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Designs include cobblestone, cobblestone, green 40K, and yeah I'll pick up more cobblestone.
Made in the USA. Economic disruption in China has shut down non-essential production, including plastic injection figures.
Q&A on Dakka : https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/785873.page
Sauriana is a 32mm tabletop skirmish game set in an alternate 19th century, where dinosaurs once again roam the earth, paleontology drives the economy, and new world powers lurk in the shadows.
Players build their band of daring and intrepid agents, and battle against their opponents in a fast-paced, narrative gameplay experience where fortune favors the bold and hiring the right men, women, and beasts for the job mean the difference between success and failure, life and death.
Gameplay in Sauriana is straightforward and intuitive, and getting into the game is affordable. The goal of this Kickstarter is to launch our game in its most complete form - successful funding will allow us to produce our starter box for the game, as well as faction starters to get players into the game from the ground up. Most of our initial miniatures are sculpted, molded, and cast, ready for launch, and any funding in excess of our goal will go towards expanding our miniature range to provide even more great models for players and hobbyists.
Our 32mm scale resin miniatures are just exude detail and personality! 32mm Scale - compatible with most game ranges and terrain. High quality multi-part resin miniatures cast by our partners at Secret Weapon Miniatures, and sculpted by some of the best in the industry. PLAY A normal game will number 3-10 miniatures per player. We make it easy for players to get into the game! This Kickstarter is meant to fund both the starter set, and faction starters - everything you need to get started in one box. 3 x 3 game table is suitable for normal play, though the game can be expanded with more miniatures per side and more terrain. Objective-based gameplay with a heavy narrative focus. Rules for Expeditions - Campaign play to chronicle the journey of your Posse, encouraging you to personalize your force. Assets and Equipment add a massive amount of tactical depth and synergy, equipping your Expedition with the right weapons, armor, tools and instincts to maximize their potential in the game. Unique D20 system for simple, effective gameplay basics. Dinosaurs! Steampunk Automatons! Time Travel! A Game Like No Other...
My name is Sam Nolton, and I've been developing Sauriana for almost four years. It's gone through a number of iterations, including our planned 54mm version I attempted to raise funds for in 2016. I've listened to the community's feedback, and put a lot of work into bringing to life what I believe is the best possible version of this game.
The miniatures, aesthetic, narrative, and themes of Sauriana are all extensions of myself, it's the game I've always wanted to play- and I hope it will appeal to others as well. Drawing inspiration from a number of genres, as well as real-world history (most notably the Great Dinosaur Rush or "Bone Wars" of the 19th century), I am truly excited to present this game to the Kickstarter crowd with the hopes of bringing it to life.
I'll edit this once I switch from my phone to my PC.
OK, I got these just last week but I wanted to use them at the Origins Game Fair in Columbus, OH, June 14-17, so I got to work the day they arrived and started washing them with dish soap and hot water. I couldn't wait for them to dry so I started designing the layout while they were still wet!
Next day I glued them in place. They are mounted on expanded foam insulation, this particular brand comes in 1/2 inch thickness, 14.5 by 48 inches. It is used to go between 2x4 wall studs, hence the odd width. Any way, it a good size for modular gaming terrain once cut down to 24 inches and doubled up. I used Gorilla brand glue to attache the tiles to the substrate; I knew PVA (Elmers) glue would not stick well to the PVC tiles from trying it on Reaper Bones, and CA (Superglue) glue does not play nice with expanded foam. The Gorilla glue I used dried white; it looks strange against the gray tiles, but as it was all getting painted anyway it did not matter. Two properties of Gorilla glue I had forgotten worked in my favor. First, it requires a little moisture to cure, and so it didn't matter the tiles were not entirely dry after one day. I also used a sponge to dampen the flat underside of all the tiles. Second the glue expands! The tiles don't fit together well and have a lot of gaps, so the expanding glue helped fill in those gaps. I had to go back later and trim some of the excess glue but that was easy with a hobby knife. By the way you might want to use gloves if you're using Gorilla glue; it sticks to skin pretty well, too.
After another day of drying I first painted all the exposed foam with black craft paint to protect it from the next step. I then sprayed the piece with Army Painted black primer; the solvents in most spray paints will dissolve expanded foam, and indeed some on this piece was pockmarked even though it was covered in acrylic paint first. After a few hours I then applied the first, heavy "damp" brush of a slate gray interior household paint I picked up on the clearance "oops" rack at Walmart. I used this kind of cheap interior paint to base coat my terrain; it's cheap and durable, but it takes longer to dry and does not cover as well if not applied heavily. Hence the "damp" brush instead of a true dry brush. Once that was cured I followed up with some dry brushed dolphin gray craft paint. I then used Reaper brown wash to paint all the wood and metal rails. I lightly stippled the rails with some silver paint and then did a second, lighter dry brush with the dolphin gray. The next day I mixed some black and brown craft paint and made a wash, and used some Reaper Red, Green and Blue liners to add some variation to the stone. Once all that dried I then applied a final, very light dry brush of a cream color.
There is more I'd like to do to this piece, like add some lighting and the mine carts that came with the SW KS reward, and filling in some more gaps in the walls, but I think this will do for now. And I have almost half of my reward left yet for another piece.
I really like these tiles; I see me buying more soon. Well done, MisterJustin and Secret Weapon Minis.
I'm a totally novice painter. I got tired of staring longingly at all the painted minis online and then at all my plain boring unpainted minis and finally decided to give it a try. I'm working my way thru both LTPKs (and all the similar looking minis I have) and I have this issue with washes that I couldn't find an answer for in past topics (I could have just missed it, apologies if that is the case)
I follow the directions in the LTPK, for example when painting Anirion the Wizard, I base coated his hands and face in the flesh tone and then it says to make a wash with 1 drop dark highlight and 3 drops water but when I used it, it left these little speckles on the flesh tone instead of just sinking into the crevices, like teeny granular blobs.
Likewise, when I painted the Orc from LTPK1 (and 2 of his cousin's that I already happened to own) when I used the wash, it dried leaving dark splotches on the paint instead of just going in the nooks and crannies, like little water spots but darker. Especially around the base of the spikes on the armor and shield.
Am I not thinning the wash enough? I know for sure that I am letting the paint fully dry between layers because the first time I didn't let the basecoat dry all the way before adding the wash and boy was that a disaster.
I will edit to add pics later if needed, can't seem to get them off my phone right now.
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