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I just finished a custom base for my toothy Reaper Miniatures 02712, Eyebeast. This model was sculpted by Julie Guthrie. It is also part of the 10031, Dungeon Horrors Box Set. I added two eyestalks on its head. The eyestalks are from Reaper Miniatures 03440, Creature Components II.
I used Blister Packaging Plastic and Mod Podge to create the saliva dripping from its maw and realistic water effect on the base. I also added the bull skull and skeleton parts and sculpted mushrooms in greenstuff to complete the set.
Comments are very welcome.
Here's a finished Azura Halfblood, from Hasslefree, on a base from Micro Arts Studio.
First, the base. I took separate pics of it before attaching and painting the mini.
This was my first experiment with Realistic Water. I used a piece of blister pack and some scotch tape to form a cylinder around the base, then put in 5 layers of Realistic Water whisked gently with a teeny bit of Formula P3 Wurm Green for murk. That stuff takes aaaages to dry! Anyway, when it was all done I pulled off the blister pack (gently), and then trimmed the meniscus that had formed with a pair of small nail scissors. You can see the slightly beveled edge on the effect where that got trimmed.
Then the mini itself. All pics linked for nudity, except for number 3 in which her back is turned to the camera.
Azura Halfblood front
Azura Halfblood left quarter profile
Azura Halfblood right profile
Azura Halfblood right quarter profile
As usual, the camera has revealed every tiny flaw. Sigh.
Also, the pics don't show her eyes well AT ALL. I painted them a bright solid teal-ish color, and used the same in the eye sockets of the skull in her hand. It's supposed to look like she's powering up to blast somebody with a beam of unholy power pouring forth from the skull's eyes in a wave of necrotic vileness. But my phone's camera didn't pick up the color very well.
On a side note, I have now finished all of the nekkid minis I got from Hasslefree. They were good for practicing skin tones. But I'll be happy to go back to painting clothed people now.
After a lot of work and patience ... not to mention delays for surgery and rehab ... I present to you:
The Old Way
A diorama display base made from a cork mat (coaster, under plants, hot pad).
If you followed the WIP then you know the story behind the piece but here's a revised summary ...
"The Old Way â€¦ that road found in post-apocalyptic, fantasy societies that the current society has no clue how they made it. Once the road way in this piece was created by such builders that it lasted for millennia. At least until the water changed course and eroded the road bed and shifted the land. Now there are only small reminders of the once great society in a wondrous slice of creek bed."
And a recap of what went into it ...
The foundation are two cork rounds atop MDF. The land is made with more cork added to create the higher points. Ground red foam foliage surrounds a sculpted tree stump. A small pool of water sits atop the small hillock jutting into the creek. Flagstone pavers still remain clustered together for strength showing the shards of the Old Way. The creek bed is made from actual sand and the flora and moss in the water is more ground foam. Realistic Water covers the creek bed and pool of water.
Now for photos ...
Top views ...
Close ups of the creek bed ...
As always I appreciate any comments or suggestions and would be happy to answer any questions regarding the piece.
I was hoping to get everyone's solution for using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water product on your bases. More importantly, I'm hoping to find information about how to keep Realistic Water on a non-recessed base!
So what's your secret to keeping the product on there while not getting a funky concave edge or bulges? Or on a round base?
Thanks in advance for your help!
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