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Right, so this is probably a stupid question, but I'm gonna ask it anyways, because, well, I'm uncertain.
So a week ago, I purchased the D&D/Army Painter Monster Paint Set. Fantastic set, contains more paints than I'll need ever for a decade for a year for an undetermined period of time.
Anyways, this set came with three washes - Shadow Wash, Flesh Wash, and Brown Wash. As recommended by several other painters on a different post, I decided I'd use these premade washes rather than the thinned-down paint I had been using in the past. However...
I doubted, and now I'm uncertain. After a quick google search, I'm even more confused as I saw contradictory answers, and answers that weren't really answers. I know I'm being irrational, but do you use these the same way as thinned-down paint (applying to the miniature after it's been basecoated?), or do you use it some other way?
Again, stupid question, but as they say, it's better to be safe than sorry. Thanks!
Does anyone know when these will hit retail? We've seen quite a bit of bones 4, but not the weapon sprues from 3, and as someone who has party members with unique characters, the conversion potential there is great.
Secondary question, do you think we will get stuff like the deadlands weapon sprue in bones soon/ever?
Good day everyone, I've been working on a diorama display for some time now and I thought some of you may like the see my progress. I used AutoCad for my sketches and Inventor to build the 3D model. Then I used Blender to texture the model and Slicer to generate de code for my Prusa printer. The following pictures are the steps I went through so far. It’s my first big project. It's taking long but it's a learning experience. Let me know what you think about it so far.
The first image is a screenshot of the final model in Inventor.
Some sketches in AutoCad software.
Floor part in Invetor software.
Generating the code of the floor in Prusa Slicer software.
I got a printing error while printing the floor. The plastic filament and I had to stop the print.
On the next picture, we can see how the parts are on the inside. There is some supports but most of the part is empty to save on printing time and material.
I decided to print the remining floor tiles individually to salvage what I had already been printing. I then glued each tile on the base.
I had another printing error on the column, and I had the print another one.
The column was printed at the highest level of quality my Prusa i3 MK3S can print, which is at a 0.05mm of precision.
The arch was also printed at 0.05mm.
The level of detail is amazing. Even the ring was printed flawlessly without support.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly after I completed texturing it in Blender.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly in Slicer. I generated the code with supports to make sure the door arch would be print perfectly.
It looks perfect like this, so I didn’t see a problem coming.
Some parts of mu model were not right, there were some gaps. The software filled these gaps with support material, so when I see the issue, I decided not to stop the printing session. The support material is showing in drak green the the simulation.
After, when I generated the code without support, I could clearly see the gaps. I think this happened because there were errors, holes I didn’t correct or masking I didn’t remove, on the model I imported from Blender. I will need to investigate farther.
See the result after I removed all the support. Removing the support takes forever by the way. I’ll try to avoid supports if possible, in the future.
Here’s a picture of the wall. It took 40 hours to print only and probably another 40 hours to build, texture and clean the model. I still need to fill the gaps the Greenstuff.
Here are all the parts I printed for this project.
And, all the parts together. I haven’t glue anything yet. There is still some sanding and cleaning to do. I will paint each part separately.
I patched the gaps with liquid Green Stuff.
Closeup of the first layer of liquid Green Stuff.
I converted a 02712 Eye Best from Reaper Miniatures. This is the pewter version of model that was sculpted by Julie Guthrie. I added eye stalks from the 03440 Creature Components II, also from Reaper.
The Eye Best will be pinned on the wall and the door. All the adventurers I'll be displaying on the diorama are from Reaper Miniatures Dungeon Dwellers brand. From left to right; 07012 Caerindra Thistlemoor, 07004 Stitch Thimbletoe, 07002 Baran Blacktree and 07008 Luwin Phost.
The models can be moved from a recess to another to allow different layouts.
More to come soon!
My name is Dom and I'm new to the world of minis. I started fiddling away with Procreate in the fall of 2017, trying to make some minis for a D&D campaign I play in. I roughed out two ghoulish-looking figures (which weren't supposed to be ghouls), grew pretty frustrated with it, and shelved the whole business for 2018. I decided to give it another go in January, and started another five for a new D&D campaign. Progress was slow but better than the first go-round, and spurred on by an opportunity to apply for a mini design talent program with a large company, I finally finished my first two minis last week!
My photographs highlighted plenty of issues I wish I'd had time to address, but the deadline for the application was upon me.
They're mottled because I was trying out different mixtures of putties, trying to figure out what suits my purposes best. I have a good bit of sculpting experience from a former job (not at this small scale) and am more used to an add-then-refine method, rather than having to get it just-so because the materials don't like being sanded or carved. Once I got some Aves Apoxie Sculpt, I became much more hopeful.
Here's Aldin Peaksplitter, a Dwarven battlerager who doesn't wear armor and likes to fight hand-to-hand, and Albrecht Glasser, a human divination wizard who masquerades as a fortune teller.
The funny bit between Aldin's left thigh and elbow is just a vent for casting purposes. I did make a mold of him because I wanted to submit photos of nice primed castings, but it hit a snag and I didn't have time to redo it before the deadline. With Albrecht you can see some copper armature in places - I thought I'd found a good way to negate some of my Procreate frustrations in the armature phase, but it went awry. Once I learned of the program I wanted to apply for, he was too far along to start over, so I made do.
I'd love to hear your thoughts.
Edit: These are 28mm or about 1/60 scale, based on the character's height. Aldin would be about 25mm tall if standing erect (he's a tall Dwarf), and Albrecht about 30mm.
Good morning guys!
Q: if buying one of the reaper core sets (108 bottle set), what's the main difference in them?
I'm looking into buying a complete paint set. I've been doing a ton of research and have settled on a reaper core set (i already own several reaper paints and love them). I know that everyone suggests a blend of several companies based on which has the best, e.g. yellow, or metallics. I just want to make it simple, buy a set and build from there.
I'll mostly be painting 40k and privateer press models with some terrain and 3d prints mixed in (i have a cheapo set of acrylics from Michael's for large terrain and 3d prints).
I've also considered the Vallejo Model set, and Army Painter Mega Set.
Thanks in advance!
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