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I really have far too many miniatures. At least 20, and with a further 20 inbound from the 20 kickstarters I have backed the last few years. So for 2016 I will try to crank out those minis at an elevated pace, and chalk up an even 366 -one for each day - finished by the end of the year.


 


Of course, this means that to avoid spamming the excellent Reaper forums with samey, production-line dross nobody really wants to see, I will not be posting each and every one done here even though the rpchallenge says I should.


 


Instead I will post Reaper minis and maybe some other that I find interesting enough. The rest will get pictures linked to the rpchallenge monthly post for anybody who might be interested.


--


 


One of the far too many kickstarters I have been suckered into spending far too much money on, is Dungeon Saga by Mantic Games.


A fresh take on the classic HeroQuest game with a small dash of Dungeons and Dragons. Simplistic rules with straight forward gameplay, easy enough to game with the kids. Hopefully not too boring to play with other grownups.


As I usually don't enjoy painting heroes all that much, I decided to just start with them before any fatigue sets in. That way I might actually finish the set without too much ado.


Here are the first basic heroes, your typical archetypes as prescribed by HeroQuest: Dwarf, Wizard, Elf, Barbarian.


 


160307-mantic-dungeon-saga-orlaf-human-b


Orlaf the Human Barbarian


 


160307-mantic-dungeon-saga-madriga-elf-r


Madriga the Elf Ranger


 


160307-mantic-dungeon-saga-rordin-dwarf-


Rordin the Dwarf Fighter


 


160307-mantic-dungeon-saga-danor-human-w


Danor the Human Wizard


 


The Dungeon Saga minis are made in a newish PVC material similar to the rigid Bones PVC, only even harder and not rubbery at all. The two exceptions are the Dragon that is more rubbery and slightly bendy (when using force), and the KS exclusive not-Drizzt that is made in "premium resin".


I am glad to see that big strides are being made in miniature materials and production technology. However, I see online that many have taken issue with the material these minis are made in.


Frankly, I do not see the problem. This material is perfectly fine for this kind of mini. Yes, there are bent minis in the box, but this also goes for almost every other miniature out there that is not polystyrene HIPS. The details are fine (better than in similarily sized Bones), but not quite as sharp as a resin mini. But then what can you expect at that price point?


Straightening or repositioning the bent bits is a simple matter of dipping in hot water to make it soft and pliable, straightening and then dipping in cold water, just like Bones, and restic.


The material is rigid and primes up and takes paint well and when painted the minis look excellent. The plastic is quite hard and damage resistant. The moldlines are present, but not even close to as much work to remove as with Restic or Bones.


All in all, I like it.


 


 


Heroes from the Dungeon Saga game set


Mantic Games


Rigid PVC


25mm bases.


 

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Very nice minis. I like the dwarf a lot. I got the game for Christmas, but haven't gotten around to actually cleaning or painting yet.

 

A question for you: several of my minis came bent at the ankles, and need repositioned. I know about using hot water to fix this, but since the bases come attached to the minis already I was worried that putting them in the hot water base/feet first might warp the base too (I am assuming the base is made of the same plastic as the mini). Did you have any problems with the base warping from hot water? I tried removing the base, but they glued those suckers on good; if I can avoid it, I'd like to not have to go to all the effort of using Super Clean to dissolve the glue. Really looking to avoid unnecessary work, if you wouldn't mind sharing your experiences?

 

Again, looking good, thanks for sharing.

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Very nice minis. I like the dwarf a lot. I got the game for Christmas, but haven't gotten around to actually cleaning or painting yet.

 

A question for you: several of my minis came bent at the ankles, and need repositioned. I know about using hot water to fix this, but since the bases come attached to the minis already I was worried that putting them in the hot water base/feet first might warp the base too (I am assuming the base is made of the same plastic as the mini). Did you have any problems with the base warping from hot water? I tried removing the base, but they glued those suckers on good; if I can avoid it, I'd like to not have to go to all the effort of using Super Clean to dissolve the glue. Really looking to avoid unnecessary work, if you wouldn't mind sharing your experiences?

 

Again, looking good, thanks for sharing.

 

 

 

I use water that is recently boiled, but not actually boiling, a pot, and a fork to fish the minis out. During the course of a session with many minis, I had to replace/reheat the water several times as it cooled. I think you need a temperature above 80-90 degrees celsius for the trick to work properly. Also have a pot of as icy cold water as you can manage ready. When the part is hot, dunking in cold water will set the plastic in its new shape. You need to "shock" the part or else it might gradually bend back (has happened a lot with more bendy plastics such as Bones). The longer it is kept in the hot water, the more floppy the part gets, but also makes the change more permanent when you reposition the part and hold it in the cold water.

 

when just straightening a weapon or adjusting an arm, I hold the mini with just the offending part (+ a few millimeters) in the water. But in many cases I dropped the entire figures with bases in the near-boiling water and let them soak from about 30secs to several minutes, depending on the thickness of the parts that needed bending. (I also repositioned thick troll arms and such using this technique).

 

I never had any issues with these bases warping at all. The thing is that the first thing that happens when heated is that the plastic regains its "original shape", which is why swords and such seem to straighten themselves in hot water. For the parts to warp any more, they need to either be subjected to some sort of force, or long enough in the heat that the bit goes completely floppy like boiled spaghetti. In which case you weill need to hold the bit in position when dunking in cold water.

 

I would speculate that the actual bending in the bent minis occurs immediately after the moulding process (or even when pulled from the mould) when the minis still are hot. (as the minis usually would have lighter stress marks in the plastic if bent when cold. These marks do not occur if bent when hot), But I digress.

 

The only base there I had any issue with was the dragons' base, that was warped slightly when it arrived, and it straightened out in hot water using the following technique:

 

To make a slightly warped base perfectly flat:

If any of them are bent or do warp in the hot water: when hot, hold them firmly down against the flat bottom of the empty pot you use to hold the cold water in, and pour cold water into the pot. (if you have the cold water in the pot beforehand, the base will cool and harden as soon as it hits the water, before you reach the bottom, and probably still will be somewhat warped and you have to start over.

 

The hot water technique also applies to Restic (such as earlier mantic, wrath of kings, privateer press), most kinds of the "rubbery" plastic used for minis (such as Bones, Mars Attacks!, Zombiecide and Blood Rage minis), and some (but not all) types of resin, I have not actually tried with HIPS plastic, but I suspect it would need significantly hotter water to become bendy.

 

also make sure to wash the pot and other utensils really well after use, especially if you are going to cook food with them at a later date. Just in case,

Edited by Maledrakh
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