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SamuraiJack

MSP Bones HD paints..

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Some people thin the liners a bit, some add a drop of a lighter color, I sort of scrub the mini with an old brush and a small amount of liner so that it's not such a dark base layer.  The liners do stick to Bones amazingly well.  Absolutely the best undercoat for metallic paint on Bones, too. 

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Some people thin the liners a bit, some add a drop of a lighter color, I sort of scrub the mini with an old brush and a small amount of liner so that it's not such a dark base layer.  The liners do stick to Bones amazingly well.  Absolutely the best undercoat for metallic paint on Bones, too. 

 

As i read, it works like sort of a primer isnt it? are they better or different that the brush on primer that reaper has?

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Most people really want to minimize the thickness of their paint layers, especially on Bones, so as to not obscure the sculpted details.  The liners tend to appear very thin and have the bonus of being useful for defining various areas.  The downside is that they are very dark as a primer, which is sometimes a problem.  The Bones 3 Kickstarter had a sepia liner which I'm very excited to try. 

 

I really didn't intend to derail this thread with talk of liners, it's just that they're now famous for their ability to stick to Bones, so I was hoping for some sort of comparison between them and the new Bones line of paints.  I guess in the end I'll just have to buy a couple of the new paints and try them out.  When it comes to the big dragons I'm willing to buy a bottle of paint to base coat it if it saves me time.  ^_^

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Some people thin the liners a bit, some add a drop of a lighter color, I sort of scrub the mini with an old brush and a small amount of liner so that it's not such a dark base layer.  The liners do stick to Bones amazingly well.  Absolutely the best undercoat for metallic paint on Bones, too.

 

 

As i read, it works like sort of a primer isnt it? are they better or different that the brush on primer that reaper has?

 

I made the liner discovery when trying to solve a problem somebody encountered when following my advice. Specifically they had trouble getting Walnut colour to adhere to Bones. I decided to see if Brown Liner would do as a substitute, since I had some on hand. I then discovered, in the process of making sure it would prove durable, that it proved extremely durable. To an amazing extent. Not knowing which paints might have trouble at the time, I began to recommend it as a "make sure" layer to avoid adhesion issues. Other people experimented with the other liners and proved the durability was inherent to all, not just the brown.

 

So it can be used like a primer but it isn't a primer per se. It won't work its magic on metals, say. But for plastics it can be used as a durable primer layer because anything you paint over it should stick like nobody's business. If it's a piece that you'll use in play a lot, the liner layer will help it hold up to wear.

 

All of this is an unintended enhancement discovered by us users, not something planned, recommended, or endorsed by Reaper itself. Reaper makes liners to do lining, any use beyond that is just sugar on top. We put it through a lot of testing, though, and it's worked. It's a handy and neat tool to use, but doesn't have any official classification. Just a neato side effect we found.

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Using liners as primer has the added benefit of actually behaving as a liner as well. Priming dark like that allows you to leave your crevices and hard-to-reach spots dark, and lets you essentially pre-line, rather than going in after to carefully brush in your lines. I believe this was Buglips's original intention with the ill-fated Walnut Brown.

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The majority of Reaper paints, and many other acrylic based paints, should work just fine on Bones. The Bones surface is a little hydrophobic, so the key is to not add any water to the first layer of paint. (If you have older paints that have thickened in the bottle, add a little bit of water until they are flowing well and are the consistency of new Reaper paints.) Reaper brush-on primer (and likely other brush-on primers) also works well. You can also use the Reaper brush-on sealer as a primer, so that's a good option for those of you who don't want a darker 'primer'. You can tint it slightly with a drop of paint if you find it hard to see the details on Bones but still want a bright starting colour. Doing a 'primer' coat of paint with the colour of the largest surface on the figure is another way to go. That also gives you a leg up on your basecoat for the largest area and saves time.

 

One thing that helps a lot is to wash your Bones with soap and water prior to painting. There can be residue left on the figures from production, packing, and handling. Attach the figure to a 'handle' of some sort while painting to minimize how much you touch it during painting. If possible, paint your figures 1-3 days before playing with them. Acrylic paint (and primer, and sealer) can feel dry to the touch within minutes, but it continues to cure to full strength for a day or so after application. (All of this advice also applies to metal and resin miniatures, too.) Once you have a coat of something on the Bones surface, you can use thinned paint techniques to your heart's content.

Dosani - Reaper paints are a little more fluid in the bottle than some other brands. They are pretty much the correct consistency for basecoats right out of the bottle. For thinning applications like layering, glazing, washing etc., you will not need to add as much water/medium as you might with other brands. Try to do the comparison by look and feel rather than ratios of water drops. What I mean is, thin down a paint you're familiar with to the consistency that works for you. Look at how it acts on your brush, on the palette, and when applied to paper with text on it. So look for how transparent or opaque it is, how well it flows, stuff like that. Then take a Reaper paint and add a little water. Test it to see if it seems similar in consistency. If not, add a little more water and test again. Note that different colours may behave differently, and this is true of any brand of paint. Reds and yellows are pretty transparent with just a little water. Paints with a lot of white in them are usually much more opaque and require more water to be thinned down to use for blending or glazes. You might need to test a little more than how the paint feels. Some paints feel much more plastic or thicker than others, but might not necessarily need more water to be at the correct opacity for painting with. Learn to judge thinning paint of any brand by how to paint behaves for what you're trying to do, rather than a set formula.

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I cannot allow this.  The paint rack I built only holds 276 paint bottles and I've already filled it!!!

 

My brain holds only so many colors, and I've already filled it.

 

Previously I had specific "roles" assigned to all my MSP triads and all my HD paints, so that I could confidently select the "right" paint for any given task.

 

Now all that careful planning is out the window.

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I'm coming late to this party... having found this due to free xmas paint

 

I think the Bones line is a great idea.  The existing reaper paint line can be a bit daunting... soo many triads and soo many colors.  Having a more basic range of colors (we can mix after all!) can make the whole "building a paint collection" less intimidating.

 

Plus - more colors is always good - i mean really who wants to mix ? ;)

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Was it mentioned anywhere yet if the Bones HD will be packaged up and sold in a set(s) like the current HD was?  Just planning for the enevitable...

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WOW i just started painting miniatures and in my last shipment I got a free paint and it is  #09410 Ancient Oak lucky me lol.

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Something from Reapers Facebook page this morning.

Orders placed through Reapers Online store during the month of December will get a random bottle from the new upcoming Bones HD paint line.

IMG_0430_zps4fsxtljg.jpg

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