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OSL help Kingdom death kingsman

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Hello again,  for anyone following them, I haven't forgotten about the berserk bust or Cthulhu, but they are on hold at the moment.  

 

Currently, I am working on a kingdom death Kingsman figure.  with my kingdom death pieces I want to really play up the darkness of the world and try to improve my grasp of OSL.  I have taken what I know about doing osl painting (darkish fiigure, muted colors, light diffusing as it travels farther from the source) but am still not getting the results I would like.  So, I ask for any critiques and suggestions on how I can improve my OSL look.  I wanted a yellowish light emanating from the lamp on his halbred.  I went with true metalic metal as I cant imagine trying to learn OSL and NMM on a single figure,  too mind blowing.  

 

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

 

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Ok, for OSl, sometimes the figure is not enough to get the full effect.  Meaning the best OSL we see often has scenery behind it.  Here is an example from Victoria Lamb that shows the power of background in creating an OSL effect.  Now, for a gaming mini its harder to pull off, because the only areas that will get hit by the light are close to the source depending on how intense you want the light.  Also remember that the key to OSL is contrast.  While that often means "muted" colors, in actuality it means darken the heck out of the shadows furthest from the light- like blacker than a merchant's heart dark.   :poke:   Also, I find using metallic paint to create light problematic because it isn't always "light" enough.  Sometimes an off-white or true white will pop better than a metallic reflection.  If you want a super white white, titanium is good.

 

Here is the OSl I'm doing on DDS2:

 

 

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When looking at a light source, it should be the lightest thing in the piece.  Which means if the rest of the piece has any highlighting, we have to make the light source even lighter than the highest highlight.  The color of light will also shift as we move away from the source, depending on the color of light. 

 

Look at the light here:

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See how it is brightest next to the source and shifts to red then purple as it fades?  For the most part, OSl seems to require color washes to capture the effect.  So, while I don't think you need to go NMM on the figure, the light source at least needs to be painted in a bright yellow and white.  It must be the brightest part of the mini.  For the reflections on the armor, if you want to avoid NMM, then do true metallic shading and highlight your metal with something like pearl white or a lighter gold.  Conversely, anything in shadow needs to be painted brown or black- yes, even in metal, the shadowed area does not cast light/reflect, so does not need to be done in metallic paint!

 

Also, see how in the lantern photo the bars of the lantern cast shadow?  Use this idea.  Paint dark shadows in areas that are not directly hit by the light.  Anything on the opposite side of the light will be in shadow.  while this doesn't mean without any highlighting, it means that at least 50% of the surface needs to live in the shadow tone and only say at most 10% can live in a lighter range.

 

Here's a good example of using shadows to sell light.

 

I can see the light on the armor and shoulder really well in your pics.  It definitely reads as a light effect!  The key is going to be darkening everything else to get the contrast and making the ball-thingy on the halberd lighter.

 

I guess the take away on OSL is in order for there to be light, there must be shadow.  deep, eh? ::):

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I'm not an expert, but OSL works when there is contrast between the lighted areas and the rest of the miniature.

 

So, brightening the source would be the first step.  The source should be the brightest point on the miniature.

 

Second, you need contrast with the shaded areas. Thus, deeper shade areas.

 

Also, remember that the most reflective parts of the armor are going to reflect 100% of the light.  So, your edges need to be as bright as the source, but they will necessarily be small highlights.

 

Finally, I've always placed a OSL-painted miniature against a black background to help figure out if it looks right.  Placing the figure against a light background confuses the brain:  It's light, no it's dark, no light aHHHH!

 

Edit:  Oh, and what Corporea said.

Edited by Doug's Workshop
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Cool,  Thanks again.  I really appreciate all the help guys!  I'll try to get some pics up as I try to make use of some of these suggestions.

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Ok,  so I took some more pictures over lunch.  I tried doing some of the suggestions, but I'm not sure if I took a step forward or not.  Part of the difference is I did use a darker backdrop, and I also took the pictures at home during lunch where I have a much better photobox than I do here at work, or at least better lighting.    I tried brightening up the amount of pure white from the lamp.  using brighter gold on the bronze pieces closest to the light source.  using washes of yellow, red, and purple as the light gets further from the source, and using some white lining on some of the metal edges near the light source.  I also hit the shadows and areas away from the source with several more glazes of dark blue black, and hit the deepest shadows with a mixture of black/nightmareblack.  

 

What do you think?

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Take a black and white photo of it in the intended amount of light against a neutral background. So if it's intended for Tabletop, then regular ambient lighting or harsher lighting if it's meant for display. And with the background, a simple solid neutral color like grey or midtone blue, should help.

 

It is the best way to tell if your osl contrast is drastic enough.

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Ok, I think that definitely helped me to see it, but as it is there are metalic surfaces showing up brighter than might be expected for it's distance from the light source.  Should these be dialed down or left the way they are due to metal being reflective?

 

You guys are great by the way!!!!

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