a deep maroon of some sort and bring up highlights in very thin layers of straight white. The combination, which I've used before, produces a startlingly unexpected purple. I'd probably enhance some of the highlights with a mixed violet.

 

It has some warmer, peachy tones around the ears, probably from light coming through them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I want to thank everyone for the helpful advice. This was my first experience glazing, and it definitely won't be my last -- it was pretty clear by just dubbing around this is a handy tool for the toolbox. In the end, I got pretty close to the color tone I was shooting for. The photo isn't particularly flattering -- I think the model looks a little better and closer to the reference when in hand.

 

I started with a red base coat for everything, which looked terrible -- like a dimestore toy. Then I made a very, very thin glaze of Imperial Purple. So thin that after a dozen layers I hadn't made much of a difference. The red got a little deeper and darker, but no real purples emerged. So I made a less thin glaze, and immediately started getting some nice rich blues and purples. Took it a couple of glazes too far: too dark, my nabassu was starting to look like a grape demon. Then I tried to lighten the color by using a thin glaze of pure white, which very quickly started creating that washed out, bleached effect I was looking for. I took the white a glaze or two too far, and needed to do a couple of corrective glazes to get back on track. (I really like how this technique allows one to make subtle corrections.) Gave the whole thing a brown wash, which didn't seem to do much. Then gave it a black wash, which did the trick. Did some highlighting and detailing. I think I took this picture a couple of steps before I finished up. The brushwork is sloppy, and this figure has some hair on his head, back, and legs that didn't really pop very well.

 

Overall, I was happy with my first time using glazes. When I started this thread I had no idea where to start. To do it over again, I would have basecoated with the purple, then glazed red and then white to get the right tone.

post-8236-0-73680400-1445874592_thumb.jpg

Edited by Garnfellow
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Similar Content

    • By Pingo
      So I have gotten comments like this now and again:
       
       
      and again:
       
       
      so I thought I would start a thread to talk some about how I paint, because it works pretty well for me and maybe what I've learned and practiced can help other people too.
       
      How I paint miniatures is grounded in how I paint paintings, so that's what I'm going to talk about here.
       
      I have a series of WIP photos from a recent painting which I will use to demonstrate.
       
      This is the finished painting:

       
      "Nurturing the Phoenix", oil paint on wooden panel, approx. 18"x24" (would have to pull it out of the painting closet and measure to check)
    • By SplotchyInk
      I was painting a Bones stone golem for a game, and I attempted to give it a kind of tree bark looking texture or some kind of wood texture because... frankly they didn't have the miniature I was looking for in stock.  My first thought was to attempt to make it look like muscle, but painting it in wood colors to make it look organic kind of like Groot.  Though I scrapped that and tried a generic bark texture.  Now it looks more like rust on iron in my opinion, so i finished it for now.

      What would you have done to attempt to make this guy look more 'wooden'.


    • By NewbiePainter216
      This thread is designed to advice to disabled people in the hobby. In starting this thread a free exchange of solutions are offered to those posting with difficulties in painting.
       
      Starting off ...I am new to painting and disabled. My Cerebral Palsy makes holding minis somewhat difficult while painting. Admitidlly, my CP is mild compared to most but fine muscle and motor control is a problem. Thus far, many suggested in my other post, http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52019-getting-started/ the use of poster puddy stuck on a graspable surface (upside mud, pill bottle, and wooden doll) tends to work best.
       
      Bracing your brush hand against the table's edge is another idea that has been offered. I am curious to try it when my figures come in next week.
       
      For those who cannot hold the brush, a thought I had was a duplicate to the above but add your brush to the buddy.
       
      Are there any other ideas or methods that you can suggest?
       
       
       
    • By Tranquil Ape
      So, i have started a new project mini, and I have an idea of what i want to do but no clue how to approach it.
       
      The mini will have a light source, lets say a glowing globe in its hand..and i want the light cast from the glow to be shown on the mini...
       
      do i paint the mini as normal first and then gradually buildup transparent layers of the glow color on those appropriate areas where the casted light would fall?
       
      any example images or links woulg be greatly appreciated too... i've seen a few images at Coolminiornot that seem to be doing what i am talking about...
       
      thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...