Jump to content

77183 Frost wyrm + ice (photo heavy)


Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,
 
I've been side tracked for a while but still managed to do some stuff on my models for my Ice diorama.
 
I wanted to use my 2 Shaerileth spiders http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/65465-77180-shaerileth-spider-demoness/ together with a Frost wyrm in an ice cave diorama. I bought some Fimo effects clay to see if I could create a cool ice effect.

I bought a pack of translucent white and a pack of ice blue

post-14632-0-95585200-1448455335_thumb.jpg

 

I tried 3 different things, first I did a thin layer(about 2 mm) of blue and on top of that a thin layer of the white, made some cracks in it and baked it. When it was backed I added a bit of a blue wash on the underside and filled the cracks with a white wash.

post-14632-0-43012100-1448455278_thumb.jpg

 

Next I made a blue layer, again about 2 mm thick and a white layer of the same thickness, made some cracks and baked both

Blue, with a light blue wash on the underside and some white wash in the cracks

post-14632-0-45897700-1448455319_thumb.jpg

 

White, with only a bit of white wash in the cracks

post-14632-0-38920900-1448455328_thumb.jpg

 

The translucency is a lot less than I expected, but the sort of bubbles/patches in the material look pretty convincing for ice with snow or air trapped in it.

I am still not sure which of the 3 I will use and maybe I will come up with something completly different to mimic an Ice sheet. Getting the Fimo to a nice thin sheet is a lot of work and took me close to 3 hours for the three of them.  :blink:

 

Which one do you all think looks like the best replication of ice?

 

While baking the different Ice sheets I started on my Frost Wyrm. I cleaned most of the mould lines, washed it, glued it together, added some green stuff in between the parts and primed it with my airbrush and Vallejo Game air Wolf Grey.

When it was primed i noticed a lot more imperfections so I redid the whole thing and added some more green stuff. It seems I find it hard to leave things without some modification so I added an extra horn on his head, redid his right jaw and added some feelers to the side of his head. I also added some green stuff to have all the rocky/scaley things on his back to cover the transition between parts.

I then primed the wyrm again with my airbrush and Vallejo game air Wolf Grey.

 

post-14632-0-17968500-1448455347_thumb.jpg  post-14632-0-52329800-1448455355_thumb.jpg

 

post-14632-0-95084500-1448455362_thumb.jpg  post-14632-0-55255000-1448455371_thumb.jpg

 

post-14632-0-67085700-1448455377_thumb.jpg  post-14632-0-35171100-1448455384_thumb.jpg

 

I have been trying a few different color scemes on paper to find what will best suits him but I am still thinking about which I will use.

Progress will probably be slow, since I have a ton of other things to do and I am also working on a side project.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by SpiritOfMadness
  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

They could all represent ice pretty well depending on the location.  I think the first is the best representation of shallower ice, like on a pond or puddle--or vertically, it looks like the side of a dirty glacier.  The last one looks exactly like packed snow/ice, possibly on a road or field.  The middle reminds me of a deep frozen body--an ice sheet in Antarctica.The lack of deep transparency doesn't hurt anything to my eyes.  Can't wait to see more.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply guys!

 

Since I want to make part of an ice cave I think Much like BlZeebub and Bruunwald, using the first ice for the vertical icewalls of the cave and the third for the plains in front and a part inside..

I am working on another experiment to see if making tapered pieces stuck together will give me a darker lower section and a lighter higher section of ice walls.. The Fimo is really hard to get to a soft condition and the ice blue is even britle when you start and takes a lot of kneading to get it somewhat pliable.. I definitely need to buy more of both of the clays since those packs are really tiny, 2oz or 56grams each and think I will buy some clay softer with it.

 

I want to build up the cave walls with blue foam and then glue the clay pieces onto it.. Its going to be tough to mold the clay into shape against the foam, taking it of the foam and try to keep the form while baking it.

Do any of you maybe have any suggestions on how I could tackle that problem without to much fuzz?

 

For the wyrm I just cant decide what color sceme to use.. I might just keep it with blues and whites, maybe some green.. Aaargh.. choices, choices.. ::D:

 
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Thanks for the reply guys!

 

Since I want to make part of an ice cave I think Much like BlZeebub and Bruunwald, using the first ice for the vertical icewalls of the cave and the third for the plains in front and a part inside..

I am working on another experiment to see if making tapered pieces stuck together will give me a darker lower section and a lighter higher section of ice walls.. The Fimo is really hard to get to a soft condition and the ice blue is even britle when you start and takes a lot of kneading to get it somewhat pliable.. I definitely need to buy more of both of the clays since those packs are really tiny, 2oz or 56grams each and think I will buy some clay softer with it.

 

I want to build up the cave walls with blue foam and then glue the clay pieces onto it.. Its going to be tough to mold the clay into shape against the foam, taking it of the foam and try to keep the form while baking it.

Do any of you maybe have any suggestions on how I could tackle that problem without to much fuzz?

 

For the wyrm I just cant decide what color sceme to use.. I might just keep it with blues and whites, maybe some green.. Aaargh.. choices, choices.. ::D:

 

 

Maybe try Sculpy instead of Fimo?

I was shocked at how easy it was to knead the sculpey first time I tried it....

 

George

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What George said on trying Sculpey (Super Sculpey is stiffer I believe) instead or just mixed in a bit.

 

As for the sculpting against blue board issue...  Can you line the board with wax paper (greased even) and sculpt against that?  The remove the whole thing and gently peel the paper off.  Haven't tried the exact method, but I do a lot of my flat-backed sculpting on wax paper.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does sculpey have special effects clay? The fimo is translucent and gives that nice patches effect.. I have 2 big blocks of sculpey, but that is gray so not really useful for what i intend to use it for..

 

The wax paper seems like a good idea, I will give it a try on a small test piece.. maybe even later tonight..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does sculpey have special effects clay? The fimo is translucent and gives that nice patches effect.. I have 2 big blocks of sculpey, but that is gray so not really useful for what i intend to use it for..

 

The wax paper seems like a good idea, I will give it a try on a small test piece.. maybe even later tonight..

There's a transparent Sculpey III.  Another polymer clay like Pardo might work as well.  Sculpey is just what I (and apparently a lot of forum members) am used to.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Does sculpey have special effects clay? The fimo is translucent and gives that nice patches effect.. I have 2 big blocks of sculpey, but that is gray so not really useful for what i intend to use it for..

 

The wax paper seems like a good idea, I will give it a try on a small test piece.. maybe even later tonight..

There's a transparent Sculpey III.  Another polymer clay like Pardo might work as well.  Sculpey is just what I (and apparently a lot of forum members) am used to.

 

Thanks, I'll see if i can find it somewhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I gave the wyrm a base coat yesterday evening with a mix of vallejo Game Color Nightblue mixed with GC Turquoise and a touch of Model Color Transparent Blue. for the belly scales, head and fins  I used a mix of GC Glacier Blue and a tiny drop of GC Turquoise.

After that I gave the whole thing a wash mixed from GC Nightblue and MC Transparent Blue.. It looked horrible :blink:  After that I drybrushed him/her with gc turquoise adding a bit of gc glacierblue on each next layer.. Unfortunately my battery was empty so I didnt take any more Photo's except for the basecoats

 

post-14632-0-36272900-1448550753_thumb.jpg     post-14632-0-48535300-1448550765_thumb.jpg

 

This morning I saw what I had produced and it looked like euhm.. well.. that brown stuff.. I was relatively pleased with the head so i didn't change much except for some more dry brushing so far. The scales/stones on his/her back I repainted with MC Deep Sky Blue. The belly scales I did with a semi dry brushing coat of GC Off White, then with MC Ivory and last with GC Dead White. It looked nice, but I wanted to add a bit of color so i glaced it with MC Salmon Rose.. I didn't pop enough for me so i redid the glacing with GC Squid Pink. I will do 1 or 2 more layers of glacing in the recesses with the Squid Pink later. 

 

post-14632-0-25467600-1448550773_thumb.jpg     post-14632-0-30643000-1448550779_thumb.jpg     post-14632-0-02115000-1448550785_thumb.jpg

 

Still debating on what color I should use for the fins or the legs..

 

Any C&C is always appreciated

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

From Wiki:

A remorhaz resembles a gigantic (5 feet (1.5m) wide and 20 feet (6m) long) centipede, only with longer legs. It is segmented, and each segment is jagged and heavily armored. The lower segments of its body bear legs, while the uppermost ones have webbed spines which look like a cobra's fan. Protruding from the back, with two on each segment, are big, red, jewel-like lumps which radiate extreme heat. The jagged, bladed head of the Remorhaz has four antenna-like growths, two coming from the chin/cheeks and two from the forehead. The Remorhaz is bluish-white in color, but has a reddish glow caused by its extreme body heat. The remorhaz has two little wings on its back that can hold the upper part of its body in the air, while the lower remains on the ground.

 

For what its worth...

 

George

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Similar Content

    • By DragonWyrm
      The Medium
      I personally find the blended fibers medium by Liquitex to be a highly versatile medium. It can be added to any ground mixture to add the appearance of natural roots and similar debris. In this tutorial I will be looking at how to make an ice base using it. It is important to remember that in most cases the ice is hardly crystal clear and instead it generally appears cloudy white. The blended fibbers have a slight translucency which allows for the illusion of depth, while each fiber acts like a crack in the ice.


      The Ice
      Step 1: Base colour

      Use a dark base. Then tint it with the colour you want. In this case I used Cerulean Blue. This step can be skipped if you are going to be tinting the medium instead (thought a darker base colour is still advised)

      Step 2: Apply Fiber Medium

      Slather on a large dollop of medium. You can add some colour to tint it, but the colour will change significantly as it dries so be carful to not overpower it (you don't even need to mix it well as streaking colours may be desired). Transparent colours work better for tinting if you still want to retain the depth. In this case I did not tint it.

      Step 3: Smooth the Medium

      I did this by wetting a pallet knife and running it over the surface, followed by cleaning up the edges. The Fiber medium is extremely easy to smooth with a wet pallet knife. The thickness decides how much translucency the final product has.

      Step 4: Let it Dry

      In this case I liked how it looked so I decided not to dry brush it with white. Drybrushing with white would make it look more frosty.  This took a couple hours for me, mostly due to the thickness I chose. You can see how the blue is showing in the photo, that is the undercoat peaking through.


      The Snow 
      Step 1: Snow

      Mix some medium with Titanium white. This will make a nice snow texture

      Step 2: Applying Snow

      Apply the snow and feather it out with a brush, the feathering out makes it look more realistic. If you don't want peaks use water to smooth the snow (unless you want peaks to represent sticks in the snow.)

      Step 3: Let it Dry 

      The base is now finished. 


      The Miniature

      Put a miniature on it. Thats what a base is for. Unless you want to use it as a trap in DnD or some terrain.
       
    • By brsdr
      Inspired by others 'project threads' - and with a return to face-to-face gaming on the horizon - I thought I'd start my own thread of minis I'm painting for WOTC's Icewind Dale: Rime of the Frostmaiden (D&D 5e).
       
      If nothing else this will help to keep me focused on the relevant bits of my unpainted pile, despite all the Bones V calling out to me 🙂
       
      Feedback welcome - with the caveat that I'm an average painter at best, and aiming for table use not display!
       
      Anyone planning on playing this campaign might not want to read further; the minis will inevitably spoil some of the encounters.
       
      To start off, I've lined up the following:
       
      Grimtalon the Roc (Reaper 77946)
      Frost Giant Skeleton (Gale Force 9 71127)
      Kings of War: Northern Alliance Clansmen (Mantic Games MGKWL301) 
      Frost Shaman Boudi (Hasselfree HFH187) 
      Frost Mage Matthias (Hasselfree HFH199)
      Semira Marise (Hasselfree HFX023)
      Polar Bear (WizKids DeepCuts WZK73727-W9)
       
      Hoping to get cracking this weekend. There's also a dragon on the way, and maybe a few others...
       
       
       

    • By Metalchaos
      Happy New Year's Eve everyone. To end the year with a little snow, I completed this base today. I had painted the Yeti two years ago, and he was only lacking a thematic basis. This is the Bones version of 77434, Yeti Chieftain sculpted by Jason Wiebe. The artificial snow is BF4103 from Army Painter Battlefields. The icicles were made with pieces of translucent plastic and gloss Mod Podge.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

    • By MoonglowMinis
      First time showing something off on the forums! Normally only post to my instagram @MoonglowMinis
       
      Had a blast painting this one up! Had to tap into my painterly side to get the glow effect I wanted and to transition the plating down to the end of the tail where there was no sculpted detail. 
       
      Hope you all like it!
       

       

    • By lexomatic
      So I've painted up a couple of sample pieces of my 4bot tiles and to try out an ice recipe. I thought I'd get some feedback. It seems a bit too sea glass for me.
      Phtalo green (yellow ink) +medium, then drybrush of teal, turquoise, pale blue, and adding white.
      Also included a pic of previous recipe using turquoise ink and pale blue, then white drybrush.
      And materials Thoughts?
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 23 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...