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Side/over brushing


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I don't always use the tip of my brush for painting. Sometimes I use the side.

 

If I want to get a very small amount of color on a small piece that's raised on the surface of the mini, I'll stroke it with the side of the brush bristles. This is especially effective for adding metallics on things like buckles and such.

 

Sort of like drybrushing, but there is usually more paint in the brush and I use the side of the brush insteadof the tip.

 

I also do this with a Cat's tounge to get the raised areas with broad color, like adding highlights to hair. Hold the brush nearly horizontal to the surface of the mini, and stroke gently. Does anyone else do this?

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Hmm, interesting.

 

I've done some things like this but have a question: how much do you thin that paint for this technique? I've noticed that drybrushing works better when the paint is straight out of the bottle, and have tried doing things like this over brushing and had the paint run everywhere. So my question is, I guess, do you depend on thickness for the paint not to run, or do you just make sure the brush is not overloaded?

 

Michael

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Hmm, interesting.

 

I've done some things like this but have a question: how much do you thin that paint for this technique? I've noticed that drybrushing works better when the paint is straight out of the bottle, and have tried doing things like this over brushing and had the paint run everywhere. So my question is, I guess, do you depend on thickness for the paint not to run, or do you just make sure the brush is not overloaded?

 

Michael

Well, this is a reason I prefer doing it with a flat brush. It seems easier to keep the paint where I want it, as long as I use light strokes and give the brush a light wipe across a napkin or cloth first to lessen the amount of paint on the brush. It took some practice to get the brush control, but I do this for hair, fur, and even woodgrains and get a much cleaner look than drybrushing could give. I still go back to a fine detail brush for the final highlights though.

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Good technique (especially for hair) but I prefer to use flat brushes for this - they are pretty cheap at Michael's and I get good life out of them since I don't use them as heavily.

A Cat's Tounge is sort of a flat brush, but it has a rounded tip instead of straight. Gives more control when used. It works really well for basecoating as well as overbrushing, because the semi-point lets you get into nooks and cranies, and paint against edges that wouldn't work as well with a flat.

 

Brights kind of work like in between a cat's tounge and a flat. Brights have a flat shape but shorter bristles, giving greater control.

 

As far as the amount of paint and consistancy, it's kind of yes to both. You don't want your paint too thin, and you don't want too much on it, either. A little more than drybrushing, but less than for basecoating.

 

Consistancy is kind of between right-out-of-the-bottle and thinned enough for basecoating. If it seems too runny, let it sit on your pallet for a little while, mix well and try again. The paint that wouldn't do what you wanted may work better after it "rests".

 

The big thing here is just to practice. You will get a feel for how to load your brush, what consistancy to use, how best to stroke it on, etc., as you do it. Hey, anything worth doing is worth screwing up a few times until you can get it right. ::D:

 

Oh, and Damon: Brush lickers, indeed. What, the chemicals going to your head? ::P:

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A Cat's Tounge is sort of a flat brush, but it has a rounded tip instead of straight. Gives more control when used. It works really well for basecoating as well as overbrushing, because the semi-point lets you get into nooks and cranies, and paint against edges that wouldn't work as well with a flat.

If you go looking for these another name for them is "Filbert," these and angle shaders are very possibly my favorite "hard to find one I like" brushes.

 

I still want to find a filbert and an angle shader in kolinsky sable. I'm reaching a point of considering a few custom brushes straight from one of the companies ($ :blink::wacko: )

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Good technique (especially for hair) but I prefer to use flat brushes for this - they are pretty cheap at Michael's and I get good life out of them since I don't use them as heavily.

A Cat's Tounge is sort of a flat brush, but it has a rounded tip instead of straight. Gives more control when used. It works really well for basecoating as well as overbrushing, because the semi-point lets you get into nooks and cranies, and paint against edges that wouldn't work as well with a flat.

 

Brights kind of work like in between a cat's tounge and a flat. Brights have a flat shape but shorter bristles, giving greater control.

 

As far as the amount of paint and consistancy, it's kind of yes to both. You don't want your paint too thin, and you don't want too much on it, either. A little more than drybrushing, but less than for basecoating.

 

Consistancy is kind of between right-out-of-the-bottle and thinned enough for basecoating. If it seems too runny, let it sit on your pallet for a little while, mix well and try again. The paint that wouldn't do what you wanted may work better after it "rests".

 

The big thing here is just to practice. You will get a feel for how to load your brush, what consistancy to use, how best to stroke it on, etc., as you do it. Hey, anything worth doing is worth screwing up a few times until you can get it right. ::D:

 

Oh, and Damon: Brush lickers, indeed. What, the chemicals going to your head? ::P:

Shorter bristles sounds good - better control for this technique. Looks like I will be at Michael's after work today! ::D:

Thanks for the info!

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