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Thinning Reaper Paints???


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So what do you all use for thinning your paint?  I am using reaper paints and have been told by some of you all that I need to thin out my paints. I have tried adding water(distilled) but the pigment doesn't seem to stick together. I have been doing a 50/50 mix. Is this the ratio? Do I need flow Aid? Or acrylic matte medium? Or Slow-dri? If so what formula do you use?  I know it's a lot of questions sorry just looking to get better at my painting.Thank you all in advance for all the help I know you all will give me. :)

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I find pure water is fine, and have never needed other additives for basic layering. 50/50 is too much for most applications; I usually use maybe 1 drop of water for every three equally-sized drops of paint. When I do washes, I just thin with water until I get the consistency I need, but I'll often add a drop or two of RMS Brush-On Sealer, which I find helps it settle into cracks better.

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Just water. For starters mix formulas help out, but really it depends on the pigments used, some need more thinning, some less. It's just about getting the proper consistency for whatever application (base/layer/wash/glaze in order from thick to thin). Generally better to err on the side of thin and use multiple layers than to go too thick and obscure detail.

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Reaper paints are designed to work well when thinned, and you should be able to thin them down far more than 50/50 without problems. (They work well for glazes and washes, which might be as thin as 10 drops of water to one drop of paint.) There are various products you can use that might help a little with one thing or another, but when starting out, there's no need to get too concerned about anything but water.


What do you mean by the pigment doesn't stick together? Is it separating out of the liquid? That happens occasionally (or almost always with metallic colours), but is not something I'd expect that you'd be seeing in a lot of Reaper colours. If you have only tried with one or two colours, try with another colour and see if you find the same thing happening. Also, are you shaking the paint? You don't have to go nuts shaking Reaper paints most of the time, but a shake before starting to use is good, and if you haven't used paints for a long time, giving them a good shake is required.


Or do you more mean that the paint looks patchy and see through when you apply it to the figure. Thinning paint does also make it more transparent. Which is what you need to do to use techniques like layering and glazing. But for basecoats, you only need to thin the paint enough that you're not creating texture on the figure when you paint it on. (So if you see brushstrokes when you paint it on, it's too thick.) I wrote out some guidelines to judging dilutions for various purposes here:


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If your paints are sitting for an extended period of time between uses, they will settle, and will require significant agitation.  If they are old, you may also need to replace some of the water that has been lost due to evaporation.  A couple drops of distilled water and a lot of shaking will get them right back into fighting shape.


Question 1:  Are you shaking your paints before you start until you feel like your arm is about to fall off?



Shake them for 5 more minutes.



Shake them until your arm is about to fall off.  Return to Question 1.

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For what its worth, I also thin my paints with just tap water.  In terms of how much, it really depends on the colour and also what I'm trying to do.


For basecoats with "bright" colours (like red and yellow), I tend to thin at a ratio of 1 drop of water for 2 drops of paint.  The first layer is still splotchy but two layers at this ratio seems to sort out the splotchiness.  


For basecoats with darker colours, I sometimes thin a bit more - either at a ratio of 1:1 or keeping the ratio as above but mixing with a brush loaded with water.  Again, two layers sorts out any splotchiness from the first layer.  No real basis for deciding which ratio other than eyeballing the paint to see how thick it looks before I add the water.

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