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Limey72

A quick priming question

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I use P3 White and Black sprays, at about $10 per (12oz / 340g) can, it's more expensive than krylon et al, but I feel the results are worth it. Have not tried the Tamiya or other 'model' brands except for GW. 

Don't Go There!

 

Oh and Testor's way back in the day....

 

George

 

 

Look at the nozzle of your P3 primer, then go to your nearest full service auto parts store and look at the Patented Nozzle on the cans of Duplicolor.

 

P3 is Duplicolor primer at a 2.5X markup.

 

Good to know!

Will have to try a can of each and see for myself!

Napa, Auto Zone etc?

 

George

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I've found Duplicolor at every auto parts store that Ive tried in Houston though no every store has all of the colors. O'Reilly's is the one that reliably carries white locally. Grey, black, and rust are easier to find.

 

Make sure to get the Sandable Primer variety.

 

Ron

 

PS: I've read reports that Duplicolor doesn't do so well on Bones, but I've not tried using Duplicolor on Bones.

Edited by vutpakdi

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…

 

PS: I've read reports that Duplicolor doesn't do so well on Bones, but I've not tried using Duplicolor on Bones.

 

Don't use a spray primer on Bones. Reaper Brown Liner comes highly recommended as a base coat for Bones, but any good acrylic paint should stick directly to the plastic well, after you've given the figure a thorough washing.

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You could say then that this is asking for a primer.... about primer!

 

* crickets chirping *

 

What I've found:

 

- Krylon is a big no-no on Bones. Months to dry and it seems to have chemically damaged the plastic since they're all rubbery now.

- Tamiya Fine Surface Primer works excellently. But it's quite expensive unless you prime whole sets of Bones all at once.

- Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer is okay. Drying time is a bit long, but it does dry and it seems to not have any major problems.

- Brown Liner is what many here swear by. It works with no issues, except it's not the best coat to start glazing on top, color-wise.

- Badgers Stynylrez works excellently, priming with just a few fast drying drops. For coverage / price, it's quite inexpensive. Only drawbacks are you need an airbrush setup, which is expensive, and it's next to impossible to type or pronounce.

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You could say then that this is asking for a primer.... about primer!

 

* crickets chirping *

 

What I've found:

 

- Krylon is a big no-no on Bones. Months to dry and it seems to have chemically damaged the plastic since they're all rubbery now.

- Tamiya Fine Surface Primer works excellently. But it's quite expensive unless you prime whole sets of Bones all at once.

- Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer is okay. Drying time is a bit long, but it does dry and it seems to not have any major problems.

- Brown Liner is what many here swear by. It works with no issues, except it's not the best coat to start glazing on top, color-wise.

- Badgers Stynylrez works excellently, priming with just a few fast drying drops. For coverage / price, it's quite inexpensive. Only drawbacks are you need an airbrush setup, which is expensive, and it's next to impossible to type or pronounce.

[Googles product]

 

Inexpensive? That sucker is expensive! Though it does seem to be big bottles. It's the acrylic polyurethane one, right?

 

Out of curiosity, have you tried it as a brush-on primer?

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You could say then that this is asking for a primer.... about primer!

 

* crickets chirping *

 

What I've found:

 

- Krylon is a big no-no on Bones. Months to dry and it seems to have chemically damaged the plastic since they're all rubbery now.

- Tamiya Fine Surface Primer works excellently. But it's quite expensive unless you prime whole sets of Bones all at once.

- Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer is okay. Drying time is a bit long, but it does dry and it seems to not have any major problems.

- Brown Liner is what many here swear by. It works with no issues, except it's not the best coat to start glazing on top, color-wise.

- Badgers Stynylrez works excellently, priming with just a few fast drying drops. For coverage / price, it's quite inexpensive. Only drawbacks are you need an airbrush setup, which is expensive, and it's next to impossible to type or pronounce.

[Googles product]

 

Inexpensive? That sucker is expensive! Though it does seem to be big bottles. It's the acrylic polyurethane one, right?

 

Out of curiosity, have you tried it as a brush-on primer?

 

Inexpensive for coverage. It takes 2, maybe 3 drops to cover a Medium mini when airbrushed, and you get 6 / 12 oz with the variety pack (black / gray / white), which I think should be enough to prime the entirety of Bones? It's certainly cheaper than trying to prime the same amount with Tamiya FSP. The 32 oz bottles do give sticker shock, yes, but I can't imagine using that much on minis. That's about the equivalent of the rest of my mini paints combined!

 

No, but you raise a good point. I'll try it out and report back my findings. For science!

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Brown liner was mentioned, do you thin it first and will it prime metallics?

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I use P3 White and Black sprays, at about $10 per (12oz / 340g) can, it's more expensive than krylon et al, but I feel the results are worth it. Have not tried the Tamiya or other 'model' brands except for GW. 

Don't Go There!

 

Oh and Testor's way back in the day....

 

George

 

 

Look at the nozzle of your P3 primer, then go to your nearest full service auto parts store and look at the Patented Nozzle on the cans of Duplicolor.

 

P3 is Duplicolor primer at a 2.5X markup.

 

Good to know!

Will have to try a can of each and see for myself!

Napa, Auto Zone etc?

 

George

 

 

I reached that conclusion a few years ago when priming the minis for GenCon Paint & Take. Had both Duplicolor Sandable White and P3 White to use that day.

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Brown liner was mentioned, do you thin it first and will it prime metallics?

 

Yes, just with water, and not more than any other acrylic paint; I wouldn't suggest it.

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Don't add water to the liner for Bones. Nothing good could come from it. It works fine straight out of the bottle.

Unless you are using an airbrush, then thin up to 50%.

I did this for my Grex airbrush, and it worked great!

 

George

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