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14086 Great Eagle + 77208 Anwyn - Iron Kingdoms Conversions

Jordan Peacock

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Beautiful! Good work on the feathers. Anwyn is one of my favorite bards.


This is one of those wonderful sculpts where the sculptor has practically done all the work for me: The feather "detail" is just a couple of base-coat sprays of white, then a thick wash of Apple Barrel "Denim Blue" (cool gray) craft acrylic paint, and then (after drying of course) dry-brushing with Apple Barrel "Snowflake White" acrylic paint (a fairly thick acrylic craft paint that works well for dry-brushing).  The only blending I had to do was in the detail work for the talons, eyes, and beak.

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Awesome, and I didn't realize how big that eagle was ...now I want one too!


That's a 50mm diameter base in the picture for the Great Eagle, and a 30mm diameter base for Anwyn.  I think the wing span is somewhere in the neighborhood of 10" from wingtip to wingtip.  When I get home, I'll have to measure it and see how close my eyeball estimate is.


EDIT: It's actually just shy of 8".  Oops.  So much for eyeballing it.

Edited by Jordan Peacock
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Okay, somehow the view in the picture seems to be slightly different than my viewfinder.  Is that even possible with a digital camera?  Anyway, the wingspan of the Giant Eagle mini is close to somewhere between 7 3/4" and 7 7/8" (although the angling of this photo makes it appear to be smaller than that), despite my early eyeballing estimate of 10".


("It was THIS big!  {holds hands apart}  And it got away!")




The other thing of interest to me is that this is a picture of the Great Eagle after I applied some matte sealer.  I normally use Krylon spray-on non-yellowing matte acrylic (Oh how it pains me, all my old Warzone minis that I clear-coated with Wal-Mart store brand spray paint -- all that white gone YELLOW!) but the "matte" nonetheless has a noticeable shine that the camera picks up -- so I generally try to get all my shots of a finished mini in BEFORE I apply any clear coat.


Another problem is that I've been holding off on clear-coating my Bones minis, because sometimes they come out tacky-feeling.  I've had the same problem with some (but not all?!?) of the Super Dungeon Explore minis I painted for a friend of mine.  (The original core board game pieces and the lava-themed add-ons worked fine.  Nyan-Nyan and some other of the special "mini boss" figures ended up with sticky-figure syndrome something awful.)




I remember being told that if I want to base-coat "bendy" plastics, I should use a brush-on primer, as it's generally the propellant that does whatever bad mojo it does to the plastic to give it that tacky effect regardless of how many insulating layers of acrylic paint get added on.  Well, I thought I'd see if that extends to brush-on clear coat as well.


So far, so good.  In the last picture, the clear coat on Anwyn is still wet and it's not even half bad.  In the above picture of the Great Eagle, I slathered on enough of the matte sealer so I could actually pick the thing up without wearing high points of white acrylic off the feathers (which would happen SOMEWHERE with even a careful, light handling, never fail, pre-sealer).  It works!  But importantly for my tendency to take lots of pictures of my minis to post on the virtual fridge door, it doesn't look shiny on the figure itself.  Now, it DOES look a bit shiny on the base, where I suppose enough of it just accumulated from run-off from the figure, and on the relatively flat surface (and then especially in any recesses) it could pool up to sufficient thickness to get shiny.


I don't have as much problem with paint wearing off my Reaper Bones models as I do with metals, but after this experiment I think I'll be going back to give them some matte coats regardless.

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So!  I finally got a chance to use the big birdy in an adventure as a special encounter atop a ruined castle tower.  (Its special attack: swooping in and grabbing whoever stuck his or her head up first, then dropping victim in the lake at the bottom of the tower, in a GM-hand-wavy-and-maybe-just-a-bit-silly interpretation of the grab-and-throw power attack rules.  And then, rather than killing the thing or letting it simply get away, one of the PCs did a crazy leap-of-faith off the tower onto the bird's back, knocked it out, then crash-landed with it into the lake, heroically saved it from drowning (being the only PC in the group who could actually swim worth anything), and then saved it for warbeast-training ... so it looks like it's going to be around for a while.


The problem is that I've discovered that the figure sags under its own weight.  It's sculpted to have a dramatic pose, as if it's sweeping in with talons open to snatch up some unlucky victim, with just the tip of its tail fan connecting to a tab to fit into the base.  The trouble is that, once assembled, it slowly bends at that point.  I've tried balancing it, but too far back and it won't stand up properly, the way I attached it to the base; the slightest amount forward, and if I come back in a couple of days, it has fallen forward on its face.  Sure, I could just keep the thing packed away in a foam-packed APC box, and straighten it out when needed, but I figured I needed another solution.




So, after that long prelude ... I just took some putty and made a "rock" on the base.  I textured it with a gratuitous sigil on the front in an attempt to give a suggestion of the sorts of engraved rocks associated with Circle Orboros.  


I actually did some quick putty work at the start of the game session, after straightening it out the first time.  The bending action was slow enough that the putty was able to cure while it was still upright, and it was still upright as of this morning, so I'll take that as a good sign.  I didn't go back to paint it until early this morning.  Also, the green paint I used is some sort of "neon" acrylic paint that ended up looking much brighter in the photo than it did to the naked eye.  I'm not sure how that works.

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