Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Gotta love the weekend. Time to get caught up on some minis!
This particular mini is sentimental to me. I had picked them up back in 1990 when I was just finding my way with painting. Sadly, it would only be a few years before I found sports and other things to occupy my time and left the hobby for 30 years.
30 years later, though I'm rearing to go! My parents send these minis to me that they found at the old house and I happily take them. A few were somewhat painted and a few were only primed. This is one that was somewhat painted, but nothing I felt reluctant about stripping. That said, let's get to the painting!
* Stripped this metal model right down to the bare metal with the ol LA Cleaner. Holy smokes - that stuff eats paint like a champ. Leave it in there for a few days and it is practically falling off. Major win to discover this very inexpensive and effective method.
* Primed this model with Stynylrez Black and zenithal with DR White ink. Worked out well, but still have some learning to do with the new airbrush (Badger 105)
* The primer and ink dries quickly allowing for work immediately after priming. Yay!
* Once again learning my new training gained from RVE with using white, I figure this tunic would be perfect for a Paladin. Using dark grey, then mid grey, and finally light grey to a white highlight. It worked great and looks believable. However, there is still a bit more blending I could learn going from dark to light. For this being the 2nd one to test this method on only hours within learning it - Win!
* Tested a gradient on the sword. Since my confidence was high and I was feeling saucy, I wanted to give a gradient a test. I've often wanted to try doing something else with metal, but this seemed like a nice one to try. I think the dark to light worked well on the blades. This is only the first of many steps to getting to NMM, but it's a good start.
* Used a aluminum color for the chain mail, then shaded it with GW Drakenshade. I kind of like the blue tint and nice use of it being like a 'blue steel' look. Dig.
* Going light on metals was definitely the way to go.
* Face still feels a little weak. Used a Flat Flesh up to Pale Skin with two gradients in between. It still feels spotty.
* With the lips I tried adding some warmth to them with a light red glaze. Meh...
* Swords and dagger after I did them, I realized don't have the same direction in their gradient. It's a small thing, but once I spotted it, Ican't take my eyes off of it. Minor detail, but sucks that I didn't catch it earlier.
* I am not super happy with the boots/gloves leather . I feel like Ishould have gone with a different leather color. Not bad, just not great.
* The gold coloring on the moons was added after. I originally had them as a silver color, but it didn't look as good on the skin in silver. So I swapped the circlet to gold . In doing that Ichanged them all and am not as happy with the gold. May change back.
This was a really fun one to do. It's a bit smaller than the other minis because of the older style, but what a trip down memory road to paint it.
Any thoughts? Any feedback. Let me have it!
A few weeks ago I posted my Paladin (Essach Stonebreaker) converted from a bones Duke Gerard miniature. This is that same character, but advanced to more heroic levels (we'll see if he actually lives that long in this campaign lol).
Presenting Duke Gerard in metal, converted to hold a mace / morningstar / scepter from the "Good" weapons pack from Bones III.
Like: First attempt doing anything like the landscape on the shield. Generally good depth of color. Got the face much, much better than on the plastic version (part of that is thanks to the sculpt though...better detail). Better management of blonde hair on a pale face, which is tough since that risks being very low-contrast (and by proxy, low-interest). Better at abutting color - I'm still too reliant on black lining for my line work, which leads to deep shadowing...not always a great look.
Needs work: Smooth lines, patience...I'm not painting at tabletop speed or anything, but I'm probably still working too quickly to accomplish show-worthy painting. Looks great at arms length, but I can notice the hell out of flaws, lumps, and bumps as I get closer.
Still, it's a step forward for me. Additionally, I finally got a light box so I can improve the pictures just a wee bit! In fact, the little white flecks on the substrate are from a previous mini photo shoot ( a white dragon, which I will post later). My next goals are 1: to get better at slowing down and smoothing out my lines and 2: to work on my mini photography.
Anyhoo: here's Duke Gerard, converted into my 5e Paladin of Lathander, Essach Stonebreaker!
Duke Gerard converted into my current D&D 5e character (a paladin of Lathander). Generally happy, except for the face AND ALSO the highlighting on the shield came out too sharp on the black portion. Will probably go back over it. The head sculpt is...well...shallow detail and an offset cast. I did what I could with it. Also put a little too much trust in the "fair skin" triad...low-contrast compared to other triads. Had to go back with a flesh wash, repaint...got a little lumpy.
The rose-hewed cloak is for Lathander. The red-black-gold shield is his family crest. Clipped off his sword and replaced with a mace from the weapons pack.
100% reaper paints including the steel triad, fair skin triad, gold triad, dragon red & flesh blood. Black wash on the armor, sepia wash on the gold accents. Hair is buckskin pale over leather brown. Rose color is a combination of dragon red and khaki highlight.
This represents the character at level 5 or so. Hoping he survives to 10, because I'm painting Duke Gerard in metal to represent a more advanced version of this character.